If you're aiming to simplify your skincare routine and achieve minimized pores, younger-looking skin, and a clear, radiant complexion, glycolic acid might be the ingredient you've been searching for. This powerhouse ingredient offers an all-in-one solution for various skin concerns, from aging to acne.
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), an organic, carbon-containing molecule that naturally occurs in sugar cane and fruits, as stated by Jessica Krant, a board-certified dermatologist at the Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York. Other AHAs include lactic acid and citric acid. It's important not to confuse AHAs with beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid. AHAs are water-soluble and primarily used for chemical exfoliation, while BHAs are fat-soluble and can penetrate pores to unclog blackheads. AHAs are commonly found in peels and toners, while BHAs are often in acne control products like cleansers and moisturizers.
According to Dr. Krant, "Glycolic acid helps to separate the connections between keratinocytes [skin cells] in the outer layers of skin without rough, mechanical exfoliation techniques and promotes exfoliation. In this way, it can artificially speed up cell turnover and bring fresher, younger cells to the surface."
Benefits of Glycolic Acid for the Skin
"I think people underestimate how much glycolic acid does," says Sapna Palep, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Spring Street Dermatology in NYC. "It works for anti-aging. It’s very good for acne. It stops acne from the get-go - from the comedone stage. [Patients] come to me like, ‘I hate these blackheads on my nose, and my pores feel so big.’ I put them on glycolic right away.” This skincare superstar offers a wide range of benefits:
Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles
Danusia Wnek, Senior Chemist at the GH Beauty Lab, notes, "Glycolic acid, at concentrations consistent to those found in skincare products, has been shown to minimize the appearance of photo-aged skin." A clinical study showed significant improvement in overall photo-damaged skin using an 8% glycolic acid formula. Testers also reported significant improvement in fine lines after 22 weeks. As you age, your skin loses collagen that helps the skin feel elastic and plump. This loss in collagen eventually leads to fine lines and wrinkles. Glycolic acid's exfoliating effect also helps improve skin tone and texture as you age. Additionally, glycolic acid increases your skin's hyaluronic acid levels. Hyaluronic acid helps your skin retain moisture and stay hydrated.
Read also: The role of alpha-keto acids in metabolism.
Minimizes the Appearance of Pores
Corey L. Hartman, M.D., founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama, explains, "This happens by removing dead skin cells that can get caught inside of them. While nothing can actually change the size of your pores, when they are clean and not clogged with oil and dead skin they appear smaller." For those with oily and acne-prone skin, glycolic acid can help reduce oil production and unclog pores, preventing acne breakouts," said Chacon. If you have a breakout, you're dealing with pores clogged with oil, dirt, or skin cells. When glycolic acid exfoliates the skin, it sloughs away dead skin cells and unclogs pores.
Removes Dead Skin Cells
"Glycolic acid dissolves the bonds that hold the cells together," says Dr. Hartman. Because glycolic acid helps dissolve dead skin cells, it can also help prevent ingrown hairs stuck inside skin cell buildup. Additionally, glycolic acid can help treat strawberry skin (keratosis pilaris). Glycolic acid is a substance that chemically exfoliates a person’s skin by dissolving dead skin cells and oils.
Helps Fight Acne
Dr. Hartman states, "By exfoliating the top layer of dead skin on the skin’s surface, you minimize the risk that the old, dead skin gets mixed with sebum, which creates acne." Evidence notes that formulations containing glycolic acid can help to reduce acne, improve skin texture, and prevent comedonal acne. Additionally, its exfoliating properties may help to unclog pores and reduce the appearance of acne scars.
