Uromastyx, also known as spiny-tailed lizards or mastigures, are a group of lizards native to North Africa and the Middle East. Among the various species, the Uromastyx geyri, or Red Saharan Uromastyx, is a captivating reptile that originates from the arid regions of the Sahara Desert. Known for their striking colors and herbivorous diet, these lizards have become increasingly popular in the pet trade. However, their specific needs require dedicated attention and care to ensure their health and longevity. This article provides a comprehensive guide to Uromastyx geyri diet and care, drawing on expert knowledge and best practices.
Understanding Uromastyx Geyri
Uromastyx geyri are medium-sized lizards, typically reaching 12-16 inches in length. They have a robust, flattened body and a spiky tail that serves as both a defense mechanism and a fat storage site. These diurnal lizards are most active during the day and require high levels of heat and ultraviolet-B light to thrive and display their full colors. In the wild, Uromastyx are true heat-lovers, often found basking during the hottest parts of the day. They are also terrestrial lizards, skilled at climbing rock stacks and burrowing.
Housing
Enclosure Size
Although Uromastyx lizards vary widely in size, a good rule of thumb is to plan for no smaller than a 4’L x 2’W x 2’H / 1.2 x 0.6 x 0.6m enclosure. Larger species however, such as U. aegyptia, will need something much larger - at least 8’x4’x4′ / 2.4 x 1.2 x 1.2m. A spacious enclosure is crucial. A minimum of a 4-foot long, 18 inch, and 18 inch high terrarium is recommended for a single adult. Larger is always better, especially if you plan to house a pair (which requires careful planning and observation).
Enclosure Type
The enclosure should be front-opening for easy access and have excellent ventilation. Ideally, the top should be mesh rather than solid. Alternative dimensions should have at least the same amount of floor space as the recommended dimensions.
Substrate
Replicating their natural desert environment is key. Uromastyx are healthiest and happiest when they are housed on a substrate (a.k.a. “bedding”) that imitates the conditions of their natural habitat. In northern Africa and the Middle East, that habitat is typically sand or very sandy soil. So the substrate in your uromastyx’s enclosure should be fine sand or sandy soil, packed at least 4” deep - preferably deeper, if at all possible. In a 4x2x2 enclosure, that takes at least 2.5 cubic ft of substrate.
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Here are some naturalistic substrate options appropriate for using with uromastyx:
- Jurassic Natural Australian Desert Dragon Habitat
- Jurassic Reptile Substrate
- Zoo Med ReptiSand
- Exo Terra Desert Sand
- Play sand
Alternatively, you can also make your own DIY desert mix of 50% play sand, 30% organic topsoil, and 20% Zoo Med Excavator Clay.
Temperature Gradient
Uromastyx are cold-blooded and require a temperature gradient to properly regulate their body temperature. A significant variation between day and night parameters is essential.
- Basking Spot: The most crucial element: a basking spot with a surface temperature of 120-130°F (49-54°C) is critical for digestion and overall health. Use a high-wattage heat lamp positioned to provide focused heat. 100w PAR38 halogen flood bulbs should be plenty to achieve those basking temperatures if you build up the basking platform to be about 10-12” below the heat lamp. However, if you notice that they’re getting too hot, dial it down with a plug-in lamp dimmer or reduce the height of the platform. If your basking area is too cool, you will need higher wattage bulbs.
- Warm Side: The warm side of the enclosure should ideally range between 90-100°F (32-38°C). Day temperature should have a hotspot that reaches 110-130°F with the cool end of the cage being 80-90°F.
- Cool Side: The cool side of the enclosure should remain at 75-80°F (24-27°C). Night temperatures should drop to 70-80°F.
To measure the basking surface temperature, use an infrared thermometer (a.k.a. temperature gun). To passively track basking temperature, use a digital probe thermometer, with the probe placed on the basking surface under the heat source.
UVB Lighting
Providing adequate UVB is vital for proper calcium absorption and bone health. Uromastyx housed indoors need heat and ultraviolet-B light provided 10-14 hours per day depending on the time of year.
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To provide appropriate UVB to a sun-loving uromastyx, use the Arcadia Dragon 14% bulb, roughly half the length of the enclosure and placed on the warm side. The bulb should be mounted in a reflective T5 HO fixture such as the Arcadia ProT5 or Vivarium Electronics T5 HO fixture.
The basking area should be placed to put the uromastyx’s back at the appropriate distance:
- UVB mounted over mesh: 8-13” below UVB lamp
- UVB mounted under mesh: 14-20” below UVB lamp
(These recommendations are approximations based on available data. For best results, use a Solarmeter 6.5 to determine the best placement to achieve a UVI of 4.0-6.0 in the basking area.)
General Illumination
Bright light with a color temperature of around 6500K is strongly correlated with optimal mental and physical health in uromastyx. Uromastyx with additional “daylight” lighting in their enclosure are markedly more alert and active than those without, as well as demonstrating better appetite and more natural behaviors.
Full-spectrum lighting is not the same as reptile UVB lighting, so you will need two separate lamps. The Arcadia Jungle Dawn LED Bar and Bio Dude Glow & Grow are both excellent lamps for this purpose.
