After a decade-long hiatus, Harold Dieterle, the winner of the first season of "Top Chef," has made a comeback to the New York restaurant scene with Il Totano, a coastal Italian restaurant located in Manhattan's West Village. This new venture, in partnership with Alexandra Shapiro, owner of Hoexters and Flex Mussels, occupies the former Flex Mussels location at 154 W. 13th Street. Il Totano, meaning "the squid" in Italian, promises a unique dining experience, blending Dieterle's culinary expertise with a transportive ambiance inspired by the Italian coast. However, the restaurant closed after only a couple of months.
A Coastal Italian Escape in the West Village
Il Totano aims to transport diners to the Italian coast with its menu and décor. Overseen by interior designer Sasha Bikoff, the restaurant's design draws inspiration from the Italian fashion brand Marni. Bold, blue-and-white hand-painted wallpaper adorns the walls, complemented by a dark walnut bar designed to evoke the image of a sleek Riva boat gliding through the Amalfi Coast. Wicker-shaded light fixtures and wavy blue-and-white wallpaper further enhance the coastal atmosphere.
The restaurant is open for dinner Sundays to Thursdays from 5pm to 10pm and Fridays and Saturdays from 5pm until 11pm.
The Menu: A Focus on Seafood and Childhood Nostalgia
The menu at Il Totano emphasizes seafood, with a particular focus on dry-aged fish. Dieterle, who grew up fishing with his grandfather in West Babylon, is eager to share his love for seafood through his dishes. The dry-aging process, similar to that used for high-end steaks, involves controlled moisture levels and time, resulting in fish with a tightened texture and concentrated flavor. The menu also incorporates childhood nods for both Dieterle and Shapiro. The spaghetti with Dungeness crab pays tribute to Dieterle's crabbing trips with his grandfather, while the chicken marsala reflects Shapiro's early years on the Upper East Side.
Dry-Aged Fish: A Culinary Highlight
One of the main draws of Il Totano is its dry-aged fish program. The restaurant features a humidity-controlled chamber where fish are aged, enhancing their flavor and texture. Dieterle explains that dry-aging improves the fish's taste and texture while extending its shelf life and resulting in a wonderfully crisp skin.
Read also: Top Chef Winner: Harold Dieterle
Signature Dishes
Some of the standout dishes at Il Totano include:
- Dry-aged bluefin tuna: Served with fried capers and fig leaf oil.
- Grilled branzino: Accompanied by blistered Sicilian green beans.
- Crispy pork-chop cotoletta: Topped with white anchovies and Calabrian chili dressing.
- "Fake" affogato: Made with fior di latte ice cream and Manhattan Special espresso soda.
- Spaghetti with Dungeness crab: A tribute to Dieterle's crabbing trips with his grandfather.
- Branzino with Sicilian green beans: Showcasing the crispiness achieved through dry-aging.
The Bar: Southern Italian-Inspired Tipples
The bar at Il Totano features Southern Italian-inspired cocktails, complementing the restaurant's coastal theme. The wine list, curated by sommelier Catherine Hooper, leans towards producers from southern Italy, with a selection of 60 bottles and 15 wines by the glass. Playful cocktail options include the Bitter Giuseppe (Chaparral liqueur, orange, and grapefruit) and the Capri (Probitas rum, Blackpool Spiced Rum, J.M.
A Decade-Long Hiatus and a Return to Roots
Harold Dieterle's journey to Il Totano has been marked by both success and challenges. After winning "Top Chef" in 2006, he opened three restaurants in New York City: Perilla, Kin Shop, and The Marrow. These establishments showcased Dieterle's culinary versatility, with menus ranging from New American to Thai and German cuisine. However, in 2014 and 2015, Dieterle made the difficult decision to close all three restaurants, citing the challenges of the restaurant business in New York City.
Following his departure from the restaurant scene, Dieterle spent time consulting and rediscovering his passion for fishing, a hobby he enjoyed as a child. This period of reflection and exploration ultimately led him back to the kitchen, culminating in the opening of Il Totano.
Initial Impressions: A Mix of Praise and Criticism
Il Totano's initial reviews were mixed, with critics praising Dieterle's culinary skills but expressing reservations about the overall dining experience. Robert Sietsema of Eater New York lauded the restaurant's dry-aged fish as "a dish of the year," noting Dieterle's renewed energy. However, Helen Rosner of The New Yorker felt that Il Totano "doesn't seem to know what kind of restaurant it's trying to be." Despite the mixed reviews, several critics highlighted the excellence of the restaurant's crudo.
Read also: Unveiling the history of 62-11 Dieterle Crescent
Closure and Future Plans
Despite the initial excitement and positive feedback on some dishes, Il Totano closed its doors after just a couple of months. The restaurant's team plans to introduce a new concept in the same location. The reasons for the closure remain unclear, but it highlights the challenges of the restaurant industry in New York City.
Harold Dieterle: A Culinary Journey
Harold Dieterle III, born on June 11, 1977, in West Babylon, New York, is an American chef best known for winning the first season of "Top Chef." His culinary career began at Della Femina in the Hamptons, followed by positions at Red Bar and 1770 House in New York City. After winning "Top Chef," Dieterle opened Perilla in 2007, followed by Kin Shop and The Marrow. While these restaurants garnered critical acclaim, they eventually closed in 2014 and 2015. In 2019, Dieterle consulted on the menu for Ten Hope, a restaurant in Williamsburg.
Read also: Restaurant Meals for Protein
tags: #Harold #Dieterle #new #restaurant