Evens Out Skin Tone
Wnek shares, "Glycolic acid has been shown to statistically improve discoloration and skin texture at a level of 5% when compared to a placebo in this study." Glycolic acid is also safe for new mothers to use, according to Dr. Palep. Since ingredients like BHAs and retinol should be avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding, “it’s a lifesaver for women during this period of time.” Dermatologists often recommend glycolic acid to fade dark patches of skin (hyperpigmentation) caused by acne or sun damage. It is also safe to use on darker skin tones. Glycolic acid is highly effective in reducing dark spots and treating hyperpigmentation. It works by promoting the shedding of pigmented cells and encouraging the growth of new, evenly pigmented skin cells. This process helps to lighten dark spots and improve the uniformity of the skin’s tone. Glycolic acid can lighten dark patches left by acne or other wounds.
Combats UV Damage
A 2020 study notes that glycolic acid is an effective treatment for sun damage in the skin. A 2018 paper also reports that glycolic acid has a protective effect against UVB rays, meaning it may help prevent photoaging. Applying glycolic acid to the skin seems to reduce wrinkles and other signs of aging and sun damage.
Read also: Facial Toner with Hyaluronic Acid
How to Use Glycolic Acid Effectively
“Glycolic acid can be found in all sorts of products, from washes to toners to medical grade chemical peels,” says Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist, and founder of Mudgil Dermatology in NYC. “The use really depends on the exact preparation.”
Regardless of the product, Dr. Krant advises to only use products with a maximum concentration of 10% at home. “Stronger formulations can be applied by your board-certified dermatologist in-office but should only be applied by people with extensive experience and training in chemical peels.” Dermatologists often recommend glycolic acid to fade dark patches of skin (hyperpigmentation) caused by acne or sun damage. It is also safe to use on darker skin tones. For stronger treatments, glycolic acid is also found in chemical peels. Light-duty glycolic acid peels up to 30% strength can be done by an esthetician at a salon or skin spa. Professional skin peels are a good option if you want to treat a specific skin issue. For example, professional peels can help with sun damage, dark spots, acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, or deeper wrinkles. They will give you greater results more quickly.
Incorporating Glycolic Acid into Your Routine
Start gradually with a lower concentration product a few times a week and gradually increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
Combining with Other Skincare Ingredients
Hyaluronic acid is a great partner for hydration, and Vitamin C can be used in alternating routines for brightness. Avoid using glycolic acid with retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, as these combinations can increase irritation.
Potential Side Effects
People usually don’t experience side effects from using glycolic acid, but for “those with dry or sensitive skin, it can be irritating,” says Dr. Mudgil. “Low percentage washes can be used daily without issue in those with oily skin, whereas medical grade peels may only be tolerated once a month.” For in-office or in-salon peels, you will likely start with a lower amount of glycolic acid. Your skin may feel a bit rough after your first few treatments. This is normal and just means that the glycolic acid is working. Unless your skin is irritated, keep using your glycolic acid product.
Read also: Smoothies for Glowing Skin
Cautions
Although it’s uncommon, the worst side effects that people can experience is due to uncareful use of higher percentage glycolic acid products. “Glycolic acid is an acid that can burn or scar skin,” warns Dr. Krant. “Excessive redness, a lingering burning sensation, skin turning grayish-white or - worst-case scenario - skin blistering and sloughing off immediately are all signs of possible danger and permanent scarring.”
Additionally, "people with darker skin should be aware that overuse of glycolic acid can lead to hyperpigmentation - the exact opposite of what most people are using glycolic acid for," says Dr. Hartman. "People with darker skin have a higher percentage of melanin in their skin and small irritations likes redness and peeling can trigger an inflammatory response, which can often lead to hyperpigmentation." If you are concerned about this, he recommends starting slow and using a glycolic acid product with a low percentage, once per week. If your body tolerates the product well, increase the usage to one to two times per week. Some common side effects include: Redness and Irritation: especially for those with sensitive skin, glycolic acid can cause redness and irritation when first introduced. Dryness and Peeling: exfoliation may lead to dryness and peeling, as dead skin cells are removed. Increased Sensitivity: due to the exfoliating nature of glycolic acid, your skin may become more sensitive to environmental factors, particularly the sun.
