Dermaplaning is a minimally invasive cosmetic procedure that offers a path to smoother, younger-looking skin. It involves gently scraping away the top layers of the skin to reduce the appearance of acne scars, pitted skin, fine lines, and unwanted facial hair, often referred to as "peach fuzz." This article provides a comprehensive guide to dermaplaning, covering everything from how to prepare for the procedure to essential aftercare practices that will help you maintain a radiant complexion.
What is Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is a skin resurfacing procedure designed to give the skin a smoother appearance. During the treatment, a trained aesthetician uses a handheld scalpel with an angled blade to gently exfoliate the skin's surface. This process removes dead skin cells and fine vellus hair, revealing brighter, more even-toned skin.
Facial "shaving" has been used as an anti-aging treatment for decades. Dermaplaning is a quick, non-invasive skin treatment that typically takes 30 to 45 minutes, making it easy to fit into a busy schedule. No preparation time or significant recovery time is needed, allowing individuals to return to their daily activities immediately after the session.
Benefits of Dermaplaning
Dermaplaning offers a multitude of benefits, making it a popular choice for those seeking skin rejuvenation:
- Exfoliation: As an exfoliation type, it effectively removes dead skin cells, exposing younger, brighter skin. Removing dead cells is necessary to expose new ones to do their jobs properly.
- Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Dermaplaning can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, resulting in a more youthful complexion.
- Improves Skin Texture: It helps to smooth dry and uneven skin tones by eliminating the cracked epidermis.
- Unclogs Pores: By removing dead skin cells, dermaplaning can help unclog pores, reducing the likelihood of acne breakouts.
- Enhances Product Absorption: Dermaplaning removes the top layer of dead skin cells, allowing serums and moisturizers to seep into the skin more effectively. This means that skincare products can penetrate deeper and dramatically improve results.
- Smoother Makeup Application: By creating a smooth surface, dermaplaning allows for a more flawless makeup application.
- Removes Peach Fuzz: The treatment removes fine facial hairs (peach fuzz), leaving the skin clear and soft. Sebum and dirt can get trapped in these hairs, leading to breakouts.
- Reduces Acne Scarring: Dermaplaning can help reduce the appearance of depressed acne scars.
- Enhances Radiance: Eliminating dead skin cells removes dullness, resulting in a more radiant complexion.
Preparing for Your Dermaplaning Appointment
Proper preparation is essential for achieving the best results from your dermaplaning session while minimizing potential irritation. Here's a step-by-step guide to preparing your skin:
Read also: Best Dermaplaning Practices
- Start with a Clean Face: Arrive at your appointment with clean, makeup-free skin. Removing dirt, oil, and impurities ensures the dermaplaning blade glides smoothly across your skin without tugging or irritation. Cleanse your face thoroughly before heading to the appointment. Avoid applying heavy products like moisturizers or oils after cleansing unless directed by your provider.
- Hydrate Your Skin: Hydration is key to ensuring your skin is soft and supple during dermaplaning. Well-hydrated skin reduces the risk of irritation and allows the blade to exfoliate more effectively. Drink plenty of water in the days leading up to your appointment. Use a lightweight, water-based moisturizer or serum with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid to prep your skin.
- Avoid Exfoliating Products: Dermaplaning already provides deep exfoliation, so using additional exfoliants beforehand can make your skin overly sensitive. Discontinue the use of scrubs, AHAs, BHAs, or glycolic acid at least 5-7 days before your appointment.
- Stop Using Retinoids: Stop using retinoids or retinol-based products a few days before to avoid irritation or redness.
- Protect Your Skin From Sun Exposure: Sunburned or irritated skin cannot be treated safely with dermaplaning. Avoid excessive sun exposure or tanning beds for at least one to two weeks before your session. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher daily to protect your skin from UV damage.
- Skip Other Treatments Beforehand: To prevent over-exfoliation or irritation, avoid scheduling other skincare treatments like waxing, chemical peels, or microdermabrasion within a week of dermaplaning.
