The Scarlet Badis ( Dario dario ) is a captivating, diminutive fish celebrated for its vibrant colors and suitability for nano aquariums. Originating from the streams and rivers of India and Bangladesh, this micropredator adds a spark of personality to any freshwater setup. Prized for their vivid red color and small size, the scarlet badis is a popular fish for nano tanks.
Introduction
This comprehensive guide explores the intricacies of Scarlet Badis care and diet, offering valuable insights for both novice and experienced aquarists. Though beautiful to behold, this species' diet and timid nature makes it somewhat challenging to keep.
Natural Habitat and Appearance
The scarlet badis ( Dario dario ) originates from India where it has a limited distribution in tributary systems that drain into the Brahmaputra River. These nano fish typically inhabit clear, shallow streams with dense vegetation. Also known as the rainbow badis or gem badis, the scarlet badis is vividly colored. Males of the species are bright red to orange in color while females have more muted coloration or may look gray in appearance. Scarlet badis males can be distinguished by the light-colored bars that run along their sides.
Tank Setup and Environment
Scarlet badis are one of the smallest species of fish belonging to the superfamily Percoidea in the order Perciformes. Because they are so small, scarlet badis are well suited to a nano tank setup. They’re a timid species, however, so they need plenty of places to hide. A small group of scarlet badis can be kept in a tank as small as 10 gallons. If you plan to keep a larger group of scarlet badis or additional species, however, a 20-gallon tank is recommended.
Water Quality
High water quality is essential for scarlet badis, considering they come from clear streams where water is constantly flowing. As natives of India, scarlet badis prefer warm water ranging from 72°F to 79°F. This species prefers neutral to slightly acidic water with a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7.5. The key to ensuring that your scarlet badis thrive is to create a tank environment that makes them feel safe. A heavily planted aquarium mimics the natural habitat from which this species originates and provides them with plenty of places to hide. Consider a dark substrate for your scarlet badis tank, as it will provide contrast to bring out this species’ bright colors. Driftwood and rockwork can be used to create points of interest and additional hiding places for your fish and other tank inhabitants.
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Tank Decorations and Substrate
The name of the game when it comes to decking out the tank for scarlet badis is plant life. Some common plant choices that go well with scarlet badis are rotala rotundifolia, Ottilia alismoides, java moss, and limnophila sessiliflora. You’ll also want to make sure that they have an adequate substrate since they’ll spend most of their time in the lower half of your tank. Sand is our personal favorite for these fish, but we know plenty of aquarists that use gravel substrates as well.
Diet and Feeding
Feeding scarlet badis can be something of a challenge if you’re used to fish that eat flakes or pellets. Scarlet badis are micropredators that feed on small crustaceans, insect larvae, worms, and zooplankton in the wild. Some evidence suggests that scarlet badis are prone to obesity and disease when fed tubifex or bloodworms, so avoid these foods. You can supplement your scarlet badis’ diet by keeping freshwater snails in the tank. Scarlet badis may accept commercial foods, but they need to be very small.
Live and Frozen Foods
Scarlet badis ( Dario dario ) rarely accept flake food or pellets when first introduced. They thrive on live and frozen micro-foods such as baby brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops, microworms, grindal worms, vinegar eels, and moina. Bloodworms or mysis are usually too large unless chopped very finely. Offer live or frozen small foods: newly hatched brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii), daphnia, cyclops, grindal worms, microworms, vinegar eels, and moina. They may learn to take high-quality micro-pellets or fine flakes, but weaning takes patience. Bloodworms and mysis are often too large-either chop them finely or avoid.
Feeding Schedule and Overfeeding
It’s very easy to overfeed scarlet badis. This is a common issue with fish that eat live foods. In general, scarlet badis are peaceful fish that just want to mind their own business. This is what makes the inclusion of plants in their tank so important. When they aren’t tucked away in vegetation you’ll see your scarlet badis moving through the bottom half of the tank.
Tank Mates and Temperament
The scarlet badis is a timid species, so they are best kept with other small and peaceful fish. A species-only tank is ideal for scarlet badis, though they may get along with nano fish or bottom-dwellers like Corydoras. They do best in species-only nano setups or with very peaceful, tiny tank mates that are not food competitors. Avoid fast, boisterous species; Scarlet badis are slow and shy feeders.
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Intraspecific Aggression
The one exception to their gentle nature is when it comes to their own kind. These fish are prone to getting feisty with each other over territory. This is why providing them with enough space is so important.
Incompatible Tank Mates
Since they’re skittish around active or larger fish, putting them in a tank with fish like bettas or cichlids is a recipe for disaster. Fish like this will likely scare off your scarlet badis and take their food.
Scarlet Badis and Shrimp
The combination of scarlet badis and shrimp is something that a lot of potential new owners ask about.
Breeding
The scarlet badis is a substrate-spawning species best bred in a species-only tank. To breed scarlet badis, make sure the water parameters are ideal and condition the fish with a varied diet of live and frozen foods. As the fish prepare for breeding, the males will develop more intense coloration and will display courtship behavior. Scarlet badis typically scatter their eggs on the underside of leaves, at which point the adults take no further part in raising them. If you plan to raise the fry, it’s best to remove the adult fish or move the eggs to a separate tank. They should hatch in 2-3 days and the fry will absorb their yolk sacs and become free-swimming after another 5-7 days.
Spawning Behavior
Males will use their bright colors and a series of fast vibrating movements to attract the attention of the female. The female will spawn and the male will fertilize the eggs as this process happens. You’ll be able to see a solid number of eggs after this is over (somewhere between 70 and 90).
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Breeding Tank Setup
As always, you’ll want to make sure that plants are available in the breeding tank since they will use it as a place for their eggs. Dario dario spawns in tiny cavities (leaf curls, clumps of moss, narrow crevices). The male courts the female and then guards the eggs until hatching; after that he may lose interest in fry care. Use slightly acidic, very clean water with abundant moss (Java moss) and small hiding spots. Males are territorial toward other males.
Water Quality and Maintenance
Scarlet badis care is relatively simple once you know what to prioritize. Obviously water quality is important for all fish, but dario dario are exceptionally sensitive to unsuitable water conditions. Aim for a 50% water change once a week, and use this as an opportunity to give your tank a good cleaning as well. If you get lazy with this and think that every other week is fine, you’re risking the health of these fish. Since water conditions are so crucial to scarlet badis, you’ll want to perform frequent water tests throughout the week.
Recommended Water Parameters
Here are the recommended parameters.
Disease Prevention
Due to the water sensitivity of this fish they can be prone to ich as well as various forms of fungal and bacterial diseases as well. The chance of your fish being afflicted by these drops significantly if you maintain the right water quality.
Lifespan
The average lifespan of scarlet badis is 4-6 years when in captivity. Their lifespan can vary greatly depending on the quality of care they receive and how well their habitat is designed.