When a baby rabbit comes into your life, it’s an exciting time. You may hear the sound of tiny paws. But what do you feed a baby rabbit? What’s the best diet for a baby rabbit? How much should you feed your baby rabbit? This article delves into the dietary needs of wild rabbits at every stage of life, from newborns to adults, and what to feed orphaned bunnies.
Bunny Basics: Kittens, Bunnies, and Rabbits
First, let's clear up a common misconception. Baby rabbits are called kittens, not bunnies. A bunny is a young rabbit, just like a baby is a human.
The First Few Weeks: Mother's Milk
When a baby rabbit is born, it will first feed on its mother’s milk. This is why you should not get your rabbit from its mother before a minimum of 8 weeks has passed. During the first few days, the milk contains high levels of antibodies that help protect the kit from disease.
Transition to Solid Foods: Hay, Greens, and Pellets
From around 2-3 weeks old, baby bunnies start to nibble at the hay around the nest, and at around 6 weeks, baby rabbits start to rely more heavily on hay. As with all young animals, baby bunnies will be very sensitive to change.
It is a good idea to know in advance exactly what food your baby rabbit has been eating so you can get a supply ready for them in their new home. This will help ease the transition and make your bunny feel more at home.
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Identifying Abandoned Nests
It is not always easy to know if a nest of baby rabbits has been abandoned. Wild rabbits can survive on their own after 3-weeks, so even though they look small, they may be completely healthy and not orphaned. If you hang around a nest and move things around, you are more likely to make the Mother abandon the nest, as she feels it is no longer safe.
Convinced the rabbit's nest is abandoned? Then you can do a simple test. Leave a piece of natural string or fiber over the nest, so that if the Mother returns in the night (which she definitely would) she will disturb it. When you check again in the morning, if it is where you left it, then chances are the nest has been abandoned.
Feeding Young Bunnies
A young rabbit will need lots of good food to help it grow strong and healthy. In the wild, they will eat a variety of grasses and succulents.
Alfalfa Hay
Alfalfa Hay is ideal for a growing bunny as it is rich in protein and calcium and tastes great. They will eat this happily and voraciously. Alfalfa hay should be available to your growing bunny every day. Give a chunk of hay roughly the same size as your bunny.
Pellets
You can also give your bunny an egg cup full of pellets once a day whilst they are growing. These are usually alfalfa-based pellets (not containing extra seeds or anything else).
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Green Leaves
The other food source to slowly introduce is green leaves. Green leaves to try: Basil, broccoli leaves, butter lettuce, cabbage, dandelion greens, dill, kale, mint, oregano, parsley, spinach, watercress, rosemary, carrot tops and others.
Transitioning to Adulthood: Adjusting the Diet
Baby rabbits will start to nibble on hay after a few weeks and then should be moved to a diet full of hay after they are weaned from their mother’s milk. Alfalfa hay is ideal hay for baby bunnies as it is richer in calcium (which helps their bones grow strong) and protein which gives them the energy they need to grow up healthily. Alfalfa hay also tastes good to a baby bunny. This is also its downfall.
As your bunny gets bigger and enters adulthood, everything that makes alfalfa hay good for them as a baby is bad for them as an adult. Too much calcium will cause bladder issues and too much protein will make them overweight. Timothy hay and Meadow hay or another adult type of hay have less calcium and protein, so is much healthier for your bunny.
The trick is to move your young rabbit over to Timothy Hay without them missing Alfalfa hay too much. To do this takes time but is essential.
The Role of Pellets
A baby rabbit will love eating pellets and giving them an unending supply will create problems with their diet. A quality hay diet like the Timothy Hay mixed with alfalfa hay whilst they are young is the best for your rabbit, with pellets added for extra nutrients. A baby rabbit will usually only have an egg cup full of pellets when young, with this only increasing a little as they get bigger. Moving a rabbit onto hay as soon as possible is more natural and will help with their teeth health. You should swap out your pellets daily, so they always have a fresh supply.
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Introducing Fresh Foods
Around 3-months is a good time to introduce fresh foods to your rabbit. Ideally, you should introduce fresh food to a rabbit one at a time. Leafy greens are an excellent fresh food to give a baby rabbit.
Giving a baby rabbit fruit is a little trickier. Fresh fruit often contains too much sugar for a baby rabbit, so should only be offered as a treat once a week.
