Syrian hamsters, often called “teddy bear hamsters” or “golden hamsters,” are a common small animal found in almost all pet stores. Despite being a staple childhood pet, it can be hard to find a complete care guide for hamsters that contains accurate and comprehensive care instructions. This guide attempts to provide a majority of the necessary information for Syrian hamster care in one place for new hamster owners and current hamster owners looking to learn more.
Understanding Syrian Hamster Dietary Needs
Syrian hamsters are omnivores and require a higher protein diet than other small pets. You cannot use hay or high fiber seed mixes as their main source of food. Ideal food makeup indicated on the nutrition labels (also called the “guaranteed analysis”) should be as close to the following numbers as possible. For younger hamsters, aim for the higher amount of protein as it supports healthy growth. For hamsters older than one year of age, aim for the lower amount of protein.
Key Nutritional Components
Syrians NEED 18-20% protein (more for pregnant females and babies), 4-6% fat, and 8-10% fiber in their diet. They also need a lot of VARIETY - pellet foods can be great but hamsters need more in their daily diet.
Commercial Hamster Foods
Blocks should be the base of their diet, supplemented with a quality seed mix a couple times a week. Additionally, you’ll want to supplement the dry food with fresh fruits and vegetables along with the occasional high protein snack. Not all treats come in the form of fresh or dried food.
Commercial Hamster Foods I Recommend:
Hazel Hamster
Read also: Healthy Dwarf Hamster Food
- First five ingredients: ground wheat, toasted wheat, flaked peas, soybean meal, whole corn
- 16% protein, 4% fat, 8% fiber
Vitakraft Vita Prima Sunscription Hamster & Gerbil Formula
- First five ingredients: wheat middlings, oats, soybean hulls, dehydrated alfalfa meal, wheat
- 13% protein, 4% fat, 14% fiber
Vitakraft VitaNature Hamster & Gerbil Food
- First five ingredients: oats, wheat, heat-processed barley, timothy meal, soybean hulls
- 15% protein, 4% fat, 13% fiber
Oxbow Essentials Healthy Handfuls Hamster & Gerbil Food
- First five ingredients: timothy meal, pearled barley, oat groat, linseed meal, canola meal
- 15% protein, 4.5% fat, 10-15% fiber
Vitakraft VitaSmart Complete Nutrition Hamster Food
- First five ingredients: soybean hulls, wheat, flaked corn, oats, dehulled soybean meal
- 16% protein, 3% fat, 10% fiber
Foods to Avoid
- Any seed mixes that have corn in the first five ingredients
- Any seed mixes that have an excess of fatty seeds (eg. sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, soybeans, etc.)
- Any seed mixes that have ingredients like lentils, any kind of legumes, and potatoes
- Any kind of Kaytee brand food (contains a lot of corn and questionable seeds)
- Carefresh Complete Menu, Grreat Choice, and All Living Things Hamster & Gerbil Food (contains a lot of corn)
Weekly Diet Example
- 24/7 supply of my homemade seed mix
- A serving (about one tablespoon) of fresh veggies three times a week
- A serving (about half of a tablespoon) of a protein supplement three times a week (eg. mealworms, cooked chicken, etc.)
Species-Appropriate Feeding for Hamsters
There are different species of hamsters; the most commonly owned ones being the Syrian Hamster, the Campbell Dwarf Hamster, the Winter White Dwarf Hamster, the Chinese Dwarf Hamster, and the Roborovski Dwarf Hamster. Each hamster species originates from distinct regions, and their dietary preferences and tolerances vary significantly. A species-appropriate diet should mimic their natural food resources in the wild.
Read also: The Hoxsey Diet
For instance, the Syrian hamster hails from the Middle East, where they are known to hoard several pounds of grains. The Roborovski hamster, on the other hand, originates from Mongolia and has been observed to predominantly consume insects in their diet.
Certain hamsters, like the Chinese hamster, might have a genetic predisposition to conditions like diabetes, requiring a distinct dietary approach compared to their less susceptible counterparts. Additionally, a pregnant hamster's nutritional requirements differ from those of a non-pregnant hamster. When you factor in personal preference, stage of life, and genetic disposition; there is no one-size-fits-all diet for hamsters.
Wild Diets of Various Hamster Species
Syrian Hamsters: Found in the Middle East, Syrian hamsters have been observed to store several pounds of grain. In the wild, they are found to eat wheat, barley, chickpeas, lentils, melons, tomatoes, cucumbers, hibiscus, other grains, seeds, and vegetables. They also eat insects in the wild, particularly ants, flies, cockroaches, and wasps. Wild Syrians get an adequate diet from foods varying in caloric intake They eat approximately 5-12g of feed a day regardless of gender. Furthermore, they exhibit a greater tolerance for grains, cereals, vegetables, and fruits in their diet.
