Unlock the Ultimate Hermann Tortoise Diet Guide for a Healthy, Happy Pet!

Hermann's tortoises ( Testudo hermanni ) are popular pets known for their relatively small size, attractive appearance, and hardiness. Native to southern Europe, these tortoises require specific care to thrive in captivity, with diet being a crucial factor. This article provides an in-depth guide to the Hermann tortoise diet, covering essential nutrients, suitable food choices, feeding schedules, and important considerations for maintaining their health and well-being.

Understanding Hermann's Tortoises

Hermann’s tortoises are found throughout southern Europe. To date there are two recognized and/or accepted subspecies: the western Hermann's tortoise (Testudo hermanni hermanni) and the eastern Hermann's tortoise (Testudo hermanni boettgeri). A third, once accepted subspecies known as The Dalmatian tortoise (Testudo hermanni hercegovinensis) is still recognized by many keepers worldwide today. Recently, this tortoise has been discounted by taxonomists as a valid subspecies due to the lack of supporting evidence that they are in fact different from Testudo hermanni boettgeri. Instead, they are considered to be nothing more than a geographical variant of the eastern subspecies.

Western Hermann's Tortoise

The western Hermann's tortoise (Testudo hermanni hermanni) is the nominate race with a type locality of Collobrieres, France. It is the rarest of Hermann’s tortoises both in nature and captivity. These animals typically attain smaller dimensions than their eastern cousins and appear more attractive as well. The ground color they exhibit is a rich golden yellow to bright greenish yellow bordered by jet black bars, bands or blotches usually covering more than 50% of the carapace (very light specimens occur in almost all localities with heavy concentration in certain origins). The yellow ground color and jet black markings of the carapace create a high degree of contrast especially noticeable when the tortoise is wet. A well-defined keyhole or “mushroom cloud” symbol is exhibited on the 5th vertebral scute just above the supracaudal shield and this has been present in more than 95% of the animals I have observed. The head is rather sleek with regular contours when compared to those of the other subspecies. A bright yellow, subocular fleck or spot is usually visible underneath and just behind each eye. This may be lacking in elderly specimens or tortoises from certain locales. The skin color resembles that of the carapace's ground color but may be a light grey-green. On the plastron there are two longitudinal jet black bands or stripes that are well formed and continuous along the midline. They are only occasionally, slightly broken, most commonly around the humeral scutes and anal scutes. The suture between the femoral scutes on the plastron is longer than that of the suture between the pectorals but in certain instances they can appear even. Rarely is the pectoral suture longer than the femoral. Inguinal scutes are usually present. Females rarely exceed six inches while some males may not surpass four; however larger examples are not uncommon. The western Hermann's tortoise is also known for typically being rounder and more domed in appearance when compared to the other subspecies. The highest point of the carapace is commonly situated somewhere between the second and fourth vertebral scute but this varies with locale and even within a given population. There are in fact several distinguishing characteristics (some rather blatant, others not so much) that set western Hermann’s tortoises from different localities apart. To the untrained eye, these may be less noticeable but to an experienced individual, they can really stand out in certain instances.

Eastern Hermann's Tortoise

The eastern Hermann's tortoise (Testudo hermanni boettgeri) is the larger, common race. These tortoises are usually viewed as “dull” when compared their western counterparts with colors as well as markings varying extremely. Rather attractively colored specimens are not unheard of. The ground color of the carapace is typically a horn color or can be brown, yellowish, or ochre. Less intense black or dark brown bars and blotches border it. The 5th vertebral scute usually lacks the keyhole symbol but a less defined “version” of it can found in some specimens especially captive bred juveniles. The head is bulkier with the eyes situated higher up and the yellow spot or fleck under each eye is usually absent except in neonates. Skin color is usually dark and may be tan, brown or grey. The plastron exhibits discontinuous black markings which appear faded, broken up and nowhere near as well defined or prominent as in their western cousins. However, an almost entirely black plastron is sometimes found in specimens deriving from southern Greece. The suture between the pectoral scutes is usually longer than that of the femorals or they may be an even length in various cases. Females typically reach seven to eight inches but extremely large, ten inch plus females have been encountered in parts of the world such as Bulgaria and also in captive collections. Males usually do not surpass seven inches but larger animals are not unheard of. These tortoises have a flatter, broader look and are more elongate than round.

