Dermaplaning, a popular exfoliation technique, has gained significant traction in the beauty industry. Universal Companies, with over 40 years of experience in assisting spas and salons, recognizes dermaplaning as a valuable service. This article delves into the nuances of dermaplaning, specifically comparing the dry and wet techniques, to provide a comprehensive understanding for both practitioners and individuals seeking to enhance their skincare knowledge.
Introduction to Dermaplaning
Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation technique that utilizes a surgical blade to gently remove dead skin cells and vellus hair (peach fuzz) from the face. This process leaves the skin feeling smooth, looking radiant, and better prepared for the absorption of skincare products. As a non-invasive procedure, dermaplaning serves as an excellent alternative to more aggressive treatments like chemical peels and microdermabrasion. It can also be used as a preparatory step to enhance the effectiveness of those treatments.
The Core Principle: Exfoliation and Hair Removal
At its core, dermaplaning achieves two primary goals: exfoliation and hair removal. By removing the outermost layer of dead skin cells, dermaplaning reveals the fresher, healthier skin underneath. Simultaneously, the removal of vellus hair contributes to a smoother complexion and enhances the skin's overall appearance.
Dry Dermaplaning: Technique and Considerations
Dry dermaplaning involves performing the exfoliation on dry skin that has been thoroughly degreased, typically using an alcohol prep pad. This method is characterized by a single pass of the blade over the skin in most cases. However, if the client has thick vellus hair, the esthetician might perform an initial pass to remove the hair, followed by a second pass for exfoliation.
Procedure
- Skin Preparation: The skin is cleansed and dried. An alcohol prep pad is used to degrease the skin, ensuring a clean surface for the blade.
- Blade Technique: A surgical blade is held at a 45-degree angle and gently stroked across the skin. The esthetician keeps the skin taut and uses short, controlled movements.
- Number of Passes: Typically, one to two passes are made over each area of the skin. If the client has thick vellus hair, an initial pass may be performed to remove the hair, followed by a second pass for exfoliation.
- Post-Treatment Care: After the dermaplaning procedure, a soothing serum or moisturizer is applied to hydrate and calm the skin. Sunscreen is essential to protect the newly exfoliated skin from sun damage.
Advantages of Dry Dermaplaning
- Effective mechanical exfoliation on dry skin.
- Suitable for most skin types and experienced dermaplaning clients.
- The unobstructed view of the skin allows the practitioner to easily identify any irritation caused by the dermaplaning.
- Faster treatment time.
Disadvantages of Dry Dermaplaning
- Exfoliation may not be as effective as wet dermaplaning.
- The client may experience irritation.
Wet Dermaplaning: Technique and Considerations
Wet dermaplaning involves applying a thin layer of product, such as oil or a peel solution, to the skin before exfoliation. This product layer provides optimum glide for the blade and helps soothe and prepare the skin. Due to the product barrier, the stroke technique involves multiple passes over a single location.
Read also: Risks and Benefits of Dermaplaning on the Nose
Procedure
- Skin Preparation: The skin is cleansed and dried.
- Product Application: A thin layer of oil or a peel solution is applied to the skin.
- Blade Technique: A surgical blade is held at a 45-degree angle and gently stroked across the skin. The esthetician keeps the skin taut and uses short, controlled movements.
- Number of Passes: Multiple passes are made over each area of the skin to achieve optimal results.
- Post-Treatment Care: After the dermaplaning procedure, a soothing serum or moisturizer is applied to hydrate and calm the skin. Sunscreen is essential to protect the newly exfoliated skin from sun damage.
Advantages of Wet Dermaplaning
- The product layer provides optimum glide for the blade.
- The product layer helps soothe and prepare the skin.
- Multiple passes can be made over each area of the skin to achieve optimal results.
Disadvantages of Wet Dermaplaning
- Lubricant may irritate the skin.
- Longer treatment time.
Key Differences Between Dry and Wet Dermaplaning
The primary difference between dry and wet dermaplaning lies in the application of a product to the skin. Dry dermaplaning is performed on dry, degreased skin, while wet dermaplaning involves applying a thin layer of oil or a peel solution. This difference in technique leads to variations in stroke volume, the number of passes required, and potential benefits and drawbacks.
