Giant African Land Snails (GALS), belonging to the Achatina species, have gained popularity as pets due to their ease of care. These molluscs can live for several years and grow up to 20cm in length. However, a crucial aspect of their well-being is providing a proper diet and ensuring their nutritional needs are met. This article delves into the specifics of a Giant African Land Snail’s diet, offering detailed guidance on how to keep your snail healthy and thriving.
Housing and Environmental Considerations
Before diving into dietary needs, it's important to understand the environmental requirements of Giant African Land Snails. Owners must provide the correct accommodation, heating, humidity, and lighting to ensure that the snail remains healthy.
A well-ventilated glass or sturdy plastic tank with a secure lid is essential to prevent escapes. A suitable tank size is ideally 60cm long, 45cm wide, and 40cm high. The tank should be kept out of direct sunlight, away from radiators, and draughts. A 5cm layer of peat substitute should be placed on the floor of the tank. Coir substrate is the best option to use, and you can buy it as compact bricks or loose.
Giant African Land Snails need to be kept at a temperature of 20 - 30 degrees centigrade to maintain normal growth. This can be achieved with a heat pad placed under the tank, and a vivarium heat bulb may also be necessary. This species requires temperatures between 20-25 o C, in some cold houses a heat mat with a thermostat will be required.
A very shallow water bowl should be placed in the tank to provide drinking water and maintain humidity. Snails can drown in just a few millimetres of water, so the bowl must be shallow. The walls of the tank should be wiped regularly, and the tank thoroughly cleaned with plain water once a week. Avoid using any chemicals, as snails can absorb these through their skin.
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When cleaning the tank or handling the snails, remember that these animals can carry diseases harmful to humans, such as Salmonella. It is better to obtain snails from a captive-bred source and avoid wild-caught individuals. Wild snails can carry parasites which may affect humans, but these are not present in captive-bred animals.
There is a wide range of suitable enclosures for Giant african land snails, glass tanks can be used as long as the roofs are low. Plastic food dishes, flower pots, corkbark, plastic plants and flowers are all suitable for snails.
Understanding the Giant African Land Snail Diet
G.A.L.S are omnivores and require a varied diet that includes vegetables, a calcium source, protein and a bit of fruits. A Giant African Land Snail is not an easy pet. A varied diet is essential for their health and well-being. The main components of their diet include:
- Vegetables and Greens
- Calcium
- Protein
- Fruits (in moderation)
Vegetables and Greens: The Cornerstone of Their Diet
40%-60% of a snail's diet should consist of vegetables and greens. Giant African Land Snails will eat many leafy greens, including lettuce, spinach, cress, watercress, dandelions, and grass. It is important to ensure that all food is free from chemicals such as pesticides and fertilisers.
Foods should be washed thoroughly and chopped or cut before being fed. Food should be given raw. Plane frozen foods are OK to be fed once toughed (as long as nothing has been added to them).
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Do not feed the first few leaves from a head of lettuce, cabbage, and similar vegetables, as these leaves will have been most heavily exposed to pesticides. Choose organic foods wherever possible, so as to avoid exposing your pet to potentially harmful pesticides.
Some G.A.L.S. keepers grow edible plants directly in the snails' enclosure, as a constant supply of food and enrichment.
Suitable Vegetables and Greens:
- Alfalfa Hay
- Burdock
- Clover Leaves, Stems
- Dandelion Leaves, Flowerhead
- Ficus (F. carica)
Other foods GALS will enjoy:
- Baby sweetcorn
- Blackberries
- Broccoli
- Brussel sprouts
- Cabbage
- Carrot
- Cauliflower - including the leaves
- Celery
- Chard
- Clover
- Coriander
- Cress
- Cucumber
- Dandelion leaves and flowers
- Grapes - sliced in half
- Grass - freshly picked only
The Importance of Calcium
15-30% of a snail's diet should be Calcium. It is extremely important that Giant African Land Snails consume calcium to maintain their shell. Snails need a constant supply of calcium in their enclosure. If snails are not given a constant supply of calcium it can lead to deformed shells, thin shells or stunt growth.
A constant supply of calcium is vital for GALS to grow strong and healthy shells. The absence of calcium from their diet, even for a brief period, may cause stunted growth. Animals kept without constant free access to a calcium supplement will resort to cannibalism and self-mutilation in an attempt to meet their needs. Calcium is also essential for repair in the event of shell damage.
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Regardless on which calcium source you choose to provide to your snail, always top up immediately when finished. Always make sure they have a good and constant supply of calcium, available at all times in their enclosure.