Dalmatian Tortoise

The Dalmatian tortoise does exhibit some external differences that certainly set it apart from the western subspecies, but also differentiate it from the eastern to a degree. These animals are rather smallish. They resemble Testudo hermanni hermanni with regards to their size and may even be considered smaller at times due to the wide array of dimensions found within T. h. hermanni depending on the region they are found. Females of this variant of Hermann’s tortoise will rarely exceed 6” with males sometimes falling short of 5.5” (in Sardinia and Corsica, tortoises belonging to the western subspecies can easily surpass 8”, so you can see how the Dalmatian may at times be considered the smallest members of the T. hermanni species complex). The colors and markings of the Dalmatian are quite close to that of T. h. boettgeri but may be more defined. The plastral pigment can sometimes depict that of the stripes found on T. h. hermanni but instead are always discontinuous. The ratio between the pectoral scute suture and femoral scute suture is often even but may resemble the ratio found in either the western or eastern subspecies. The suture of the humeral scutes typically forms a sharp, downward curving “U”, but again, this may not always be the case and this is also found in a majority of western tortoises and some easterns. The head is rather rounded and blunt with a subocluar spot usually lacking except in younger specimens. Usually, yellow-green markings are found on the top of the head at the back. The supradcaudal shield may or may not be divided and inguinal scutes are lacking some 60% of the time. Some specimens will feature only one inguinal scute on either the right or left side. This is where differentiation can become difficult because although very rare, both T. h. boettgeri and T. h. hermanni have been encountered with inguinal scutes lacking entirely. In fact, on Sicily, western tortoises may be lacking only one. This is a trait that is less often seen in other western locales and combined with characteristics such as the presence of thigh tubercles (like those found on Testudo graeca), the discovery and addition of a new subspecies of Hermann’s tortoise may surface in years to come.

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Nutritional Needs of Hermann's Tortoises

Hermann’s tortoises are primarily herbivorous animals, who largely subsist on vegetation in the wild. Understanding their nutritional requirements is essential for providing a balanced diet that supports their overall health and prevents common health issues like pyramiding (abnormal shell growth).

Key Dietary Components

Fiber: A high-fiber diet is crucial for proper digestion and gut health.
Low Calories: Hermann’s tortoises need a diet that is low in calories to prevent obesity and promote healthy growth.
Calcium: Adequate calcium intake is essential for bone and shell development.
Vitamins: A variety of vitamins, especially vitamin D3, are necessary for overall health and proper calcium absorption.
Hydration: While not a nutrient, proper hydration is vital for all bodily functions.

Suitable Food Choices

The majority of a Hermann’s tortoise diet should come from high-fiber, low-calorie plants. It is always wise to rotate your tortoise’s “salad” regularly. Variety is helpful for avoiding nutritional deficiencies or excesses. Wild Hermann’s tortoises do not subsist on the same kinds of relatively high-calorie, low-fiber vegetables you’ll find in your local produce department, which have been cultivated to satisfy the nutritional needs and tastes of humans. Instead, they rely primarily on grasses, weeds, and sedges.

Recommended Food List

Grasses: Timothy hay, orchard grass, and other natural grasses.
Weeds: Dandelion, clover, plantain ( Plantago species), and other edible weeds. Always wash your weed haul before placing it in a plastic bag and storing in the fridge.
Leafy Greens: Kale, collard greens, turnip greens, and romaine lettuce (in moderation, as it has low nutritional value).
Flowers: Rose petals, hibiscus flowers, and dandelion flowers.
Commercial Tortoise Pellets: Supplement the diet with high-quality commercial tortoise pellets. Take 4-5 pellets per tortoise per day (based on tortoises under 1 year old, increase 3-5 pellets per year of age) and drop them into a cup of warm water for about 8 minutes or until they are swollen and soft. Some tortoise keepers mush them up, other try to keep them whole and just soften them… we feed this every other day in addition to the greens listed above daily. The pellet foods available in the pet stores are a completely unsuitable food and I do not recommend them at all.
PreAlpin: PreAlpin is a compressed cob of plants and some grasses.
Mazuri Exotic Leaf Eater or Nutrazu: The use of an extruded food is a controversial one.

Foods to Avoid

There are a variety of foods that you should never feed your Hermann’s tortoise. Additionally, you’ll want to avoid feeding your tortoise fruit. However, fruit is too rich in sugar for Hermann’s tortoises.