Important Tips
- Patch Test: Always test new glycolic acid products on a small area of skin.
- Sunscreen: Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day.
- Consult a Professional: If pregnant or with existing skin conditions, consult a healthcare provider or dermatologist.
Frequency of Use
"As a leave-on treatment, I don't recommend using glycolic acid every day because it can cause excessive irritation," says Wnek. "Incorporate it slowly into your routine and work your way up to every other day or every two days, if tolerated."
Wnek notes that the one time it can be used daily is in cleansers at lower concentrations, "but again slowly incorporate it into your routine," she advises. Begin with a lower concentration, such as 5-10%, and use it 2-3 times a week. Once your skin builds tolerance, you can increase the frequency to daily use and opt for products with up to 15% glycolic acid.
Ingredients to Avoid
Dr. Hartman advises against using glycolic acid with salicylic acid, vitamin C, retinol, or benzoyl peroxide to minimize the risk of irritation. "You can use those ingredients in other parts of your routine, but not at the same time, on the same day," he explains. "For example, if you regularly apply a retinol serum at night, but want to try glycolic acid, apply the glycolic acid product and skip your retinol for a couple of nights. If you have sensitive skin, skip using any other kind of exfoliating product on the day you use glycolic acid." You can use glycolic acid with retinol, but you want to avoid mixing them directly because they can both irritate the skin. Start using retinol once a week to see how your skin reacts, then gradually add it a few times a week. After a few months, if your skin is still doing well, use a glycolic acid product on days when you don't use retinol.
Glycolic Acid vs. Other Ingredients
Glycolic Acid vs. Salicylic Acid
Glycolic acid is an AHA, and salicylic acid is a BHA. "Glycolic acid molecules are smaller, and they work by exfoliating the top layers of the skin, helping skin shed old, dead skin cells and reveal newer skin underneath, which leads to a more even skin texture and tone," says Dr. Hartman.
Glycolic Acid vs. Vitamin C and Retinol
"Glycolic acid is a great complement to a skincare routine that uses vitamin C and retinol, but I wouldn’t say it is better than either ingredient, or that should you replace using vitamin C and retinol with glycolic acid," says Dr. Hartman.
Glycolic Acid Beyond the Face
Yes, glycolic acid can work its magic on more than just the face. "Products with glycolic acid can be used successfully on the body, particularly underarms where the exfoliating properties of the molecules can help brighten skin," says Dr. Hartman.
Choosing the Best Glycolic Acid Products
Since the best products for you will depend on your skin type, you should always consult your dermatologist first. If your skin is more sensitive or dry, look for products that have a lower glycolic acid percentage (around 5%). When choosing any glycolic acid treatment, the percent of glycolic acid it contains is just one factor to think about. The product's pH is the other. The more acidic a product is, the stronger and more effective it will be on your skin despite how much glycolic acid it contains. Granted, most skincare products only list the percent of glycolic acid used.
Caudalie’s Products Containing Glycolic Acid
Vinoperfect Glycolic Night Cream
This night cream is designed to visibly fade dark spots and even out skin tone during your sleep. It contains a blend of glycolic acid and other active ingredients to gently exfoliate and renew the skin overnight. Use it as the final step in your nighttime skincare routine, applying it to clean, dry skin. Over time, this product helps to reduce dark spots and improve skin radiance.
Vinoperfect Glycolic Peel Mask
The Vinoperfect Glycolic Peel Mask offers a professional-grade exfoliation treatment that you can use at home. This mask combines glycolic acid with natural ingredients to remove dead skin cells and reveal a brighter, smoother complexion. Apply it once or twice a week to dry skin, leave it on for 10 minutes, and then rinse off. Regular use will enhance the smoothness and clarity of your skin, making it look more youthful and radiant. For complete the routine you can use other products of the collection like the Dark Spot Serum, the Glycolic Essence or the Eye Cream for bags under eyes.