Chinese Dwarf Hamsters: Chinese Hamsters are primarily found in Central to East Asia. They have a preference for arid, semi-arid grasslands, grasslands, and semi desserts. In the wild, Chinese Hamsters have been found to consume grains, legumes, leaves, grasses, shoots, nuts, and insects. Their hoards could contain up to 500g of grain.
Campbell Dwarf Hamsters: The Campbell Dwarf hamster is native to the steppes of Kazakhstan, Manchuria, and Northern China. Their diet varies amongst different parts depending on where the hamster was found. 51 species of plants have been identified in the diet of the Transhaikalia population, the most important including needle grassallium (the genus of flowering plants including chives, onions, and leeks), and the ever-blooming Iris. In the Tuva population, 2 of the most important plants are the cinquefoils and Aneurolepedium. They were also observed to eat insects such as beetles.
Read also: Walnut Keto Guide
Winter White Dwarf Hamsters: Winter Whites are a distant relative of the Syrian Hamster and have been traced to Siberia, China, and Mongolia. They have been collected from dry steppes, wheat, and alfalfa fields. Their diet in the wild consisted mainly of wild plants that were mostly grasses, but insects (particularly grasshoppers) were also eaten. They have also been known to feed on undigested grains in horse droppings in the winter.
Roborovski Dwarf Hamsters: Roborovski Dwarf Hamsters inhabit the steppes and semi-deserts of central Asia in areas with loose sand and limited vegetation. The summer diet of the Roborovskii consists almost entirely of the seeds of the desert like madwort, milkvetch, and sedges. When it is available to them in the wild, Roborovskis will also eat millet seeds. They will occasionally also have plant leaves and stems, but it is usually absent from a typical wild Roborovski diet. In the wild, plant seeds make up 70-90% of their diet. They are also omnivores. Some Roborovski hamsters were observed to have had a diet composed almost entirely of insects.
General Information About Hamster Diets
Hamsters are omnivores and eat grains, vegetables, and insects. They are hoarders and will hoard food in underground burrows to ensure a constant source of food. They typically do not overeat and do not increase the size and frequency of their meals beyond their usual levels even when offered more food. It has also been observed that while hamsters hoard more food when they experience a period of food deprivation, their food consumption still remains the same. They eat regularly, typically at 2-hour intervals throughout the day, and should have access to clean water at all times.
Hamsters, like other rodents, prefer foods that are familiar tasting to them. A study done by Turpin in 1991 showed that a hamster’s early experience with food will affect food choices made later in life. Hamsters rarely eat as they collect their food; instead preferring to hoard food in their pouches and emptying them in their nests. They also prefer to eat food from their hoard.
Addressing Dietary Limitations
While a species-specific diet formulated for your hamster’s age and nutritional needs is the most ideal, for most people it is challenging to find. If your hamster has no unique deficiencies or conditions to take note of, we recommend finding the highest quality diet you can. In laboratory conditions, different species of hamsters (such as the Chinese hamster) can be sustained on food created for hamsters.
In terms of taste, numerous hamster owners have noticed that their dwarf hamsters exhibit distinct food preferences compared to their Syrian hamsters. Syrian Hamsters for example may prefer a diet more rich in different types of cereals and have less of a palate for small seeds such as millet seeds.
Mainstream commercial food blends are available, with separate options for Syrians and Dwarfs. Although the overall nutritional content is typically similar, the ingredient lists often vary, with Syrian food mixes containing larger seeds and grains in contrast to Dwarf mixes which usually have smaller seeds like grass seeds.
Remember that a seed mix alone is not a complete diet, and fresh food and a good protein source are also important. We recommend choosing a seed mix that is free from questionable ingredients, and have very few whole ingredients. Avoid seed mixes where the only whole ingredients are sunflower seeds and millet seeds.
Additional Dietary Considerations
The Importance of Variety
Hamsters need a lot of variety in their daily diet. Pellet foods can be great but hamsters need more in their daily diet. I highly recommend that you make your own personal seed mix to ensure that your hamster is getting all that they need in their diet. I also highly recommend using a couple of different commercial brand foods to provide a healthy variety.
Wendell’s Wonder Food
In some cases, such as older hamsters with brittle teeth or for hamsters with health conditions that affect their teeth (such as hydrocephalus), it is recommended to make a mush using their lab blocks. The ethical breeders at Cheeks and Squeaks use a recipe they call Wendell’s Wonder Food.
- Bring water to a boil.
- Measure out chia in a heatproof, medium-sized mixing bowl.
- Pour boiling water over chia, stir.
- Let soak for 5 minutes, stir again.