Fruits: Avoid fruits due to their high sugar content.
Vegetables: Broccoli, spinach, and other goitrogenic vegetables should be limited.
Animal Protein: Never feed meat, insects, or other animal proteins.
Grains and Legumes: Avoid beans, peas, and grains.

Feeding Schedule

The ideal feeding schedule for individual tortoises will vary slightly based on a variety of factors. Generally speaking, hatchling and juvenile Hermann’s tortoises fare best when fed once per day. However, it is always important to let your tortoise’s growth and health be the ultimate determinant of his feeding schedule. Hatchlings and juveniles should grow at a consistent yet gradual rate. Young adults should continue to grow, yet the rate of growth will be drastically reduced when compared to the rate of young tortoises.

Hatchlings and Juveniles

Frequency: Feed once daily.
Quantity: Offer an amount they can consume in a few hours.
Monitoring: Weigh your tortoise regularly and record the results (you can also measure your tortoise’s length, but that should not be as influential for your feeding-schedule decisions).

Adults

Frequency: Feed every other day or daily, depending on their activity level and weight.
Quantity: Adjust the amount to maintain a healthy weight.
Supplements: Use calcium and vitamin supplements to prevent your tortoise from developing a potential deficiency. We recommend Repashy Superveggie, lightly dusted on each meal. For additional calcium, place a cuttlebone in the enclosure.

Preparing Food for Your Hermann's Tortoise

There’s more to feeding your Hermann’s tortoise than simply tossing some vegetables in his enclosure and calling it a day.

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Prepare the plants and vegetables properly: This means removing any toxic or inedible (to tortoises) portions of the plant. For example, remove any thorns from roses or cactus pads before giving them to your pet.
Wash the plants and vegetables thoroughly before offering them: This is important for removing pesticides and herbicides, as well as any harmful germs (such as E. coli or Salmonella) that may have contaminated the foods. Don’t use soap when doing so; simply rinse them in cool water three times.
Mix the foods together in a “salad.” This is helpful for ensuring that your tortoise consumes all of the different foods contained in the mix rather than picking and choosing his favorites.
Place the food on a feeding dish, plate, or smooth rock: While tortoises do eat “off the ground” in the wild, this causes them to consume bacteria, fungi, and inedible (and potentially hazardous) materials from time to time.
Remove any uneaten food after a brief period of time: Don’t allow the foods to become fouled or spoil by sitting in the enclosure for extended periods of time (more than an hour or so).
Wash your pet’s food dishes after every meal: Your pet’s dishes will become dirty and contaminated by bacteria over time, which can sicken your tortoise. Accordingly, you’ll want to wash them with soap and warm water after each meal.

Additional Tips for a Healthy Hermann's Tortoise Diet

Water Availability: Always provide a shallow dish of fresh water for drinking and soaking.
Supplementation: Regularly dust food with calcium and vitamin D3 supplements. For additional calcium, place a cuttlebone in the enclosure.
Seasonal Considerations: During the summer months while food is plentiful , it is highly wise to be preparing for the winter. Dry the leaves and flowers of their fresh food and store them in airtight containers and re hydrate them with hot water. With the number of tortoises I have there is no chance of me feeding fresh throughout the winter.
Avoid Overfeeding: Monitor weight and adjust food portions accordingly to prevent obesity.

Housing

The minimum acceptable enclosure size for a Hermann’s tortoise is 22 sq feet of floor space. Since tortoises are relatively poor climbers, floor space is the most important dimension to pay attention to. If your local climate allows, it’s best to house your Hermann’s tortoise outdoors. The pen should be as large as possible, dug at least 12” into the ground and at least 24” tall with capped corners to prevent escape. In most parts of the US, the tortoise can be kept outdoors from April to October.

Indoor Housing

Hatchling Testudo hermanni are suitable for indoor keeping and by choosing this method in the beginning we are protecting them from harsh elements and possible predation. Outdoor keeping at this stage of life does work well but can pose problems especially for an inexperienced keeper.

