The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food: A Culinary and Cultural Artifact of the Soviet Era

"The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food" (Книга о вкусной и здоровой пище), often simply called “Kniga” ("book") because it was one of the only cookbooks in the Soviet Union, stands as a fascinating testament to Soviet culinary practices and a window into the socio-political landscape of the USSR. First published in 1939, the cookbook was curated by the USSR Ministry of Food and People's Commissar Anastas Mikoyan. It wasn't merely a collection of recipes; it was a comprehensive guide encompassing the basics of healthy eating, information about Soviet food products, and practical advice on kitchen management and etiquette. The cookbook was published by the Institute of Nutrition at the Soviet Academy of Medical Science.

Aims and Content

Beyond its culinary function, "The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food" served as a powerful tool for Soviet state propaganda. The different republics of the Soviet Union are represented in the book through national recipes and photographs, relating to the propaganda metaphor Friendship of the People. The book aimed to promote the idea of socialist abundance and a high quality of life under the Soviet regime. Soviet-era publications included recipes, articles about nutrition and hygiene, instructions on cleaning a kitchen and setting a table, and guidance on menu planning.

Visual elements played a crucial role, with photographs showcasing factories, shops, working women, abundant food displays, and manufactured food items. The book also featured advertisements for manufactured food items.

Publication History and Editions

The cookbook was re-edited and re-published multiple times, with updated editions appearing almost every year. The book has been most recently published in 2025 as The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food: Soviet Recipes. Since 1952, approximately 8 million copies of the book have been printed. Key editions include those published in 1939, 1952, 1965, and 1984, each reflecting the evolving political climate and social priorities of the Soviet Union.

1939 Edition: Consolidating Stalin's Rule

The initial 1939 edition heavily emphasized the achievements of the Bolshevik Party in revolutionizing the food industry. It drew comparisons between the Soviet system and Western capitalist countries, as well as Tsarist Russia, to highlight the perceived superiority of the Soviet approach. The goal was to consolidate Stalin’s rule and justify the Great Purge (1936-1938). The book contained photographs of working women which emphasized their favourable working conditions under Bolshevik rule. Quotes praising Joseph Stalin and the Bolshevik Party, often taken from speeches by Anastas Mikoyan, were placed before each chapter of recipes.

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1950s Editions: Materialism and Omitted Minorities

Following World War II, the editions of the 1950s focused on abundance and materialism. In 1952, 1953 and 1954 editions each sold five hundred thousand copies. The authorities’ attitudes changed towards many Soviet minorities, as some were labelled “enemies of the peoples”, mostly due to accusations of collaboration with Nazi Germany. References to Jewish sweets and Kalmyk tea preparation disappeared, reflecting the changing attitudes towards Soviet minorities.

A quote by Stalin appeared at the beginning of the book: “The uniqueness of our revolution is that she gave to the nation not only freedom, but also materialistic benefits and the opportunity of a prosperous and cultural life.” There were fewer photos of factories and working women, and more of fresh food in abundance, and of manufactured food items. The imagery emphasized abundance and materialism, although this contrasted sharply with the reality of food shortages and limited access to certain items for ordinary citizens. As Anya von Bremzen noted, the discrepancy between the book's idealized images and the scarcity in shops made its "myth of plenty especially poignant".

1965 Edition: De-Stalinization and Modernization

The 1965 edition, which sold 700,000 copies, reflected the de-Stalinization efforts initiated by Nikita Khrushchev. Stalin’s quote was removed. The edition showcased new Soviet kitchen devices aimed at easing the burdens of Soviet housewives. It also promoted the idea of dining in canteens, cafeterias, and restaurants, aiming to "free the housewife from the kitchen, at least on festive days.”

1984 Edition: Family and Russian Culture

The 1984 edition differed significantly in its imagery. While still praising the Communist Party and providing nutritional information, it lacked photos of factories and working women. The authorities realized that “[u]npaid domestic labor of millions of Soviet women was essentially the cheapest means of feeding the population." There was an idealisation of “the family in the construction of socialism”. The photos depicting food in abundance were smaller.

This edition marked the appearance of Russian culture, with depictions of tableware and the Samovar. During Brezhnev’s rule (1964-1982) there was an interest in Slavic peasant lifestyle, which could be one reason for the depiction of Russian peasant tableware in this 1984 edition of The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food.

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Impact and Legacy

Despite its propagandistic elements, "The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food" became a cherished household item. People bought these cookbooks for themselves or as presents, and children would flip through them. Even when leaving the Soviet Union, or a post-Soviet country in the 1990s, people would take an edition of these cookbooks with them since it became “a kitchen bible so cherished, people lugged it with them even as they fled the State that published it”. Soviet books and movies, even with their propaganda, or maybe because of it, were a means for Soviet citizens to escape their everyday lives, which were often filled with struggles and (not always) greyness. Soviet books and movies were a means to dream the Soviet dream of socialist abundance. It played a significant role in shaping Soviet culinary culture and introducing new foods and cooking methods to the masses. Mikoyan’s foods became Russian foods. The book offered nutritional guidelines, advertisements for pre-packaged foods, advice on food storage and table manners, and hundreds of recipes.

The book's recipes, ranging from lavish dishes like sturgeon in jelly to everyday staples like cabbage stuffed with meat, reflected the diversity of Soviet cuisine. It incorporated dishes from various Soviet republics, such as palov from Uzbekistan, borscht from Ukraine, and kharcho from Georgia.

The Discrepancy Between Ideal and Reality

The lavish spreads depicted in "The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food" often stood in stark contrast to the reality of food scarcity and shortages faced by many Soviet citizens. This discrepancy made the book a source of both inspiration and frustration. Every cookbook sells a fantasy, of course, but it’s the discrepancy between the abundance on its pages and the absence in the shops that makes this particular volume so jarring. Those who befriended others with access, like butchers, could sometimes get treats, like meat.

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