This article provides a detailed analysis of the ingredients commonly found in Eden and Eve skincare products, leveraging user-provided information to offer a comprehensive understanding of their function, safety, and potential benefits.
Water (Aqua/H2O)
The foundation of many skincare formulations, water, often listed as Aqua or H2O, is the most prevalent ingredient. In cosmetics, purified and deionized water is used, which means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it are removed.
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate)
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, also known as Octinoxate, is a frequently used chemical sunscreen that is clear and oil-soluble, making it "cosmetically elegant." It effectively protects against UVB rays but offers no protection against UVA rays (320-400 nm). For broad-spectrum protection, it should always be combined with other sunscreen agents.
Octinoxate's stability is a concern, as it degrades and loses effectiveness upon exposure to sunlight, losing approximately 10% of its SPF protection ability within 35 minutes. Combining it with other sunscreen agents like Tinosorb S can enhance its stability and provide broad-spectrum protection.
Safety concerns exist regarding Octinoxate, with in vitro and animal studies indicating potential hormonal (estrogen-like) effects. While these studies were not conducted under real-life conditions on human subjects, caution is advised, especially for pregnant women and children under two years old. Physical sunscreens (zinc oxide/titanium dioxide) or new-generation Tinosorb-based sunscreens are recommended for these groups.
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Avobenzone
Avobenzone is a globally available chemical sunscreen agent that provides UVA protection (310-400 nm), covering both UVA1 and UVA2 ranges, with peak protection at 360 nm. However, it is photolabile and degrades in sunlight, losing 36% of its UV-absorption capacity after one hour of sunlight exposure.
The cosmetics industry addresses this instability by combining avobenzone with other UV filters like octocrylene, Tinosorb S, or Ensulizole, or by encapsulating it. Combining avobenzone with mineral sunscreens (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) is not recommended.
Avobenzone has a good safety profile, being non-irritating and showing no estrogenic effects.
Octocrylene
Octocrylene is a colorless to light yellowish oily liquid that serves as a UVB (280-320nm) sunscreen filter, with a peak absorbance at 306 nm.
Glyceryl Stearate SE
Glyceryl Stearate SE is an oily ingredient that can blend with water due to the presence of water-loving soap molecules, such as sodium stearate. It differs from "normal" Glyceryl Stearate because the SE grade contains a small amount of water-loving soap molecules, such as sodium stearate.
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Behenyl Alcohol
Behenyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol (a non-drying type with a long, oil-loving chain of 22 carbon atoms). It increases the viscosity of the formula and helps to stabilize the mixture of oily and watery components, acting as an emulsion stabilizer.
Arachidyl Glucoside
Arachidyl Glucoside is created by attaching a water-loving sugar molecule (glucose) to an oil-loving 20-carbon-long fatty chain. It is often combined with fatty alcohols like Arachidyl and Behenyl alcohol to form an emulsifier trio trade named Montanov 202. Montanov 202 gives creams a unique, evanescent, and light feel with a matte finish.
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol is an extremely common multitasker ingredient.
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Alcohol is an ingredient that gives skin a soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams and lotions. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. It’s a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. alcohol.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is composed of porous spherical microbeads (tiny little balls) that can impart an elegant, silky texture to products.
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Dimethicone
Dimethicone is a silicone that makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss, and forms a protective barrier (occlusive). It can fill in fine lines and wrinkles, giving the skin a plump look temporarily. It is also used in scar treatment gels to soften scars and increase their elasticity. In hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone that smoothes the hair.
Potassium Sorbate
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative that helps cosmetics last longer. It is not a strong preservative and primarily works against mold and yeast. To be effective, it must break down into its active form, sorbic acid, requiring water and the right pH value (pH 3-4). It is often used in conjunction with other preservatives. It is also a food preservative with the E number E202.
Phenoxyethanol
Phenoxyethanol is a helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. It’s pH dependent and works best at acidic pH levels (3-5).
Glycerin
Glycerin is a humectant that attracts moisture to the skin.
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract
Grape seed extract contains polyphenols, similar to green tea, with proanthocyanidins being the most abundant (60-70%). These GSPs are potent antioxidants, stronger than Vitamin C or Vitamin E. Generally, darker fruits contain more GSPs and other flavonoids.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is a white to beige powder that is described as the golden standard emulsifier for emulsions (oil+water mixtures) that are difficult to stabilize.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil is the essential oil coming from the rind of the orange (the sweet one). Citrus peel contains furanocoumarin, a compound that makes them mildly phototoxic. Orange peel contains less furanocoumarin than other citruses, but caution is advised, especially in daytime products.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Jojoba is a drought-resistant evergreen shrub native to Southwestern North America. Jojoba oil, a golden yellow liquid, is extracted from the seeds (about 50% of the seed weight). Jojoba oil is a wax ester, chemically a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, which gives it unique properties. It is extremely stable, even when heated to 370°C (698°F) for 96 hours. Jojoba oil is also similar to human sebum, making them completely miscible.
Cetyl Alcohol
Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that acts as an emollient, thickener, and emulsifier in skincare products. It can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Ethylhexylglycerin is a preservative that is safe and gentle. It is often used with phenoxyethanol to improve its preservative activity.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA) is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is a promising candidate for skincare due to its potential to be absorbed into the skin and converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA). THDA has great skin penetration abilities, surpassing pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration, and penetrates into deeper layers of the skin.
However, it is important to note that derivatives need to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is a form of Vitamin C. It is a derivative of vitamin C intended to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits, but it seems to fall short on several things. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. Third, another study that wanted to examine the antioxidant properties of AP was surprised to find that even though AP does have nice antioxidant properties; following UVB radiation (the same one that comes from the sun) it also promotes lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity.
Titanium Dioxide
Titanium Dioxide is a sunscreen agent that provides broad-spectrum coverage and is highly stable. It offers good protection between 290 - 350 nm (UVB and UVA II range) but less protection at 350-400 nm (UVA I) range.
Titanium Dioxide can be cosmetically unappealing, being a white, "unspreadable" mess. The cosmetic industry uses nanoparticles to solve this problem. While there are concerns about nanoparticles being absorbed into the skin, studies suggest that titanium dioxide nanoparticles stay on the surface of the skin.
Talc
Talc is the major component of most powder makeup products.
Key Eden and Eve Skincare Principles
- No Parfum: Eden and Eve bans all synthetic fragrances in their products, as the term "fragrance" can encompass numerous chemicals, including hazardous phthalates.
- Essential Oil Standards: Essential oils are used for natural fragrance, but only about 1 in 50 oils meet Eden and Eve's quality and safety standards. Problematic oils like Lavender and Tea Tree Oil, which can cause skin sensitization, are avoided.
- Never-Ever List: Eden and Eve avoids over 1,400 chemicals prohibited in personal care products by the European Union. They also ban commonly used natural ingredients known to be allergens or skin sensitizers.
Featured Ingredient: Kakadu Plum
Kakadu Plum (Terminalia Ferdinandiana), found in northern Australia, is a nutrient-rich superfruit traditionally used as an antiseptic and soothing balm. It is an excellent source of antioxidants and one of the highest naturally occurring plant sources of Vitamin C.
Customer Testimonials
Customer testimonials highlight the positive experiences users have had with Eden and Eve Skincare products, particularly the Eve Bar. Some customers report improvements in skin texture and tone, reduction in blackheads and whiteheads, and a brighter complexion. Others with sensitive skin have found the products to be gentle and non-irritating. Some customers praise the product for acne and acne scar reduction.