The dietary habits of monarchs have always been a subject of public interest, reflecting not only personal preferences but also broader cultural and political contexts. King George III and King George IV, in particular, offer fascinating case studies in how food, masculinity, and national identity intersected during their reigns. While King George IV was known for his excessive indulgence, King George III embraced a more modest and self-controlled approach to eating, which aligned him with the emerging middle-class values of the time. This article delves into the dietary practices of these two kings, exploring the cultural significance of their choices and how they shaped public perception of their monarchy.
King George IV: The Indulgent Glutton
King George IV, also known as the Prince Regent or "Prinny," was notorious for his extravagant lifestyle and conspicuous consumption of food and wine. His reign, marked by the Regency period's ostentatious displays, saw him ridiculed by cartoonists for his excesses. By the end of his life, he suffered from gout, extreme corpulence, and near-blindness.
A Breakfast of Champions?
Prinny's fondness for extremely large breakfasts, often accompanied by a dose of laudanum, was well-documented. A typical breakfast consisted of two pigeons, three beefsteaks, three parts of a bottle of white wine, a glass of dry champagne, two glasses of port, and a glass of brandy. This lavish diet contributed to his increasing weight, requiring three hours to lace him into his girdle and whale bone corset, resulting in a 55-inch waist.
Lavish Banquets and 100-Course Feasts
For his coronation banquet, King George IV offered his 1,600 guests an astounding 7,442 lbs of beef, 7,133 lbs of veal, 2,474 lbs of mutton, plus heaps of lamb and poultry. This event marked the end of extravagant coronation banquets, but George continued the tradition by hosting regular 100-course feasts. Even on his deathbed, his hunger persisted, as he ordered two pigeons, three steaks, a bottle of wine, a glass of champagne, two glasses of port, and a glass of brandy.
King George III: Frugality and the Fashioning of a Responsible Monarch
In contrast to his son, King George III cultivated an image of frugality and self-control, particularly in his eating habits. This approach was part of a broader effort to fashion himself as a responsible head of household and a virtuous monarch, aligning with the emerging middle-class values of industrializing Britain.
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A Simple and Locally Sourced Diet
King George III favored a modest diet consisting mainly of vegetables and little wine. He believed in "exercise, air and light diet" as the grand fundamentals of health and sprightliness. His eating habits were distinctly non-aristocratic, reflecting a conscious effort to distance himself from the conspicuous consumption associated with the elite.
The King's Awareness of Public Opinion
King George III was acutely aware of public opinion and the need to appeal to his subjects. He understood that legitimacy as a monarch required him to embody virtues such as frugality, agricultural interests, and familial devotion. By moderating his diet and exercising self-control, he aligned himself with the middle-class ideal of manliness, which emphasized respectability and self-discipline.
Food as a Micropolitical Act
King George III's dietary choices can be seen as a micropolitical act, an exercise of bodily autonomy that reflected his notions of sovereignty and public utility. In a culture where greed and unruly appetites were believed to expose themselves at the table, George presented himself as a temperate and responsible ruler.
The Royal Household's Daily Diet: Insights from the Kew Ledger
The Kew Ledger (1788-1801) provides valuable insights into the daily diet of the royal household during their visits to Kew. This ledger, updated daily by the Clerk of the Kitchen, lists the foods served to the royal family, courtiers, visitors, and servants.
Structure and Preferences within the Household
The Kew Ledger reveals the structure of the royal household and the decision-making processes behind who ate what. The personal preferences of the king and queen are discernible, along with those of other powerful members of the household, such as the princesses and the equerries.
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Meals as Public and Private Events
Meals at Kew took place in a liminal space that was simultaneously public and private. The king's dinners became particularly public during periods of illness when his meals were closely observed by physicians and courtiers. This visibility underscored the king's power as a representative of enduring monarchy and a manifestation of the state's power.
Servants' Diet: Temperate and Practical
The servants' diet reflected their lower social status, with a lack of choice in the foods they were served. The kitchen prepared large quantities of one type of meat (usually roasted) each day, which was then served at all the tables. This meat tended to be mutton or veal, considered humorally "temperate" and suitable for a wide range of people.
Beef and National Identity
Beef, in particular, held a special significance in Britain, associated with British character and outlook. King George III's approval of a large quantity of roast beef for his household was a conscious embrace of British identity, both in content and cooking method.
Food, Masculinity, and Self-Fashioning
King George III's self-fashioning choices at the table suggested the kind of man he was: someone who aligned his notions of sovereignty with the concept of public utility. He moderated his diet and exercised self-control in ways that aligned him more closely with the version of manliness of the middle classes than that of the aristocracy.
Rejecting Conspicuous Consumption and Effeminacy
The emerging expectation for masculinity was created in direct opposition to the masculinity more typically adopted by elite men, which was associated with conspicuous consumption, French cuisine, and foppish effeminacy. King George III's simple tastes and agricultural interests set him apart from this image, positioning him as a virtuous and responsible ruler.
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Food and the Body Politic
The royal family's dietary habits were closely observed by the public, with fatness associated with wastefulness and lack of control. Eating the right types of foods was also important, as bodies (including the body politic) were believed to be porous and easily affected by the environment or diet.