Sources of Calcium:
- Cuttlefish Bone: Also known as Cuttlebone is a hard, brittle white shell. It is an internal shell found in all members of the Sepiidae spices, commonly known as Cuttlefish which is a creature similar to a Squid or an Octopus. Therefore despite it’s name a Cuttlefish bone is not really a bone nor does it come from a fish! Cuttlefish bone is the most commonly provided calcium source, by snail keepers. It can be bought from most local and online pet shops or aviaries. For hatchlings and small snails we advice to split the cuttlebone in various smaller pieces and spread them around the tank. If the cuttlebone gets dirty simply rinse it under water and place back. Cuttlefish bones can be bought from most pet stores, and on amazon. When choosing your cuttlefish, pick pieces that are a creamy white colour. Avoid pieces that are green, brown, or yellow as these may have gone off. Also avoid cuttlefish that has been dyed or has additives included. Before feeding, scrape off the surface layer and wipe the back of the cuttlefish with a damp cloth to remove any bacteria and excess salt. Do not allow the cuttlefish to become too wet. If rehydrated, cuttlefish will quickly go bad within the humid environment of a snails tank. Possibly the easiest way to provide calcium for your snails is by providing cuttlefish. This is available in pet shops and many supermarkets, is inexpensive and lasts a relatively long time. In a tank containing multiple animals, provide a piece of cuttlefish per snail, to allow them all simultaneous access. One piece of cuttlefish can be broken into fragments to make this easier.
- Limestone Flour / Calcium powder: Limestone Flour / Calcium powder should be served as a paste or a cake. Limestone / Calcium Paste is created by adding some water to the flower and mixing it till it forms a thick paste. It is then placed on plastic saucer and put in the snail’s enclosure. Most snail keepers do this as a treat for their snails together with a regular calcium source. Limestone / Calcium Cakes are created by adding water to the flower till a paste is formed and then it is placed in mold shape, ice tray or cupcake liners and left to dry and harden (this could take up to 72 hours). When feeding calcium powder to most exotic animals, one typically sprinkles some of the powder over the animal's food. This is NOT how you feed it to snails. Snails need to have a constant source of calcium to eat when they choose. Limestone flour is a natural source of calcium and is used as a supplement for many animals, from reptiles and birds to horses. It is often given in powder form and can be sprinkled on to food or provided in a tray. Additionally, you can cut down on any mess by making limestone 'cakes'. Mix the limestone flour with water to create a thick paste and whisk out any lumps. Put into ice cube trays or a small container and leave in direct sunlight to dry and hardened.
- Oyster Grit: Oyster grit is made up of crushed oyster shells. It is very commonly used as a calcium supplement for chickens. Not all snails enjoy Oyster grit, but the ones that do usually prefer the finer crushed one, as there are a few different types. Please make sure you buy pure Oyster grit without any additives.
- Crushed Eggshells: Normal hen cooking eggshells can be used a calcium source though it is the least advised from the ones mentioned. Eggshells should be washed very well, dried and then crushed. It is up to you how fine you want to crush the shells, though not necessary, the finer they are crushed the more snails seem to like them. The crushed shells should then be placed on plastic saucer and put in the snail’s enclosure. Most Snail keepers do not use egg shells as the only source of calcium for their G.A.L.S.
Protein: Essential for Growth and Health
20% of a snail's diet should be made of food high in protein. Too much or too little protein can cause all sorts of diseases and deformities.
Protein Sources:
- Beans: All kinds of beans can be fed to snails. Make sure the beans are fully soaked & have no additives added to them. Many G.A.L.S.
- Dog Biscuits: Dog biscuit that don’t contained any added salts or other bad additives can be fed to snails. Please be careful and always check all ingredients and nutritional values. The Purina brand, Bonio original Dog biscuits are the most commonly fed to snails. The biscuit should be soaked in water and left for a few minutes till it is fully moist and mushy.
- Dried Bugs: These are generally crickets, very commonly feed to various animals as a protein source. They are easily bought at any pet shops or online.
- Dried Mealworms: Mealworms are the larval form of the mealworm beetle. Dried Mealworms are very commonly feed to various animals as a protein source.
- Fish food/ Algae Flakes with under 40% protein: There are many brands and different types of fish flakes available in the market. Please choose the ones without any extra additives such as color enhancement, Always check the ingredients on the label, and do not buy fish food without a label. Fish food that contain roughly 15% protein should be fed twice a week. The flakes should be soaked in water and left for a few minutes till they are fully moist and mushy.
- Peas: Fresh or frozen peas can be fed to snails. If frozen make sure the peas are left to thaw before serving. G.A.L.S. tend to prefer peas cut in half or mashed. Avoid canned peas.
- Seeds: (Hemp seeds, Lentils, Pumpkin Seeds, sunflower seeds and most bird seed) Dry seeds should be crushed and grated as much as possible. The seeds should be then mixed with water till they form a thick paste.
