Glycolic acid is a versatile skincare ingredient known for its exfoliating, hydrating, and anti-aging properties. It is found in many over-the-counter (OTC) products, including facial cleansers, serums, toners, treatment creams, and peels. This article will provide an overview of the benefits and potential side effects of facial creams containing glycolic acid.
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from natural sources such as sugarcane, beets, and certain fruits. AHAs are natural acids found in foods. It works by removing the top layers of dead skin cells, revealing fresher, newer skin underneath. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin deeply and efficiently, making it highly effective for exfoliation and improving skin texture. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies include glycolic acid in topical products to treat skin conditions or to improve skin texture and appearance. The acid that cosmetic companies use tends to come from a laboratory rather than natural sources.
How Glycolic Acid Works on the Skin
When applied topically, glycolic acid exfoliates the skin while retaining moisture. It loosens the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface of your skin. These dead cells then shed away, revealing the fresh, new skin underneath. Over time, it works beneath the surface to stimulate collagen production, which improves firmness and texture.
Benefits of Glycolic Acid for the Skin
Exfoliation for Brighter Skin
By removing dead skin cells, glycolic acid uncovers fresh, radiant skin, contributing to a youthful glow. This process also enhances skin texture, making it smoother to the touch.
Fading Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots
Glycolic acid can help fade imperfections like uneven skin tone or post-acne marks over time by promoting the shedding of pigmented cells and encouraging the growth of new, evenly pigmented skin cells. Additionally, dermatologists often recommend glycolic acid to fade dark patches of skin (hyperpigmentation) caused by acne or sun damage. It is also safe to use on darker skin tones.
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Boosts Collagen for Anti-Aging Results
Collagen, the skin's support system, diminishes with age. Glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, reducing fine lines and giving your skin a firmer feel. This protein helps plump the skin and give it a firm yet elastic feel. As you age, your skin loses collagen that helps the skin feel elastic and plump. This loss in collagen eventually leads to fine lines and wrinkles.
Enhances Skin Texture
Glycolic acid smooths and softens the skin for a silky finish. Regular use can diminish rough patches and uneven texture, resulting in a more refined skin surface.
Improves Product Absorption
By clearing out layers of dead skin, glycolic acid allows serums and moisturizers to penetrate better, amplifying their effectiveness. This ensures that other skincare products can deliver their intended benefits more efficiently.
Unclogs Pores for Clearer Skin
Glycolic acid deep cleans pores and prevents buildup, reducing breakouts. This is particularly beneficial for individuals struggling with blackheads or acne, as it helps maintain clear and healthy skin. For those with oily and acne-prone skin, glycolic acid can help reduce oil production and unclog pores, preventing acne breakouts," said Chacon. If you have a breakout, you're dealing with pores clogged with oil, dirt, or skin cells. When glycolic acid exfoliates the skin, it sloughs away dead skin cells and unclogs pores.
Prevents Ingrown Hairs
Because glycolic acid helps dissolve dead skin cells, it can also help prevent ingrown hairs stuck inside skin cell buildup. Additionally, glycolic acid can help treat strawberry skin (keratosis pilaris).
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Supports Skin Moisture
Glycolic acid is also a humectant, which means it attracts and binds water to skin cells. It does this by increasing the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, which are molecules that draw water in the skin. Additionally, glycolic acid increases your skin's hyaluronic acid levels. Hyaluronic acid helps your skin retain moisture and stay hydrated.
Antibacterial Properties
A 2020 study states that, at certain concentrations, glycolic acid can inhibit the growth of bacteria.
Reduces UV Damage
A 2020 study notes that glycolic acid is an effective treatment for sun damage in the skin. A 2018 paper also reports that glycolic acid has a protective effect against UVB rays, meaning it may help prevent photoaging.
How to Use Glycolic Acid in Your Skincare Routine
Choose the Right Product
Glycolic acid comes in many forms, from cleansers and toners to serums and peels. Cleansers offer a gentle, rinse-off introduction to glycolic acid. Toners provide a deeper treatment and prep your skin for other products. Serums offer high concentrations for targeted results. You can find glycolic acid in a wide range of formats, including cleansers, toners or face mists, liquid exfoliants, serums, moisturizers, acne treatments, face masks or at-home peels. Generally, however, products that have a leave-on formula will have the best results, as the formula gives the acid more time to work.