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Humidity
Uromastyx require very low ambient humidity levels - around 20-30%, as measured by a digital probe hygrometer with the probe placed on the ground on the cool side of the enclosure. Humidity levels that are consistently higher than that can make your uromastyx sick!
However, uromastyx do benefit from having access to some kind of humid “burrow” in their enclosure. This is usually a burrow they’ve dug out for themselves in the substrate, so it’s advisable to periodically add water to the substrate to help prevent burrows from collapsing and make sure the burrows maintain healthy humidity levels. The top 1” or so of substrate should always be dry, however.
NOTE: Certain coastal Uromastyx species prefer more humid conditions than average. U. yemenensis needs an average humidity of around 50%, and U. macfadyeni needs it to be around 30-35%.
Hides and Enrichment
Provide multiple hides on both the warm and cool sides of the enclosure. Stacked rocks, cork bark, and commercially available reptile hides are all suitable options. Include some sturdy, climbable rocks to add enrichment.
Diet and Nutrition
Uromastyx are true herbivores, which means that they need an entirely plant-based diet to get the nutrition that their bodies need. How often and how much they need to eat depends on age. Juvenile uromastyx should be fed daily, as much as they can eat. Adults should be fed 4-5x/week.
The key to providing a healthy, balanced diet for your uromastyx is VARIETY! The uromastyx diet should be a mix of dark green leafy vegetables and died peas, lentils, and seeds. Dark leafy greens (Romaine, escarole, kale, cabbage, turnip greens, collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, cilantro should be offered several times weekly to daily. A bowl of dry split peas, lentils, small beans, and millet can be left in the cage at all times.
Safe Greens
- Collard greens
- Cactus pad
- Spring mix
- Arugula
- Kale
- Pea shoots
- Alfalfa
- Bok choy
- Carrot greens
- Spinach
- Dandelion greens
- Hibiscus leaves
- Endive
- Clover sprouts
More options for leafy greens to feed to your uromastyx can be found at The Tortoise Table.
Seed Options
Interestingly, Uromastyx also need seeds (ex: lentil, white millet) as a regular part of their diet. These provide an important source of protein and fat. Offer them 1x/week.
Treats
Edible flowers like dandelions, rose petals, clover, hibiscus, and squash blossoms make great treats. Fruits like papaya, figs, apple, prickly pear, berries, or cherries can also be offered as a rare treat. Make sure that flowers are free of pesticides before feeding.
Supplements
To ensure that your uromastyx is getting all of the vitamins and minerals that they need, you will need a calcium powder and a multivitamin powder - or a good all-in-one like Arcadia Earthpro A or Repashy Superveggie. For best results, use as directed by the manufacturer.
Also add a pinch of organic bee pollen powder or granules to your pet’s salad once a week.
Drinking Water
Uromastyx are well adapted to living in drought conditions and get most of the water they need from their food. Uromastyx generally tame down well, but it’s important to remember that each is its own individual, and some tame faster than others, while some never become tame at all.
Health and Husbandry
Regular Handling
With consistent, gentle handling, Red Saharan Uromastyx can become quite docile. However, always prioritize their comfort and avoid aggressive handling.
Captive-bred uromastyx are likely to be more tameable than wild-caught individuals, and juveniles are generally much more skittish than adults. After bringing your uromastyx home, leave it alone for 2 weeks or so to settle in. If your new pet hasn’t eaten by the time the 2 weeks are over, do not handle and make an appointment with an experienced reptile vet.
Introduce yourself with food via your fingers or soft-tipped feeding tongs. Meanwhile, make sure to get your hands in the enclosure daily for spot cleaning, water changes, etc. This will help get the dragon further used to you.
Once your uromastyx regularly takes food from your hand, encourage it to climb onto your hand. For example, place the food so it has to climb onto you to get it.
To pick up your uromastyx, always gently scoop it up from below and support as much of its body as possible. Never approach quickly or from above, as this is predatory behavior that will scare your pet. As you handle your uromastyx, keep your movements slow, and only loosely restrain it (if at all).
Shedding
Uromastyx will shed their skin periodically. Ensure proper humidity and a rough surface (like rocks) to aid in the shedding process.
Quarantine
Always quarantine new animals for at least 30-60 days to observe for any signs of illness.
Vet Visits
Regular annual checkups with a herp-experienced veterinarian are important for preventative care and early detection of health issues.
Medication
Unless you know this trick, you will be frustrated trying to orally medicate a uromastyx. Their jaws close extremely tightly and the teeth interdigitate in a manner that makes them very resistant to the usual tactic for opening a lizard’s mouth (i.e., inserting a speculum at the corner or tip of the jaw). However, all the commonly kept uromastyx lizards have a small gap between their two front teeth that is large enough to accommodate the passage of a small catheter.
Cleanliness
Feces and urates should be removed daily, and contaminated substrate should be scooped out and replaced. Substrate should be completely replaced once every 3-4 months.
Sick or wounded uromastyx should not be kept on loose substrate.