- Add baby food, Vitaglow, and coconut oil to chia.
- Add Esbilac powder and brewer's yeast to bowl.
- Slowly add block powder, a few spoonfuls at a time.
- Mix in between each addition.
Water is Essential
Always provide fresh, clean water. Hamsters have delicate cheek pouches, so you need to be careful how you feed them. Hamsters should be fed daily, however, as they are nocturnal, the best feeding time for them is in the evening when they start to wake up. Fresh, clean water must always be available for your hamster. Make sure you check their water bottle frequently to make sure it always has water, and change the water daily to ensure that it is always fresh.
Water bottles should have their contents changed out everyday or every other day to prevent bacterial buildup. To avoid any sediment growth, scrub the inside of the water bottle at least once a week. Then fill the water bottle with regular water. Water bowls are also an option for owners as they can provide a more natural and ergonomic way for hamsters to drink water, but these have to be cleaned more often than bottles as they’re completely open to dust, bedding, and the hamsters themselves. To avoid some bedding or other debris from landing in the water, place it on an elevated platform in the cage.
Prohibited Foods
Do not allow hamsters to consume chocolate, caffeine, or alcohol. These ingredients are toxic and can cause death or serious illness.
Habitat and Enrichment
Housing Syrian Hamsters
Syrian hamsters need a lot of space to simulate the multitude of miles they’d run in search of food in the fields of their native home of Syria. The absolute minimum is 600 square inches of uninterrupted floor space, meaning that you cannot link up several smaller cages to achieve this. If your hamster frequently attempts to escape the cage or looks like they’re trying to climb the walls often, it’s a sign that they need even more space. Note: Different countries may have larger minimum cage size requirements.
Important! Syrian hamsters must be housed alone. They are solitary creatures with known territorial behaviors that result in lethal fights between hamsters when housed together. The only exception is for mother hamsters and their pups, and even then, it is only until their territorial instincts develop.
Habitats should provide plenty of places for the hamster to hide, burrow under and chew. Hamsters feel more comfortable and safe in an area where they can easily hide, and other furnishings provide stimulation and the ability to explore and play. Note: A hamster that is chewing on bars cannot be dissuaded from chewing on bars by providing more chews since bar biting is a behavior born from stress and boredom. To stop bar biting, you must solve the underlying problem, such as a cage being too small or not having enough stimulation.
Bedding and Burrowing
Along with space to run, hamsters need to simulate digging and tunneling on their own to satisfy their urge to burrow underground. Plastic tubes cannot be used to substitute natural burrowing. You need at least 4 to 6 inches of bedding. Don’t worry if you see your hamster push most of their bedding to one corner, leaving other sides thin on bedding. This is nest-building behavior.
While it may be tempting to buy scented bedding to avoid any unpleasant smells, hamsters have sensitive respiratory systems, and it can cause inflammation on their skin. Dust-free aspen shavings are fine, but pine and cedar bedding contain harmful chemicals that are dangerous for your hamster’s lung health. You can mix and match any of these beddings. It is recommended that if you use aspen that you mix it with paper bedding, as unmixed aspen is very difficult for hamsters to burrow in.
Often in conjunction with nesting, burrowing is the act of building tunnels or digging through their bedding to get from one place to another. Hamsters have a natural instinct to burrow and enjoy burrowing as deep as they can, which is why it's important to provide them with ample bedding to burrow in. Not all hamsters feel a strong urge or desire to burrow and may prefer to build nests in a hide over burrowing deep into bedding, but it’s important to provide the bedding. They may prefer to burrow deep underneath their nest, or they may use the ample bedding to rearrange their habitat to their liking.
Sand Baths
Sand baths simulate portions of the Syrian hamster’s natural habitat. They use sand to clean themselves, and digging in the sand provides a source of stimulation and entertainment. It also can function as their litter if they’re trained. Unlike chinchillas and other large rodents that use sand baths, sand baths for Syrian hamsters can be left in the cage as part of their habitat. Do not use chinchilla bath dust or sand. Find a container to be the sand bath around five inches in diameter. You can use large, flat-bottom bowls, ceramic containers, large glass containers, or whatever else you can find that works for your hamster and fits in their habitat.
As many pet sand options are not safe for hamsters and their sensitive respiratory systems, you may want to use regular child-safe play sand, containing no chemicals, toxic dyes or added “effects.” Check the package of the sand to see if it has been heat-treated, also called “sanitized.” If it says it has been sanitized and the sand on the inside of the package is completely dry, you won’t need to sanitize it yourself. Otherwise, you will need to sanitize it yourself by placing some sand in a baking sheet or other oven-safe dish at 350 F (176 C) for as long as it takes for the sand to dry, waiting for it to cool and placing into a container to use for later. Note: Dusty sand is a common problem when buying generic play sand.