- Avoid Heavy Creams and Oils: Thick creams and oils can create a barrier on the skin that hinders the precision of the dermaplaning blade. Opt for lightweight, water-based serums if hydration is needed before your session. Ensure your skin is completely dry after cleansing, as leftover moisture can interfere with the blade’s glide.
- Check for Skin Conditions or Wounds: If you have active acne, cold sores, cuts, or open wounds on your face, it’s best to reschedule your appointment until your skin has healed completely. Treating compromised skin increases the risk of irritation or infection. If you have any active acne or lesions, please do not bring them to your appointment. It would be dangerous to shave over an open incision with a sterile scalpel blade.
- Inform Your Provider About Medications: Let your provider know if you’re taking any medications that may affect your skin’s sensitivity, such as isotretinoin (Accutane) or blood thinners. This helps them tailor the treatment for maximum safety and effectiveness. Those taking isotretinoin, a prescription medication used to treat severe acne, should wait 6 months after they stop taking it to try dermaplaning.
- Avoid Waxing: Those who had planned on getting their facial hair waxed might cancel their appointment if they so choose, as waxing right before dermaplaning is not necessary or recommended. The procedure itself removes vellus facial hair along with dead skin cells, making waxing redundant.
The Dermaplaning Procedure: What to Expect
When you go in for a dermaplaning procedure, here’s what you’ll experience:
- Consultation: Prior to the procedure, a consultation must be done to discuss the skin characteristics with the provider before performing a dermaplaning treatment. This discussion will help the professional determine the skin type and color, as well as collect any medical history relevant to the treatment.
- Relaxation: You’ll be asked to lie back in a comfy chair or on a table that reclines, designed to keep you relaxed throughout the session.
- Cleansing: The professional handling your treatment will start by thoroughly cleaning your skin. This step gets rid of any dirt, oil, or debris that’s built up, making sure your face is primed for the procedure.
- Dermaplaning: The main tool used in dermaplaning is a handheld scalpel with an angled blade. Your specialist will use this to gently scrape across the surface of your skin. They’ll cover your entire face, working on one small section at a time. Proper technique involves holding the patient’s skin taut and the blade at a 45-degree angle, gently moving it back and forth. The professional will work in small sections, from the lower part of the neck, upwards, then down again, often going against the direction of hair growth for a closer shave.
- Post-Procedure Care: Once finished, the practitioner often applies a moisturizer to the skin prior to providing them with a post-procedure care guide. A smoothing, calming, and hydrating toner may also be applied.
Although it might sound a bit intense, it’s actually a gentle process. You might feel a slight tingling sensation, but there shouldn’t be any pain involved. Some technicians offer a numbing spray to minimize any potential discomfort.
Dermaplaning Aftercare: Essential Tips for Optimal Results
Proper aftercare is vital following any dermaplaning facial treatment. The exfoliation process leaves skin highly sensitized and vulnerable. Dermaplaning aftercare is the difference between a fleeting glow and weeks of smooth, light-reflective skin. Following aftercare tips is essential for optimal results, as the right steps will keep pores clear, minimize irritation, and help active ingredients perform better in the days ahead.
The First 24-72 Hours: Gentle Care is Key
In the first 24-72 hours, your complexion is especially receptive and vulnerable. Treat your face like delicate silk. Your goals: keep the barrier intact, avoid pore-clogging, and prevent UV-triggered discoloration.
- Gentle Cleansing: Wash once at night with a gentle cleanser that is pH-balanced and sulfate-free to avoid irritation and maintain your skin’s moisture barrier. Opt for gentle cleansers to avoid irritating the skin’s surface.
- Hydration: Moisturize generously with a gentle moisturizer containing barrier-repair ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, squalane, or glycerin. Hydrating serums with hyaluronic acid or panthenol are also beneficial. Maintain proper hydration, both by using hydrating serums and moisturizers and by drinking plenty of water.
- Sun Protection: Protect with a broad-spectrum SPF (SPF 30+) whenever exposed to daylight, even indoors near windows, to shield your skin from harmful UV rays. Mineral sunscreens (SPF 30+) with zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide are recommended. Choose a broad spectrum sunscreen to ensure protection against both UVA and UVB rays. Apply generously and reapply every two hours when outdoors.
