Ever wondered how some people leave a facial with the most gorgeous glow you've ever seen, or how their makeup sits so flawlessly on their skin in the days after, making it seem like they're wearing a filter? Chances are, they've had a dermaplaning treatment. Dermaplaning is a simple yet highly effective facial rejuvenation treatment that has become increasingly popular in recent years. It is a minimally invasive procedure for our facial skin that uses a unique instrument to shave the uppermost layers of our faces, removing dead skin cells and peach fuzz. This leaves our skin looking brighter, smoother, and more youthful.
However, what happens if you've got dry, sensitive skin that may not react well to exfoliation? Enter: oilplaning. Dermaplaning 2.0, oilplaning is essentially dermaplaning with a layer of facial oil added on to protect the skin.
What is Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning refers to a specific type of physical exfoliation that removes build up of dead skin cells as well as peach fuzz, medically known as the vellus hairs. It is a popular way of removing dead skin cells and peach fuzz. It leaves our skin looking brighter, smoother, and more youthful. Dermaplaning is highly beneficial to your skin and will help you achieve instantly smoother and fairer skin.
Many of us shave as part of our grooming ritual. Shaving our legs and arms can leave our skin feeling smoother, brighter, and flawless. It can increase our confidence and makes us feel beautiful. Interestingly, shaving isn’t only limited to our bodies, we can also shave our faces too.
What is Oilplaning?
Think of oilplaning as dermaplaning's hydrating sister, ideal for dry, sensitive, or mature skin. Oilplaning can either be done at home, by an aesthetician, or by a medical professional. The key difference with oilplaning is that before shaving, one applies oil, which functions as a barrier so that the face is not as likely to be injured while shaving. Unlike traditional dermaplaning that does not employ a pre-treatment oil, the addition of oil allows for a smoother glide of the blade across the skin.
Read also: Risks and Benefits of Dermaplaning on the Nose
Benefits of Dermaplaning and Oilplaning
Dermaplaning gives several skin advantages. People interested in it are often looking to achieve a more youthful look.
Smoother Skin: Dermaplaning is highly beneficial to your skin and will help you achieve instantly smoother and fairer skin.
Brighter Complexion: It leaves our skin looking brighter, smoother, and more youthful.
Enhanced Makeup Application: When applying makeup, the aesthetic effect is smoother and brighter.
Beyond the benefits during the treatment itself, the post-treatment benefits can last for weeks.
Read also: Combining Dermaplaning and Tretinoin: What to Know
Dermaplaning With Oil: A Closer Look
By applying oil prior to dermaplaning, you’re crafting a barrier from the blade and the skin’s surface. In doing so, you’re lessening the friction, allowing the blade to glide over the skin instead of scraping against it.
Benefits of Using Oil
Oil plays a huge role in lubricating and protecting our skin during the treatment. It also softens the hair and dead skin cells, making them easier to remove. Some of the oil also penetrates the skin.
Reduced Irritation: By first applying an emollient-rich facial oil, you add a layer of protection to the skin barrier and increase the glide of your blade - comparable to using a shaving cream. This helps reduce the risk of irritation and nicks, and is particularly helpful for those with dry or sensitive skin.
Hydration: Face oil should have nourishing and hydrating properties. It’s essential to bring back moisture and keep your skin protected.
Choosing the Right Oil
When choosing an oil for oil planning at home, you must be careful. Opting for the wrong type can have negative skin consequences. You should strive for an oil that is naturally derived with only very simple ingredients. The more natural, the better. Exfoliation can introduce irritation to the skin barrier. Do not use one that is heavily fragranced.
Read also: Comprehensive Dermaplaning Guide
- Non-Comedogenic: Opt for a non-comedogenic face oil. It is very crucial to do so. This type of oil can be used on all skin types. They ensure they don’t clog your pores during or right after dermaplaning.
To get the most out of dermaplaning, use the suitable oils for your skin type. Some oils may work wonders for certain skin types, yet they can be too heavy or introduce breakouts for others.
Best Oils for Oily and Acne-Prone Skin
An oily complexion is caused by an overproduction of sebum, creating excess oil. When there’s extra oil, it’s more prone to breakouts, also inflammation. The same is true for acne-prone skin. The best oil to use for dermaplaning oily complexion is a non-comedogenic oil, specifically, those high in linoleic acid and low in oleic acid. It’s best to look for one that is also light in texture.
- Jojoba oil has the same structure as natural skin oils and is a non-comedogenic carrier oil.
- Grape seed oil can lighten skin discolorations like acne scars.
Best Oils for Dry and Mature Skin
Dry skin is born due to a lack of moisture. It makes skin prone to irritation, redness, and flaking. Dehydrated complexions also tend to look duller. Mature skin is often dryer and thinner and more prone to wrinkles, sagging, and dullness. The best oils to use for this skin type are oils that are abundant in fatty acids, also those that aid in the skin’s barrier’s lipid balance.
- Argan oil is excellent in hydrating the skin.
Best Oils for Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin type is due to an overactive immune system, introduced by genetics and environmental factors, and in some, medication. For those with it, it’s more prone to inflammation. Sensitive skin also struggles with redness and irritation.
- Jojoba oil has the same structure as the skin’s natural oil.
Best Oils for Normal Skin
Normal skin is best described as not too dry and not too oily, it is well-balanced. Thus, the best type would be a lightweight oil. Look for those that can be easily absorbed, moreover, those are abundant with antioxidants and nutrients.
