Triethanolamine (TEA) is a common ingredient found in a wide array of skincare and cosmetic products. While often unmentioned, it plays a crucial role in product formulation, influencing texture, stability, and pH levels. This article will delve into the uses of triethanolamine in skincare, exploring its functions, safety considerations, and addressing common concerns.
What is Triethanolamine?
Triethanolamine, in its pure form, is a clear, colorless, and viscous liquid. It is often described as a "non-active" ingredient because it doesn't directly impact the skin in the same way as active ingredients like retinol or vitamin C. Instead, triethanolamine acts as a facilitator, modifying the chemical properties of other ingredients within a formulation to achieve desired effects.
Key Functions of Triethanolamine in Skincare
Triethanolamine is a versatile ingredient that serves several important functions in skincare formulations:
Emulsifier
One of the primary uses of triethanolamine is as an emulsifier. Emulsifiers are crucial for blending ingredients that would naturally separate, such as oil and water. Triethanolamine facilitates the creation of stable and homogenous mixtures, preventing separation and ensuring a consistent product. This is similar to how triethanolamine causes the immiscible ingredients to mix thoroughly and homogeneously without the need for shaking the container before every use, like in an oil and water salad dressing.
pH Adjuster
Triethanolamine is also utilized as a pH adjuster in skincare products. It can effectively neutralize acidic compounds, bringing their pH down to a level that is safe and comfortable for sensitive skin. Triethanolamine also works in the opposite direction, stabilizing higher pH levels to more acceptable skin care levels.
Read also: Smoothies for Glowing Skin
Stabilizer
Triethanolamine acts as a stabilizer, helping to maintain the consistency and shelf life of skincare products. For example, in shaving creams or gels, triethanolamine can ensure a creamy texture that lasts throughout the product's usage.
Surfactant
As a surfactant, triethanolamine reduces the surface tension of liquids, allowing them to blend more easily with other liquids, solids, or gases. This property contributes to the overall texture and application of the product.
Thickener
Triethanolamine contributes to the texture and viscosity of skincare products. The viscous nature of triethanolamine adds body and density to the formula’s feel. This thickening property makes it a valuable ingredient in products like hand sanitizers, sunscreens, lotions, and ear drops, providing a more desirable consistency.
Safety Considerations
The safety of triethanolamine in cosmetics and personal care products has been extensively evaluated by expert panels and regulatory bodies.
Expert Panel Assessment
In 1983, the Expert Panel evaluated available scientific data and concluded that TEA was safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products designed for discontinuous, brief use followed by thorough rinsing from the skin’s surface. For products intended for prolonged contact with the skin, the panel recommended that the concentration of TEA should not exceed 5%.
Read also: Customer Experiences with Bliss
In 2013, the Expert Panel reviewed the scientific data supporting the safety of TEA and 31 related TEA-containing ingredients and concluded that they are safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-irritating. The panel relied on the information available for TEA in conjunction with previous safety assessments of components of TEA-containing ingredients. These data could be extrapolated to support the safety of all included ingredients.
Concerns about Nitrosamines
One of the primary safety concerns associated with triethanolamine is the potential formation of nitrosamines. Nitrosamines are carcinogenic compounds that can form when triethanolamine reacts with N-nitrogenating agents. These agents include preservatives like 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane, or sodium nitrate.
To mitigate this risk, the Expert Panel cautioned that ingredients should not be used in cosmetics products in which N-nitroso compounds can be formed. It is crucial for manufacturers to avoid combining triethanolamine with N-nitrogenating agents in product formulations.
Addressing Common Misconceptions
There are often misconceptions surrounding the use of triethanolamine in skincare. One common concern is the idea that triethanolamine is inherently harmful or carcinogenic. However, this is not the case when it is used correctly and in accordance with safety guidelines.
The risk of nitrosamine formation is real, but it can be effectively managed by avoiding the use of N-nitrogenating agents in formulations containing triethanolamine. When products are formulated with care and attention to ingredient compatibility, triethanolamine can be used safely and effectively.
Read also: Facial Serum for Wrinkles