Stroke Volume
In dry dermaplaning, the stroke path is typically a single pass. Multiple passes on dry skin can lead to over-exfoliation and irritation. In wet dermaplaning, the stroke technique involves multiple passes over a single location due to the product barrier.
Potential Irritation
Dry dermaplaning allows for an unobstructed view of the skin, making it easier to identify any irritation. However, the lack of lubrication can also increase the risk of irritation. Wet dermaplaning provides lubrication, which can help reduce irritation. However, the lubricant itself may irritate some clients' skin.
Factors Influencing the Choice of Technique
The choice between dry and wet dermaplaning depends on several factors, including the client's skin type, the practitioner's experience, and the desired results.
Skin Type
Dry dermaplaning is generally suitable for most skin types and experienced dermaplaning clients. Wet dermaplaning may be more beneficial for clients with dry or sensitive skin, as the oil or peel solution can help soothe and hydrate the skin. However, clients with oily or acne-prone skin may find that the lubricant used in wet dermaplaning clogs their pores or causes breakouts.
Read also: Combining Dermaplaning and Tretinoin: What to Know
Practitioner Experience
Experienced dermaplaning practitioners may be comfortable using both dry and wet techniques, adapting their approach based on the client's individual needs. Less experienced practitioners may prefer to start with dry dermaplaning, as it allows for a clearer view of the skin and reduces the risk of over-exfoliation.
Desired Results
Dry dermaplaning may be sufficient for clients who simply want to remove vellus hair and achieve a smoother complexion. Wet dermaplaning may be more effective for clients who want a deeper exfoliation or who have specific skin concerns, such as dryness or hyperpigmentation.
Potential Risks and Precautions
Like any exfoliation technique, dermaplaning carries potential risks and requires certain precautions.
Over-Exfoliation
One of the most common risks of dermaplaning is over-exfoliation, which can lead to irritation, dryness, and inflammation. To minimize this risk, it is important to avoid multiple passes over the same area of skin, especially with dry dermaplaning.
Infection
Infection is another potential risk of dermaplaning, as the procedure involves using a surgical blade on the skin. To prevent infection, it is essential to properly sanitize all tools and work in a clean environment.
Read also: Dermaplaning with and without oil
Hyperpigmentation
In rare cases, dermaplaning can cause hyperpigmentation, especially in individuals with darker skin tones. To minimize this risk, it is important to avoid dermaplaning on skin that is already irritated or inflamed.
Contraindications
Dermaplaning is not suitable for everyone. Contraindications for dermaplaning include:
- Active acne
- Eczema
- Psoriasis
- Sunburn
- Open wounds
- Skin cancer
Expert Opinions and Recommendations
Lori Vargas, founder of 360 Wellness Education, emphasizes the importance of mastering both dry and wet dermaplaning techniques. According to Vargas, having both skills provides confidence, flexibility, and superior results.
Addressing Common Concerns and Misconceptions
Many individuals have questions and concerns about dermaplaning, particularly regarding its safety and effectiveness.
Hair Regrowth
One common misconception is that dermaplaning causes hair to grow back thicker or darker. This is not true. Dermaplaning only removes vellus hair, which is fine and soft. It does not affect the hair follicles, so the hair will grow back the same way it was before.
Pain and Discomfort
Dermaplaning is generally a painless procedure. Some individuals may experience slight tingling or sensitivity, but this is usually mild and temporary.
Downtime
There is typically no downtime associated with dermaplaning. Some individuals may experience slight redness or sensitivity immediately after the procedure, but this usually subsides within a few hours.
Aftercare and Maintenance
Proper aftercare is essential to maximize the benefits of dermaplaning and minimize the risk of complications.
Hydration
It is important to keep the skin hydrated after dermaplaning. Apply a soothing serum or moisturizer to hydrate and calm the skin.
Sun Protection
Sunscreen is essential to protect the newly exfoliated skin from sun damage. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every day, even on cloudy days.
Avoiding Irritants
Avoid using harsh or irritating skincare products for a few days after dermaplaning. This includes products containing retinoids, AHAs, or BHAs.
The Importance of Professional Training
While dermaplaning may seem like a simple procedure, it is important to seek professional training before attempting it. Certified Advanced Dermaplaners are trained to correctly prep the skin, use sharp tools on the face, and keep everything sanitary. They also understand the nuances of dry and wet dermaplaning techniques and can adapt their approach based on the client's individual needs.
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