Mystery snails ( Pomacea diffusa ) are a popular addition to freshwater aquariums, prized for their vibrant colors, active behavior, and ability to help keep tanks clean. These snails consume uneaten food, dead plant matter, and algae, contributing to a healthier aquarium environment. This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know about mystery snail care, diet, and breeding.
Identifying Mystery Snails
Mystery snails are easily recognizable by their large size and colorful, spiral shells. Unlike smaller aquarium snails like nerites, mystery snails can grow up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Their shells come in various colors, including golden yellow, blue, magenta, purple, ivory, chestnut brown, black, and jade green. The snail's foot, or body, can be either light or dark-colored.
Key features of mystery snails include:
- Rounded, spiral shell: Available in various colors.
- Long antennae: With eyes located at the base.
- Breathing siphon: A tube-like appendage used to breathe air from the water's surface.
- Operculum: A "shell door" used to seal themselves inside for protection
Taxonomy and Origin
Mystery snails are scientifically known as Pomacea diffusa. Previously, they were often misidentified as Pomacea bridgesii, but this has been corrected through scientific clarification. Despite the confusion, the name Pomacea bridgesii is still commonly used in the aquarium hobby.
These snails are native to South America and inhabit low-oxygen environments such as lakes and rivers. They have adapted to burrow in the mud as a survival mechanism, similar to crayfish. However, in some regions, such as the USA, particularly Florida, mystery snails are considered an invasive species. Aquarists must ensure that these snails do not end up in local waterways to prevent ecological damage.
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Aquarium Setup
Tank Size
Given their size and waste production, a minimum tank size of 10 gallons is recommended for one mystery snail. For each additional snail, add 2 gallons to the tank volume, assuming a lightly stocked aquarium.
Substrate
A sandy substrate is ideal for mystery snails, as it allows them to burrow, a natural behavior. The burrowing action helps prevent the substrate from becoming compacted.
Water Parameters
Mystery snails are not overly sensitive to water quality, but a fully cycled tank is essential. It is crucial to avoid overly soft or acidic water, as this can lead to shell degradation. To maintain proper water hardness, use crushed coral or shells in the tank, especially if your tap water is soft.
Ideal water parameters for mystery snails include:
- Temperature: 70-78°F (21-26°C)
- pH: Above 7.2
- GH: Above 150 ppm (8 dGH)
Tank Mates
Mystery snails are peaceful and can coexist with various tank mates. Avoid housing them with aggressive or boisterous fish that may nip at their antennae. Good tank mates include:
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- Peaceful community fish: That are compatible with higher pH and harder water.
- Shrimp: Such as Neocaridina and Caridina species.
Fish to avoid:
- Snail-eaters: Such as pufferfish, certain loaches, and turtles.
- Nippy fish: Such as Betta fish, which may harass the snails.
Plants
Mystery snails typically do not eat healthy, living plants. They primarily feed on dead or decaying plant matter. Live plants can be kept with mystery snails without concern, unless the snails are severely underfed.
Mystery Snail Diet
Mystery snails are primarily scavengers and herbivores, consuming a variety of foods in the aquarium. Their diet includes:
- Uneaten fish food: They will readily eat leftover flakes or pellets.
- Algae: Although nerite snails are more efficient algae eaters, mystery snails will still consume some algae.
- Biofilm: They graze on the biofilm that forms on surfaces in the aquarium.
- Dead plant matter: They help keep the tank clean by eating decaying leaves and other organic debris.
- Deceased animals: They will consume dead fish or invertebrates, preventing the buildup of harmful substances in the water.
To ensure proper shell growth and overall health, mystery snails require a diet rich in calcium. This can be achieved by:
- Snail food: Commercial snail foods are formulated to provide the necessary nutrients, including calcium.
- Calcium-rich vegetables: Offer blanched spinach, kale, or other leafy greens.
- Calcium supplements: Use liquid supplements or calcium blocks to increase calcium levels in the water.
It is important to provide enough food to prevent the snails from becoming hungry and potentially turning to live plants as a food source. Remove any uneaten food after 12 hours to prevent water quality issues.
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Breeding Mystery Snails
One of the reasons mystery snails are popular among aquarists is their ease of breeding. Unlike some snail species that can reproduce asexually, mystery snails require both a male and a female to reproduce.
Sexing Mystery Snails
Determining the sex of mystery snails can be challenging. One method is to observe their behavior during mating, as the male will be the snail on top. Another technique involves examining the snail's "shoulder" region inside the shell, but this requires patience and a keen eye.
Breeding Conditions
To encourage breeding, provide the following conditions:
- Adequate food: Gradually increase the amount of food you are feeding the snails.
- Lower water level: Drop the water line by 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) to provide space for egg-laying.
- Tight-fitting lid: Maintain warmth and humidity for the eggs.
Egg Laying and Hatching
Female mystery snails lay their eggs above the waterline in a clutch that resembles a pink, elongated blackberry. The clutch will harden within 1-2 days. The eggs typically hatch in 1-4 weeks, depending on the temperature.
Hatching and Raising Baby Snails
There are two methods for hatching mystery snail eggs:
- Natural Hatching: Allow the eggs to hatch naturally in the aquarium, ensuring a tight-fitting lid to maintain humidity.
- Separate Container: Remove the egg clutch after it has hardened and place it in a plastic container with a damp paper towel. Keep the container humid and monitor the eggs until they hatch.
Once the baby snails hatch, they can be raised in a breeder box or a separate tank to protect them from being eaten by fish or accidentally siphoned up during water changes. Feed the baby snails the same foods as the adults, ensuring the food is easily accessible.
Common Issues and Solutions
Shell Problems
- Brittle or Broken Shell: This is usually due to a calcium deficiency or overly acidic water. Increase calcium levels in the water and ensure the pH is above 7.2.
Floating
- Floating Mystery Snail: This can be due to the snail trapping air in its shell or simply floating for no apparent reason. If the snail is otherwise healthy, there is usually no cause for concern.
Inactivity
- Inactivity: If a mystery snail is inactive for a few days, it may be resting. However, if the snail has not moved in 24-48 hours, pick it up and check for a foul odor, which indicates the snail has died.
Leaving the Tank
- Snails Attempting to Leave the Water: This is often a sign of poor water conditions. Perform a 50% water change immediately using clean, dechlorinated water.
Medications
When treating fish diseases, be cautious when using medications in a tank with mystery snails, as they are sensitive to many common treatments, especially those containing copper. Consider using natural remedies or snail-safe medications. Metronidazole, Praziquantel, Erythromycin, and Malachite Green Chloride are all safe and effective medications that can be used on Mystery snails.