- Avoid Makeup: Avoid makeup for 24 hours if possible. Post-dermaplaning skin temporarily loses some of its protective buffer against irritants. If you need coverage after 24 hours, mineral-based foundations often sit beautifully on freshly smoothed skin.
- Skip Certain Products: Strong exfoliants (scrubs, AHA/BHA toners), retinoids, and benzoyl peroxide can sting and create micro-flaking right now, which dulls your glow and may trigger breakouts. Avoid harsh products that can strip the skin’s natural oils or damage the skin’s surface, such as retinoids, AHAs/BHAs (glycolic, lactic, salicylic), scrubs, microdermabrasion devices, and alcohol-heavy toners for the first 72 hours.
Days 3-7: Reintroducing Actives Gradually
As tightness or tingling fades, you can start layering targeted benefits. Hydration remains the star.
Read also: Dermaplaning Skincare
- Antioxidants: You can introduce mild antioxidants if your skin feels calm. If you tolerate vitamin C well, a low- to mid-strength formulation can help support brightness and even tone, but patch test first and skip it if you notice stinging.
- Continue to Avoid: Continue to avoid retinoids, glycolic/lactic/salicylic acids, and physical scrubs until the end of Day 3.
- Reintroduce Actives Slowly: From Day 4 onward, most people can slowly reintroduce actives they were using previously. However, it is important to wait at least a week before reintroducing glycolic acid, salicylic acid, laser treatments, or other facial treatments such as chemical peels or microdermabrasion. Start with a lower frequency (every other night) and build up based on comfort. If you use retinoids, begin with a pea-sized amount and buffer with moisturizer.
General Aftercare Tips
- Avoid the Sun: Protection from sun exposure should feature highly in the dermaplaning aftercare. Avoid direct sun exposure, as UVA penetrates clouds and windows, and unprotected exposure after resurfacing can lead to uneven pigment, irritation, and compromise your treatment results.
- Use Fragrance-Free Moisturizers: Use fragrance-free moisturizers to minimize the risk of irritation.
- Avoid Too Much Heat: Avoid too much heat for three days.
- No Exfoliation Needed: Don’t exfoliate since dermaplaning is already an extreme exfoliation itself.
- Avoid Chlorinated Pools and Hot Tubs: Don’t swim in a chlorinated pool or hot tub for at least a week after the treatment.
- Avoid Exercising: Avoid exercising for 24 hours.
- Avoid Other Treatments: Avoid other treatments for at least two weeks.
- Cleanse Daily: Make sure to cleanse the skin daily, using only water or a very mild face cleanser.
- Pat Dry: Pat the face gently with a towel to dry it rather than rubbing it.
- Choose the Right Products: Choose creams and serums rich in hyaluronic acid and vitamin C. If you’re acne-prone, avoid pore-clogging heavy oils during this window; choose non-comedogenic moisturizers instead.
- Stay Hydrated: Stay hydrated and avoid alcohol, which dehydrates skin.
Who Should Avoid Dermaplaning?
While dermaplaning is generally safe for most skin types, it’s not recommended for individuals with inflammatory skin conditions such as:
- Acne
- Rosacea
- Psoriasis
- Eczema
- Sunburn
Potential Side Effects
After the procedure, some redness in the face may subside in a day or two afterward. Mild redness is common after treatment but usually subsides within a day or two.
How Often Should You Get Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning can be done as frequently as every 2 weeks. Most people schedule sessions every 4-6 weeks to keep texture refined and skincare absorption optimized. Regular dermaplaning helps maintain smoother skin and a radiant skin appearance, making it a popular choice for those seeking ongoing skin enhancement.
DIY Dermaplaning: Is It Safe?
Dermaplaning is only for some, and only those with the training and experience to conduct it safely and effectively should attempt it. Under any circumstances, do not attempt “Do It Yourself” dermaplaning methods. Attempting this at home is not without risk. Very sharp razor blades and faces do not mix unless you are a trained professional.
Read also: Learn how spa therapy can enhance your overall health.
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