Before the mid-19th century, clothing was a personal expression, custom-made by hand. However, the rise of technology and the fashion industry led to mass production and distribution. Factories and retail outlets produced clothes in standard sizes at fixed prices. Media coverage of fashion also increased, with topics like design originality and brand authenticity gaining importance. Platforms began covering fashion trends, sparking controversies to engage audiences.
Today, the fashion industry is a global multibillion-dollar market focused on creating and selling high-quality clothing. As Kate Spade said, "Playing dress-up begins at age five and never truly ends."
Understanding the Fashion World
The fashion and apparel industries are closely linked, with the latest trends blurring the lines between them. While designs showcased by high-end brands like Tom Ford, Gucci, and Lakmé differ from mass-produced streetwear, the fashion industry encompasses the manufacturing and advertising of all types of clothing, from exclusive styles to everyday wear. This vast selection aims to prevent fashion monotony, as Kenzo Takada put it, "Fashion is like eating, you shouldn’t stick to the same menu."
Diet Sabya and Diet Prada: Controversial Fashion Police
Like any industry, fashion faces issues like plagiarism and bigotry. Original designs are celebrated, while copied designs are criticized. However, identifying copied styles can be challenging. This is where social media sensations like Diet Prada and Diet Sabya come in. These "fashion police" expose copycat fashion and call out similarities in design. They also address racism and bigotry within the industry.
Diet Prada
Diet Prada, with the tagline "ppl knocking each other off lol," consistently reveals and shames brands and designers for copying fashion and styles. They also react to racism, acting on tips from their Instagram followers to hold designers accountable.
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Diet Sabya
Diet Sabya focuses on the Indian fashion industry, humorously exposing fashion inspirations and calling out celebrities for wearing international brands. They also reveal edited and photoshopped images, making their account popular among followers.
The Significance of These Platforms
There is a subtle difference between inspiration and copying. Diet Sabya often correctly shames Indian designers who blatantly copy international designs. Indian fashion has long struggled with copycatting, with design studios importing cheap clothing from cities like Bangkok and South Korea, falsely labeling them, and selling them at inflated prices. In this context, targeting these designer houses and calling them out for profiting from reputable stylists is necessary. Diet Prada has been doing the same internationally, bettering the fashion world. Designer Sabyasachi even tweeted, "These guys are pretty good," in approval of Diet Sabya. Diet Prada, unlike Diet Sabya's sharp tone, uses a more elaborate and explanatory approach.
The Faces Behind the Accounts
Initially anonymous, Diet Prada's founders, Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler, revealed their identities in May 2018 after a feud with Dolce and Gabbana. Liu, 32, and Schuyler, 30, met while working as designers under Eugenia Kin and launched Diet Prada in 2014. Now, they fearlessly shame industry names. Diet Prada's Instagram account is followed by celebrities like Chrissy Teigen, supermodels like Naomi Campbell, and designers like Marc Jacobs. They post side-by-side photos of original and copycat designs, humorously shaming the plagiarists. Diet Sabya is more direct, calling the styles "#gandi copy."
Rip-Off Controversies: National and International
Diet Sabya recently highlighted a model, Erika Packard, showcasing a shirt she claimed to have redefined from her uncle's hand-me-down, using a patch from her mother's bandhani saree. Diet Sabya claimed the shirt was an original design by Ikat Story, and credits should be given to designer Chandini Sareen. Another controversy involved Suneet Verma's couture collection lehenga, which had similarities to Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla's 2015 retail design. Diet Sabya also called out Yami Gautam for wearing a red net gown similar to one worn by Bella Hadid, calling Yami Gautam "Bella Hadid from Bandra." Diet Prada called out Olivia Culpo for wearing a dress resembling one she launched in her collection, while a Chanel pearl vest worn by Linda Evangelista in 1991 was copied by a Korean brand called Blindness in 2018.
Designers Suing Giants
Diet Prada and Diet Sabya target brands like Celine, Giambattista Valli, Calvin Klein, Nykaa, Lulu and Sky, Koovs, Dolce and Gabbana, and Masaba Gupta. While the accounts don't pursue legal action, they have prompted apologies and public confessions. Virgil Abloh, a frequent target of Diet Prada, has defended himself by saying that design similarities can be coincidental.
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Controversies with Big Names
Diet Prada's biggest controversy was with Dolce and Gabbana, who copied Diet Prada's official merchandise. Diet Prada designed a "Say sorry to me" t-shirt and sold it for $32, but Dolce and Gabbana created a similar design and sold it for $385. The feud is ongoing.
Impact on the Fashion Market
Diet Prada and Diet Sabya have encouraged designers and stylists to be more cautious. The goal behind calling out copycats is to protect creativity and promote ethical practices. Both platforms oppose racism, bigotry, and indecency in the fashion industry, aiming to create a safe and inclusive environment.
Conclusion
Fashion critics and writers are now supported by platforms like Diet Prada and Diet Sabya. Alber Elbaz, former Lanvin designer, noted that every designer follows Diet Prada. The account has become the industry's biggest watchdog, thanks to support from figures like Naomi Campbell. However, the fashion establishment hesitates to fully embrace Diet Prada, as it challenges industry power players that others avoid. Despite abandoning anonymity, Diet Prada has become more emboldened, engaging in controversies like the feud with Dolce & Gabbana. Diet Prada remains one of the few fashion observers with real clout to disobey one of its cardinal rules: calling out the industry power players that no one else dares touch. And, somehow, abandoning their anonymity at the end of 2017 only seems to have emboldened the pair, who have gotten increasingly involved in the drama themselves. Their ongoing feud with Dolce & Gabbana-which started selling knockoffs of Diet Prada merch for 12 times the price this past summer-for example, exploded into a full-scale scandal this past November, when the duo played a key role in Dolce & Gabbana’s blockbuster China show being canceled amid widespread accusations of racism.