- Jojoba oil is lightweight.
- Argan oil is lightweight.
- Rosehip oil is overflowing with antioxidants and essential fatty acids.
How to Oilplane
The experts agree: Oilplaning can be done at home if performed properly, with the correct tools and knowledge.
- After removing all your makeup and cleansing the skin, apply a generous amount of oil.
- Pull your skin taut for tension and make short, gentle, downward strokes with the dermaplaning blades to remove the surface vellus hairs and the top dead layer of skin.
- Be sure to move the blade in the direction of your hair growth, not against it.
He adds that the chosen oil should be non-comedogenic and that typically, the device you use should be held at a 45-degree angle.
Dermaplaning Without Oil
Some say to wash your face then Dermaplane completely dry. It is also okay to dermaplane on dry and squeaky clean skin. If you're acne prone or generally don't tolerate oils on your skin, you'll want to stick to traditional dermaplaning on dry skin.
How to Dermaplane
If you've seen one dermaplaning tutorial, you've seen them all, but the basics are as follows: wash your face so your skin is clean and prepped. Using your dermaplaning razor, use short, light stokes while holding the skin taut. Keep a cotton round handy to clean the blade while you go.
Dermatologist advice: Be conservative. Do not go over any area more than once and don't use [the blade] on the eyelids or lips, or areas where you don't want to lose hair, like the eyebrows and hairline. Remember you're holding a blade, so if you have acne or redness, don't shave over it. Avoid crevices such as near the nose, approaching at the wrong angle could cause injury to the skin.
Who is a Good Candidate?
In general, those with normal, dry or combination skin are good candidates for at-home dermaplaning. The experts agree that mature skin is also typically a great candidate for this treatment. People with oily and acne-prone skin can also benefit, but may want to dermaplane less frequently to avoid over-exfoliating.
When to Avoid Dermaplaning or Oilplaning
On the flip side, avoid oilplaning if you have active acne, cystic acne, flaky or inflamed skin, eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea, or dark, coarse facial hair.
It is recommended for most skin types unless you have a severe acne problem. Dermaplaning works great with few minor blemishes, but not with active or inflamed acne because you run the risk of nicking it and making it bleed. It is a good idea to treat any active breakouts first.
In general oilplaning can be done on all skin types, however it is important to avoid if you are experiencing an active flare of acne or rosacea, as it may cause additional breakouts or potential irritation.
Some circumstances may make dermaplaning inadvisable. When in doubt, seek professional guidance to evaluate your skin’s condition.
Proper Preparation for Dermaplaning
Proper preparation is key to avoiding irritation and getting optimal results from at-home dermaplaning. Always start with freshly cleansed skin free of makeup, sunscreen and debris. However, sensitive or dry skin types should avoid over-exfoliating to prevent damage to the skin barrier.
It’s best to avoid using retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, vitamin C and other potent actives in your skincare routine on the day you dermaplane. Patch testing is a must if you have sensitive skin or allergies.
Tools for Dermaplaning
Where razors are concerned, you want to make sure you're using a blade designed for dermaplaning. There are certain razors that are specifically designed to help remove the fine hairs on the face without creating too much injury to the surrounding skin. A good option for someone with sensitive skin is the Schick Silk Touch Up, which uses high quality blades along with fine microguards to help protect the skin. Other options include the Hollywood Browzer or the Hollywood Smoother, which have similar features.
Specialized dermaplaning tools with a guarded design minimize nicks and cuts. Razors should have a single edge and sharp, pointed tip to get into crevices around the nose and lips. Never share dermaplaning tools to avoid transferring bacteria.
Aftercare
After dermaplaning, be extra gentle on the skin.
- After dermaplaning, you’ll want to cleanse your face gently immediately. A gentle cleanser will eliminate any debris and residue that’s left behind on the skin’s surface. Do not use harsh and abrasive ones.
- Wash your face again with a gentle cleanser then apply a reparative moisturizer. Dermaplaning can leave your complexion a bit dry or sensitive. To aid, use a hydrating serum or face oil.
- It's best to avoid the use of any other exfoliating treatments, including physical scrubs or retinoids after dermaplaning.
- Similarly, avoid sun exposure and be sure to wear SPF. For sunscreen post-oilplaning, it is recommended to use a sunscreen oil.
- For a week following dermaplaning, stick to a simple beauty routine. Use a gentle cleanser. Apply hydrating serum. Further, use sunscreen daily. It’s essential to use sunscreen after dermaplaning because the skin will become more sensitive to the sun’s harmful rays. Apply a broad spectrum SPF 30 sun product daily.
- You’ll want to steer clear of beautifying yourself for at least a day after dermaplaning. Harsh skincare products such as retinoids and glycolic acids can cause irritation.
- In the first few days, it's best to stick with a gentle skin-care routine, and then transition back to your normal skin-care routine, knowing that dermaplaning may help other products penetrate better.
Alternatives to Dermaplaning
When it comes to facial hair removal, there are a few options. Laser hair removal can be explored as a more permanent solution.
When it comes to exfoliating the skin for glowy, hydrated, results, there are many alternatives to oilplaning. To achieve smooth, soft skin, there are other things to consider. In terms of topicals, retinols and retinoids can provide smoother skin and tighter pores.