Start Slowly
Begin with a 5-10% concentration if you’re a first-time user. You can increase to 15%+ over time if your skin tolerates it well. When using any new OTC glycolic acid product, always follow the directions. How often you use glycolic acid will also depend on the product. Glycolic acid peels: Use these products less frequently because they are more concentrated. "Regardless of the product type, it's important to start slow when introducing glycolic acid into your routine, gradually increasing frequency as your skin adjusts," said Chacon.
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Pair It With Hydrating Products
To balance its exfoliating effects, layer glycolic acid with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or a rich moisturizer.
Avoid Conflicting Ingredients
Steer clear of pairing glycolic acid with strong actives like retinol or vitamin C in the same routine. You can use glycolic acid with retinol, but you want to avoid mixing them directly because they can both irritate the skin.
Best Time to Apply
Glycolic acid is great for nighttime use when your skin is in repair mode.
Possible Side Effects and Risks of Glycolic Acid
While glycolic acid has incredible benefits, knowing how to use it properly is key to avoiding irritation.
Increased Sun Sensitivity
Since glycolic acid removes surface cells, it can make your skin more susceptible to UV damage. Glycolic acid also makes skin super sensitive to the sun and increases your risk of sunburn. Always wear sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) when using this ingredient.
Redness or Irritation
If you’re new to glycolic acid or have sensitive skin, you might experience mild redness or tingling. Start at a lower concentration and work your way up gradually. Glycolic acid can irritate the skin, so people with extremely sensitive skin should use glycolic acid with caution, noted Chacon.
Overuse Can Damage Your Skin Barrier
Using glycolic acid too often or at high concentrations can compromise your skin barrier, leading to dryness or sensitivity. Moderation is key.
Allergic Reactions
Although rare, some people can have an allergic reaction to glycolic acid.
Hyperpigmentation
Strong or irritating skin care products can also cause hyperpigmentation. It is especially important for people who are prone to hyperpigmentation to use nonirritating, gentle exfoliants.
Precautions and Tips
Patch Test
Always patch test any new glycolic acid product on a small area of skin to check for adverse reactions.
Sunscreen
It's imperative to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day to protect your skin from UV damage and prevent sunburn, hyperpigmentation and melasma. Glycolic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s crucial to wear sunscreen every day when using this product. Look for a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 to protect your skin from harmful UV rays.
Consultation
If you're pregnant or breastfeeding, consult a healthcare provider before using glycolic acid. Those with existing skin conditions like eczema or rosacea should speak to a dermatologist to ensure that glycolic acid is safe for their skin type. Before trying glycolic acid, it is important to seek guidance from a healthcare professional, such as a dermatologist, particularly if a person has an ongoing skin condition.
Avoid Mixing with Other Active Ingredients
To avoid potential irritation, it’s best to use glycolic acid on its own and avoid layering it with other active ingredients like retinol or vitamin C. If you want to incorporate multiple active ingredients into your skincare routine, it’s best to use them on alternate days.
Start Slow and Monitor
When a person is ready to try glycolic acid, they should do the following:
Do a patch test: A patch test involves trying the product on a small area of skin that is not on the face. That way, it is possible to see whether the skin will tolerate it. If no symptoms occur, apply it to the face.
Start slowly: It is best to start with a low strength of glycolic acid, using it infrequently at first. If the skin feels smoother and shows no signs of an adverse reaction, a person can slowly increase their use following the instructions on the product label. Do not use it more often than the label or a doctor advises.
Choose one product: There is no need to use an entire line of skin care that contains glycolic acid. One product is enough to get the benefits. Introducing one new product at a time also allows a person to see whether it is working.
Use at night: Glycolic acid increases the risk of sunburn, which is why some prefer to use it at night.
Apply sunscreen: Always apply sunscreen as the last step in the routine before going outside while using AHAs.
Who Should Use Glycolic Acid?
"Any skin type can benefit from using glycolic acid, including oily, dry, and combo skin," Gabriella Vasile, DO, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Réforme Dermatology & Aesthetics in Charleston, told Health.
Glycolic acid may be a better fit if you:
- are mainly concerned with hyperpigmentation or uneven skin tone
- want to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- don’t have oily skin
- have little to no acne breakouts
When to Seek Professional Advice
If you’re not seeing results or are experiencing side effects, it might be time to consult a professional. An esthetician, like myself, can help assess your skin type and recommend the best course of action for incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine. We can also guide you on how to properly use and layer the product for maximum effectiveness.
It’s important to remember that everyone’s skin is unique and what works for one person may not work for another. Seeking professional advice can help tailor your skincare routine to your specific needs and ensure you’re using glycolic acid safely and effectively.