Kirkland Signature Daily Facial Towelettes are marketed as a simple and soft cleansing solution for daily skincare, promising a deep clean without irritation. These pre-moistened towelettes aim to effectively remove makeup, oil, and dirt, leaving the skin refreshed. A key selling point is the convenience of no rinsing required after use. To understand the potential benefits and drawbacks, let's delve into a detailed review of the ingredients.
Core Cleansing and Moisturizing Agents
Water: As the most common cosmetic ingredient, water forms the base of these towelettes. Its primary role is as a solvent, dissolving other ingredients and providing a medium for the cleansing action. It makes up the largest part of the product.
Dicaprylyl Ether: Derived from caprylic acid, dicaprylyl ether functions as a texture enhancer and emollient. Its emollient properties help to soften and smooth the skin by creating a barrier, preventing moisture loss. Importantly, it is considered non-comedogenic, meaning it is unlikely to clog pores.
Decyl Glucoside: This glucose-based surfactant and emulsion stabilizer is created by reacting glucose with fatty acids from plants. As a surfactant, it aids in cleaning the skin by trapping oil, sebum, and dirt, allowing them to be easily washed away. It also stabilizes the product's formula by preventing ingredient separation. Decyl glucoside is biodegradable and non-toxic, making it a popular choice even for baby shampoos. It can also be used to stabilize the UV filter Tinosorb.
Glyceryl Oleate: As the ester of glycerin and oleic acid, glyceryl oleate primarily serves as an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it softens and hydrates the skin by forming a thin film to trap in moisture. As an emulsifier, it stabilizes the formulation, preventing oil and water from separating. It can also thicken water-in-oil formulations, shower gels, and hair shampoos. Some products may use it as a fragrance ingredient, described as having a "waxy" scent. It is created from oils rich in oleic acid, such as peanut oil and olive oil. This ingredient may not be malassezia folliculitis safe.
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Supporting Ingredients and Additives
Inulin: This polysaccharide (carbohydrate) acts as a prebiotic and antioxidant. Primarily extracted from chicory, but also found in garlic, onion, asparagus, and sugarcane, inulin may help control the skin's natural microbiota when applied topically. Its antioxidant potential varies depending on the source.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate: This chelating agent prevents metal ions from binding to other ingredients, preventing unwanted reactions and effects. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts. It also enhances the effectiveness of other preservatives.
Citric Acid: An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits. While AHAs can exfoliate skin by breaking down dead skin cells, citric acid is usually present in small amounts to adjust pH levels, making the product more compatible with the skin's natural pH. Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses).
Sodium Citrate: The sodium salt of citric acid, used to alter pH levels and act as a preservative. It maintains the product's pH and neutralizes metal ions. The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Fructose: A fruit/plant sugar found in apples, figs, and honey. Fructose functions as a humectant, drawing moisture from the air to the skin, thus keeping it hydrated.
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Sodium Bicarbonate: Also known as baking soda, it is used in cosmetics to adjust acidity. Its white crystalline solid form also allows it to act as an abrasive (exfoliator).
Tocopheryl Acetate: This is Vitamin E, an antioxidant that protects the skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen. One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Panthenol: A common ingredient that hydrates and soothes the skin. Found naturally in skin and hair, panthenol exists in two forms: D and L. D-panthenol, also known as dexpanthenol, is most commonly used in cosmetics, or a mixture of D and L-panthenol. Panthenol is known for its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin's layers. It also functions as a humectant, binding and holding large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated. It supports wound healing by increasing tissue in the wound and helping to close open wounds. Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid.
Fragrance and Plant Oils: Potential Sensitivities
Parfum: This is a broad term for ingredients used to give a scent to products, also labeled as "fragrance". It can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils, meaning each product with this ingredient has a unique mixture. The term is often unregulated, leaving it to brands to define. Some brands label themselves "fragrance-free" by avoiding synthetic fragrances, but may still include essential oils. Depending on the blend, these ingredients can cause allergies and sensitivities. Some known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol. Parfum can also mask unpleasant scents.
Punica Granatum Seed Oil: Created from pomegranate seeds, this oil hydrates the skin, reduces inflammation, and provides antioxidants. Rich in fatty acids, including punicic acid, it also contains Vitamin E, Vitamin C, and bioactive lipids. Punicic acid helps soothe inflammation.
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Cocos Nucifera Oil: Coconut oil, obtained from coconut kernels, is rich in fatty acids, primarily lauric acid, and also contains linoleic acid. It helps trap moisture and soften skin, but may clog pores and may not be safe for malassezia or fungal acne. Note: Coconut Oil should not replace your sunscreen for UV protection. Studies show it only blocks about 20% of UV.
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil: Olive oil, obtained from ripe olives, contains glycerides of fatty acids, linoleic, oleic, and palmitic acids, as well as antioxidants like Vitamin E, and Vitamins A, D, and K. The squalene in olive oil makes it a great emollient. Studies show olive oil to have antibacterial and antifungal properties in low concentrations. Another study found olive oil irritated sensitive oily skin. Due to the fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil: Also known as argan oil, it has antioxidant, hydrating, and soothing properties. It can help fight radical damage from the sun, preventing hyperpigmentation. The vitamin E content helps the skin retain water, and its fatty acids and lipids soothe inflammation. Argan Oil is effective at regulating sebum production in pores. This can make it effective at treating hormonal acne. However, argan oil contains fatty acids that may make it not fungal-acne safe.
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil: Jojoba oil, a non-comedogenic oil, contains Vitamin E and has humectant properties, drawing moisture from the air to keep skin hydrated. It also has antibacterial properties and aids in wound healing. Jojoba oil is similar to natural human skin sebum, so it has a great effect on dry skin and helps to regulate sebum production. Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Persea Gratissima Oil: Avocado oil has antioxidant properties and is mostly made up of the glycerides of fatty acids, primarily oleic acid, with palmitic and linoleic acid also present. These fatty acids help hydrate and soften the skin. It may increase collagen content in the skin.
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil: From the Babassu palm plant, this oil contains many fatty acids, mostly lauric acid. Like other plant oils, it is hydrating and softens skin and is an antioxidant. One study found this oil might contain anti-inflammatory properties, but more research is needed.
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil: Moringa seed oil has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin hydrating properties. Rich in oils, proteins, monounsaturated fats, and tocopherols, it acts as an emollient, trapping moisture in the skin. Many compounds in moringa seed oil are antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, including Vitamin E, catechins, ferulic acid, and oleic acid. This ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil: This oil isn't fungal acne safe.
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil: This oil isn't fungal acne safe.
Preservatives
Phenoxyethanol: A preservative with germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. It prevents microbial growth and has a rose-like scent. It's often used with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve shelf life.
Benzoic Acid: Used to preserve and adjust the pH of products. Its antimicrobial properties extend a product's shelf life, primarily by reducing fungi growth. It is naturally occurring in strawberries, mustard, cinnamon, and cloves.
Dehydroacetic Acid: A fungicide and bactericide used as a preservative in cosmetics to extend shelf life.
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