2018's Scandals and Dramas
Looking back at 2018's scandals, Diet Prada highlighted Dolce & Gabbana's racist videos and Stefano Gabbana's offensive DMs as unsurprising. They were surprised by Thom Browne's show featuring bound and gagged women during the Kavanaugh hearings and by Simon Porte Jacquemus's "fake news" denouncement of their post. Stefano Gabbana's actions were deemed the most offensive, costing him millions and causing lasting damage. Diet Prada also noted niche dramas like #vuittonvapegirl and the IRL "The Devil Wears Prada" moment at Michael Kors's show. The New York Times' exposé on sexual assault allegations against photographers Bruce Weber and Mario Testino was considered the biggest drama in modeling, while Jane Birkin's performance at the Gucci show was a positive highlight. Emilia Wickstead's criticism of Meghan Markle's wedding dress and Prada's blackface tchotchkes also sparked controversy.
Looking Ahead to 2019
Diet Prada hoped for continued focus on inclusivity in the fashion industry, emphasizing that it should be seen as a way to build a strong business and community, not just a trend.
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Controversial Ad Campaigns
The article also touches upon controversial ad campaigns throughout history, including Eckhaus Latta's real sex campaign, Yves Saint Laurent's nude ad, Brooke Shields's Calvin Klein ads, Kate Moss's uncomfortable campaign with Mark Wahlberg, Wonderbra's traffic-stopping billboards, Calvin Klein's underage model campaign, Yves Saint Laurent's nude Sophie Dahl ad, Tom Ford's Gucci pubic hair ad, American Apparel's sexualized ads, Diesel's "Be Stupid" campaign, and Tom Ford's men's fragrance ad.
Dolce & Gabbana's Shanghai Show Cancellation
The Dolce & Gabbana's Shanghai show cancellation was a major controversy. The brand produced videos of a Chinese model struggling to eat Italian food with chopsticks, which were criticized as racist. Diet Prada shared screenshots of Gabbana's alleged DMs, leading to models and staff fleeing the show and Chinese celebrities disavowing the brand. The designers apologized, but Diet Prada roasted the apology video. Dolce & Gabbana later sued Liu and Schuyler for defamation, claiming significant damages due to setbacks in the Chinese market.
Diet Prada's Evolution and Divisiveness
Since the #DGTheShitShow posts, Diet Prada has expanded and become more divisive. They now cover fashion, pop culture, politics, and social justice. While they have gained a large following, they also face criticism for hypocrisy, bias, and failures in "doing the work." Liu and Schuyler find themselves caught between popular pressures and power players with deep pockets, including the lawsuit from Dolce & Gabbana.
The Lawsuit and Its Implications
The lawsuit raises questions about Diet Prada's responsibility for Dolce & Gabbana's losses in China. Some argue that the fiasco should be a wake-up call for international brands to be aware of Chinese cultural sensibilities. Others believe that Diet Prada's actions contributed to the brand's downfall. The case highlights the power and influence of social media in shaping public opinion and holding brands accountable.
Diet Prada's Mission and Impact
Diet Prada aims to call out copycat design and expose fashion foul play. They have a large following, including celebrities and industry insiders. Fashion historian Bronwyn Cosgrave called Diet Prada "the Banksy of fashion," praising their ruthlessness. The account was launched in 2014 by Lindsey Schuyler and Tony Liu, who initially remained anonymous. They name and shame brands and designers by juxtaposing photos of new designs with older, similar designs. Diet Prada also aims to root out misogyny, racism, and model abuse in the industry.
Key Controversies and Call-Outs
Diet Prada has called out Kim Kardashian, made Prada apologize for blackface tchotchkes, and criticized Christian Siriano's gowns. The most notable controversy is the ongoing feud with Dolce & Gabbana, which led to the cancellation of the brand's Shanghai show.
Copying, Referencing, and Re-Appropriation in Fashion
The article explores the complex issues of copying, referencing, and re-appropriation in fashion. It discusses Elaine Sturtevant's art of stealing and Andy Warhol's support of her work. The golden rule is to "punch up, not down," meaning it's acceptable to critique those in power but not to exploit marginalized groups. Cultural appropriation has gained attention in recent years, and artists and designers are now more cautious about borrowing from other cultures.
The Role of Critics and the Fear of Cancellation
Critics now have the power to make or break careers, and artists and designers are afraid of being "canceled." Diet Prada has been criticized for its selective coverage and personal biases. However, fashion, like fine art, is inherently subjective and emotional.
Balancing Experimentation and Ethical Practices
While it's important to counter the fashion industry's tendency to steal from minorities and smaller brands, killing all desire to experiment is risky. There should be a balance between ethical practices and creative freedom.
The Future of Fashion Criticism
Policing an art form like fashion is not an exact science. It requires empathy, a sense of right and wrong, and common sense. It's important to identify who is benefiting from appropriation and to ensure that the work feels new rather than derivative.
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