Baby rabbits can usually eat grass after about 8-weeks. They’ll probably pick at grass or hay whilst still feeding on their Mother's milk and will transition across to hay completely at around 8-weeks.
Hydration
Baby rabbits are getting milk from their mother, but at around 3-4 weeks old, they will start to drink small amounts of water too. As they grow and their diet changes, so will their water intake. Hay is dry, so a rabbit eating hay will want more water than a rabbit eating fresh leafy greens.
As you should have picked up your bunny after it has weaned from its mother and not before 8-weeks old, your bunny will already be eating hay and pellets and fresh greens. A ball about the same size as your bunny is the right amount of hay each day.
A rabbit’s digestive system needs to work constantly to avoid health problems, so any interruption in eating habits needs addressing quickly. If your rabbit is eating a small amount, they may be bored, so you can try to tempt them with leafy greens and remove the pellets.
Transition to Adulthood
Rabbits grow fast to help them survive in the wild. The period a rabbit is a baby is short. After 3-weeks a wild rabbit will leave the nest, fend for itself and return at night. The transition into adulthood is quick, after 6-8 months they will be eating a quality Timothy Hay, Rye Grass or Meadow Hay. Rye would be the easiest transition as it is tasty so you will be able to wean them off the Alfalfa without too much problem.
The Wild Rabbit Diet: A Closer Look
Wild rabbits aren't picky eaters. Not only do they chow down on a variety of plants, but wild rabbits also love eating their own feces! Yep - it's true! But don't worry, this doesn't make them sick.
When it comes to plant-based diets for wild rabbits, there are several common foods that these floppy-eared critters like to gobble up. Clover, dandelions and grasses are some of the most popular leafy greens on the menu.
What Not to Feed Wild Rabbits
While store-bought rabbit food might be convenient, avoid feeding your furry friend anything with artificial preservatives or additives. These can cause your sweet bunny tummy upset!
Finally, never forget the importance of providing your furry friend with a steady source of water.
Dietary Habits Vary by Location
It's no secret that rabbits enjoy carrots, but did you know that their dietary habits actually differ depending on where they live? Rabbits living in urban or suburban areas tend to have more access to humans and human-provided food sources. On the other hand, rural rabbits have to get a little bit craftier with their meals as human-provided food sources are usually scarce.
Importance of Variety
The importance of variety in wild rabbit diets is a topic often overlooked, but it’s essential to their health and well-being. Wild rabbits are naturally drawn to grasses and other green vegetation, but they also love roots, flowers, clovers, fruits, fungi, nuts, seeds, bark and twigs.
Unfortunately, not all wild rabbits rely on such a diverse diet. Many are content with eating just one type of food - usually lawn grass - which can lead to serious nutritional deficiencies over time.
If wild rabbits don’t have access to a wide variety of food sources they won't get enough of the essential vitamins and minerals they need. This can lead to deficiencies that can have serious effects on their health over time; including weakened immune systems and reduced fertility rates.
Creating a Wild Rabbit Buffet in Your Backyard
With the right guidance and information, you can easily provide a nutritious diet for these little critters. Also make sure there is always fresh water available for them to stay hydrated.
If you want to really make your wild rabbit friends happy then why not try offering them dried fruits or veggies? Just remember - moderation is key!
While providing a nutritious diet is essential, having enough space for them is just as important. Because after all who doesn’t need room for all those crazy jumps and hops?
Common Questions
Do wild rabbits eat lettuce?
Wild rabbits will eat lettuce if they are near a garden that has lettuce heads.
Do rabbits eat apples?
Rabbits can eat apples without the core, but it is important to provide apples only as an occasional treat, because they can cause an upset stomach.
Do wild rabbits eat carrots?
Wild rabbits do not typically eat carrots because they would have to dig up this root vegetable, but they will eat the tops of carrots if they are nearby.
What to do if you find an orphaned bunny
Sometimes domestic or wild rabbits are truly orphaned. Remember that both the domestic pet rabbit and wild bunny moms only feed their young usually once in the middle of the night. Don’t assume the mom is not caring for them if you don’t see her nurse them. In the rare situation that you have an orphaned domestic bunny, such as when a domestic rabbit mom is sick or refuses to care for her young, you will need to feed the babies.