- Snail Mix: Snail mix can be made or bought. It is created by finely crushing and mixing many ingredients together to form a powder mix. Snail mix should be mixed with water and left for a few minutes till it is fully moist and mushy. It can then be placed on plastic saucer and put in the snail’s enclosure. There are a few online sellers of Snail mix. Please always look at ingredients listed and reviews before buying.
- Blood worms: Commonly use as fish bait or as fish food is a good source of protein for snails. There are different ways blood worms are packed. Some come frozen or dried. If frozen make sure the worms are left to thaw before serving. If dried the worms should be mixed with a bit of water and left for a few minutes till they are fully moist and mushy.
- Fish food/ Algae Flakes with 40%+ protein: There are many brands and different types of fish food available in the market. Please choose the ones without any extra additives such as color enhancement. The fish food that contain roughly 40% protein can be fed once a week. The flakes/pellets should be soaked in water and left for a few minutes till they are fully moist and mushy. It can then be placed on plastic saucer and put in the snail’s enclosure.
- Spirulina: Spirulina is a type of algae. It can be bought as a tablet or a powder. We advice buying the powder as it is easier to soak. Spirulina I extremely high in protein,(around 65%) we advice mixing it with other foods when feeding and only feeding very small quantities. Spirulina should be soaked in water and left till fully moist and mushy.
- Raw Meat: G.A.L.S. can eat a variety of meats including: Chicken, Beef, Lamb, Goat, Duck, and Pork. Please only feed raw meat and avoid fatty bits. Do not feed any cured or salty meats such as: Bacon, Ham and Fish. Always make sure there are no additives to the meats.
- Whole Animal: Pinkies, Mice and Chicks are commonly fed too many exotic animals; including G.A.L.S. Adult snails can eat all parts of these meals; skin, bone, hair and feathers. Mice are bread to be feeders for reptiles such as snakes. Pinkies are new born mice predominantly used to feed small reptiles, and are a big favourite for G.A.L.S. Chicks are chicken hatchlings. These are usually fed to birds of prey and snakes. They are a bi-product of the farming industry.
Fruits: An Occasional Treat
Only 10% of a Snails diet needs to be fruit. Snails who are fed too much sugar can suffer from several diseases and deformities. So please limit yourself to feeding fruit as a treat and never more than a small portion once a week.
Suitable Fruits:
- Apples
- Melon
- Grapes
- Bananas
- Strawberries
- Watermelon
- Honeydew melon
Foods to Avoid
Certain foods should be avoided to prevent health problems in Giant African Land Snails.
- Citrus Fruits: Avoid citrus fruits as they are acidic.
- Avocado: Avocado is toxic to many reptiles and should be avoided.
- Rhubarb: Similarly, rhubarb should also be avoided, particularly the leaves which are known to be poisonous.
- Cooked Foods: Do not feed cooked foods, anything salty, or animal products.
- Pasta: Never feed pasta, as this causes bloating and can be fatal.
- Salty Foods: Avoid salty foods.
Feeding Schedule and Habits
Some snail keepers feed their snails daily, others feed once a week, & others anything in between. Any of these ways of feeding is acceptable, but it is advised to keep a set routine.
Don’t worry about food is a little bit past it’s best before date, snails like to eat slightly rotting vegetables & fruit, so don’t worry about leaving food over night or more , but never leave moldy food in the enclosure.
Don’t worry if your snails don’t eat for a few days, snails will not eat for various reasons such as during a growth spurt or after a big protein meal or if their surroundings have changed & they are settling. But if you notice that your snails are acting unusual & have not eaten for no apparent reason, it could be a sign of bad health.
They are nocturnal which means that they are usually inactive during the day. It is best to have a shallow feeding bowl to prevent the floor of the tank getting messy.
General Feeding Guidelines
- Always wash food thoroughly before feeding.
- Do not feed the first few leaves from a non-organic head of lettuce, as these will have been the most heavily exposed to pesticides - this is not a problem with organic produce.
- Spinach, kale and parsley are high in oxalates which inhibit the uptake of calcium, so they should only be fed in limited amounts.
Health Considerations
Like many animals (caged birds, snakes, terrapins, tortoises, lizards etc.) and some food products (raw poultry and eggs), snails can carry the Salmonella bacteria.
The AES is occasionally asked about parasites carried by Giant African Land Snails. Like many slugs and snails, Giant African Land Snails are capable of carrying a parasite known as Rat lungworm (Angiostrongylus cantonensis). This is a parasite of rats but the larvae is passed to snails when snails eat infected rat droppings. This parasite can be passed to humans if they eat live/raw infected snails or a part of a snail.
Most Giant African Land Snails available in the UK are captive bred within the UK and not imported.
Legal Considerations
In some countries it is illegal to own Giant African Land Snails because of the invasive nature of this snail. There are currently no restrictions on owning these snails in the UK but it is illegal to release them (including eggs) into the wild.