Never use glass aquariums for tortoises. They create a constant “greenhouse” effect inside causing them to rapidly dehydrate. They also drive the tortoises crazy because they cannot comprehend what glass is and why they can see through it but not move forward. This sends stress levels through the roof. Use Rubbermaid containers instead or “tortoise tables” built from ply wood. For 2 to 3 hatchlings, a container roughly 2x3 feet will suffice. It should be at least 6” tall. Do not go too big while they are so small because they may become “lost” in the environment and you will find yourself constantly digging around to find them. As the T. hermanni grow, the size of the container can be increased to accommodate them. Several neonates can be raised together without issue if space permits but watch out for any weaker individuals who may have trouble competing for food.

A suitable substrate is clean top soil mixed with coconut coir or peat moss. I prefer to ad sand into this mix to help generate a substrate that replicates what they experience in nature more closely. However, using sand has been known to cause impaction in reptiles which can lead to death. Although in more than 20 years we have never experienced this with any of our tortoises kept on it, this does not mean it won’t happen to your animal(s). Use caution or simply don’t use the sand. The substrate can be up to 4” deep to allow for burrowing. Burrowing is 100% normal! Do not be alarmed by his behavior while they are this young. They are babies after all and babies sleep. I also recommend adding cypress mulch as a 2” top layer but you can also mix it in to the existing substrate. The mulch aids in keeping an adequate humidity level which should be around 70%. Do not let the substrate dry out entirely by keeping a spray bottle filled with water on hand to mist the enclosure. A common misconception regarding tortoise keeping is thinking they must be kept very dry. This is in fact not true and we now know that pyramiding (unnatural, lumpy growth of the carapace scutes)is directly linked to improper humidity levels along with insufficient hydration. In nature, baby tortoises spend a great deal of time burrowed into the ground, under leaf litter or jammed under debris. There, it is humid, moist and dark. They are programmed to hide and typically do not venture out anywhere near as much as older specimens. By doing this they are constantly subjected to a higher level of humidity than one might assume. Although wild tortoises can sometimes appear lumpy or pyramided, this is only in extreme cases where severe droughts are common. Most will exhibit beautiful growth and smooth shells.

In the evening after the lights are turned off, I place the lid on the rubbermaid containers that house our baby tortoises. This helps to mimic the dark, humid refuges the neonates confide in when in nature. The humidity builds up overnight and in the morning it is released when the lids are taken off. I do not doubt for one second that this method has something to do with the natural, smooth shells our tortoises attain as they grow.

A very shallow water tray (0.5”) can also be provided to the babies so that they have constant access to fresh water. Drinking is crucial for baby Hermann’s tortoises and additional soaks for 15 minutes in luke warm water, 3 to 4 times weekly are also wise. Half logs, upside down tupperware with an entrance hole cut in, drift wood and cork bark make for excellent hide aways. These will be used frequently by the occupants. Fake plants or edible weeds may be grown in the indoor unit if you wish to do so. Just like indoors, they should always have access to fresh water. The 2” deep stainless steel dishes mentioned above work great outside too and can easily be cleaned. The adults will use them frequently to soak in and drink from but they will be soiled quickly.

UVB Lighting and Heating

Yes, a moderate level of UVB lighting is required for Hermann’s tortoises to maintain good health. Your UVB bulb and fixture should be roughly half the length of the tortoise’s enclosure, and left on for 14 hours/day during summer, and 10 hours/day during winter. Since Hermann’s tortoises need such large enclosures, indoor enclosures require more illumination than just a UVB bulb can provide. Like other reptiles, Hermann’s tortoises are cold-blooded, which means that they rely on external temperatures to manage their own body temperature and metabolism. Specifically speaking, Hermann’s tortoises should have a basking temperature between 95-105°F. Ambient temperatures should be between 75-85°F. Nighttime temperatures should be below 72°F. Provide heat for your tortoise with at least two halogen flood heat bulbs, placed close together over the basking area to evenly heat the tortoise’s entire body. If you are housing your Hermann’s tortoise outdoors, supplementary heating is unnecessary unless night temperatures fall below 50°F.

Humidity

Adult Hermann’s tortoises don’t need much in the way of humidity except for a designated humid area on the cool side. Hatchlings (up to 3” long) are more sensitive to dehydration, and should be maintained in a terrarium with ambient humidity levels between 60-80% on average. Providing a thick layer of naturalistic substrate (“bedding”) will help maintain correct humidity levels and also provide something for your tortoise to dig in as desired. Substrate should be at least 6” deep and completely replaced every 3-4 months.

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