Start with a 3 cc/ml syringe or an eyedropper. Feed only with the bunny sitting upright. Point the syringe down towards the bottom or side of the mouth. In the rare situation that you have an orphaned bunny, such as when a domestic rabbit refuses to care for her young, you will need to feed the babies. Use KMR kitten or regular goat’s milk. An eye dropper or 3 cc syringe can be used to feed.
Domestic buns with closed eyes should be fed 2-3x/day (but only 2x/day for wild bunnies), and the number of feedings gradually decreased until they are weaned. If their eyes are still closed, you need to stimulate their bottoms with a warm moist towel after feedings to help them to pee. (Domestics are weaned about 6 weeks; wild bunnies are weaned about 3-4 weeks for cottontails and 7-9 weeks for jacks). Bloat is commonly associated with too frequent feedings.
For WILD rabbits, use KMR KITTEN formula- never puppy formula or Esbilac. If you can’t find it, use Regular Goats Milk (found in the carton at your grocery) or KMR, NOT Esbilac. Provide a soft nest area in a box with clean towels, and cover the babies so it is dark. Do not provide extra heat if the room temperature is at least 65 to 70o F because excessive heat can be fatal.
You can use KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer) available at most pet stores for the handfeeding formula. The following is a guideline for the daily amount to feed a wild bunny or a domestic bunny. Domestic buns with closed eyes should be fed 2-3x/day, (2x/day for wild bunnies), and the number of feedings gradually decreased until they are weaned. (Domestics are weaned about 6 weeks; wild bunnies are weaned about 3-4 weeks for cottontails, and 7-9 weeks for jack rabbits). Bloat is commonly associated with too frequent feedings.Wild bunnies should be fed kitten KMR or KMR and regular Goats Milk. Do not use Esbilac for wild rabbits. It is okay for domestics.
Rabbit Wt (gm) Av. Feedings/Day Av. Age Average Formula Intake
- Newborn up to 5cc KMR or goats milk (½ of this each feeding)
- 1-2 weeks to 10-15cc KMR or goats milk (½ of this each feeding) (depending on bunny..may be much less if smaller rabbit)
- 2-3 weeks to 26-30cc KMR or goats milk (½ of this each feeding)
Eyes open at about 10 days of age. If you have a healthy adult rabbit at home and you can collect cecotropes (the soft green droppings that the rabbit usually eats) then these can be mixed with the KMR to give the baby bunny normal bacteria for its intestinal tract. Only one cecotrope per day for 4-5 days is needed. This is particularly important for rabbits under one week of age.
After each feeding, for the first 10 days of life or until their eyes are open, it is important to gently make the bunny defecate and or urinate to keep the intestinal and urinary system running smoothly. Use a cotton ball moistened with warm water after eating, and gently stroke the anal area until the bunny starts producing stool and urine and keep stroking until the bunny stops. This stimulation is required for all domestic rabbits and wild cottontail or brush rabbit babies.
As soon as their eyes are open, you may introduce the bunnies to plain alfalfa pellets, alfalfa hay, oat hay, and timothy hay. As soon as the wild bunnies’ eyes are open, you may introduce them to plain alfalfa pellets, hay, such as oat hay, timothy, alfalfa and veggies such as carrot tops, Italian parsley, dandelion greens. Dandelion greens and hay (timothy and oat hay) are extremely important for wild rabbits. You can add whole oats from a feed store, and some grated carrots.
Wild rabbits should be released as soon as they are eating hay and greens and are approximately 5 inches in body length (cottontails). They will be small, but the longer you keep them, the more agitated and difficult to handle they will become and the less likely their chances for survival in the wild. Release ONLY at dusk or dawn. Jack rabbits will be much larger and are released after 9 weeks when ready.
Other Considerations
Can you keep a wild rabbit as a pet?
It is not recommended to keep a wild rabbit as a pet. Wild rabbits are not domesticated and may not be suitable for captivity. They have specific needs, behaviors, and dietary requirements that may not be met in a domestic setting. Additionally, it is illegal in many areas to capture or keep wild animals as pets.
How to keep rabbits out of a garden?
One way to keep rabbits out of a garden is to create a physical barrier, such as a fence, around the garden area. The fence should be at least 2 feet tall and buried at least 6 inches into the ground to prevent rabbits from digging under it. Another option is to use rabbit repellent sprays or granules, which emit a scent that rabbits find unpleasant.