Wheels
Hamsters love their wheels, but they especially love properly sized ones. Six-inch wheels are too small for all Syrian hamsters, and it is better to provide a larger wheel for the hamster to grow into than a smaller wheel to grow out of. Syrians hamsters should have a 10 to 12-inch wheel. The metric of which size you should use is if your hamster is able to run with their back straight as some hamsters can be smaller or larger than average.
Important! Wire wheels should never be used under any circumstance as they cause a condition called bumblefoot, where their footpads develop sores as a result of tiny cuts or scrapes which leads to infection and inflammation. As well, a foot can get caught between the wires and hurt or break their legs.
Habitat Maintenance
With a proper cage size (minimum 600 square inches), you don’t need to change the bedding out every week. Spot cleaning entails cleaning their litter or pee corner, removing any soiled bedding, removing poop, and cleaning their nest of poop. This may include a once a week cleaning of their nest. Even with spot cleaning, you’ll still need to do a deep clean once every four to six weeks where you remove almost all the bedding and wipe away the cage to catch the dust. Hamsters have a sensitive respiratory system so making sure the cage is clear of dust is very important to their health. Preserve approximately 20-25% of unsoiled bedding to distribute across the cage and place where they typically nest. Note: Cages that are large enough and spot cleaned effectively can go many months without a deep clean.
If a hamster died of some contagious disease or parasite, you’ll need to clean the cage more thoroughly before using it for another hamster. Clean the cage using a diluted bleach solution of 10% bleach. Spray on the cage and let it soak for 10 minutes, then wipe with warm, soapy water.
Potty Training
To prevent or remove the smell of ammonia from your hamster’s habitat, train your hamster to use a litter dish or simply find their pee corner and clean it out, replacing it with clean litter. Hamsters can be potty trained as they naturally will pick one corner to pee in and stick with that. Buy a litter dish that is fit for their size (see earlier section on sand) and fill it with appropriate sand, granule bedding, or paper bedding. Warning! Do not use litter meant for other animals, such as cats, especially litter that is meant to clump together when peed in. Chinchilla bath dust is too fine for a Syrian hamster’s extremely sensitive respiratory system and should be avoided completely.
Enrichment Activities
Allowing your hamster to explore a safe area uninhibited is a great way to give your hamster most stimulation outside of their cage as well as a chance to play with your hamster. The iconic hamster ball is not to be used due to poor ventilation and the risk of injury from the ball itself, as limbs and nails can get caught on the ventilation holes available.
Handling and Taming
When you take your hamster home for the first time, they will be nervous and a little scared of the new environment, new smells, and new people. Syrian hamsters have very poor eyesight and rely on their sense of smell to identify people, things, and environments. For hamsters unfamiliar with human touch, letting them adjust for one day in their new environment can be helpful. Note: Hamsters adopted from ethical breeders are already tamed, which means that they are friendly to human touch and not likely to bite when approached or handled correctly.
Put your hand in their cage and allow them to get used to it. You can place a few treats in your hand to get them closer to you, but do not grab them when they’re not yet tame as it can result in biting and prolonging the taming process. It may take a few days before your hamster is comfortable getting close to your hand, but once they are, you can use a treat to lure them into standing in your hand. Additionally, place your scent in their habitat by taking some toilet paper or non-scented tissue paper and rubbing it on yourself. If you’re nervous about being bit or have been bit in the past, try using clean, thick fabric or leather gloves. Gloves can also make you more confident as you attempt to tame them.
Young and untamed hamsters are more likely to jump from your hands. If you need to remove them from their cage for a deep cage clean, place their carrier or a small box in their cage. Place the hamster in it or wait for them to enter on their own and close the carrier or box. Even when your hamster is tamed, they might be a little too excited or get scared at a new sound. Ideally, buying or crafting a “cuddle sack” or “cuddle pouch” from a heavy, double layered material is a great way to take them from room to room without fear of dropping them.
When picking up your hamster, it’s recommended you let them climb into your hands. Additionally, rather than plucking them out of their cage from above, you can pick them up by using both hands to scoop them up. Avoid chasing your hamster around the cage. While it’s okay to pick them up by their midsection with one hand, it may not foster a good relationship with your hamster to be plucked from their cage when they don’t want to interact with people, so prioritize training them to walk on your hand to take them out when they’re awake.
Young, non-social, or untamed hamsters may be difficult to pick up with the aforementioned methods. Scruffing is the act of immobilizing your hamster by pulling back the scruff around the neck and shoulders with one hand and lifting them up so they’re on their back, supported by the hand scruffing them so they’re not dangling. This is done to keep your hamster still as you clip their nails, check their teeth, or otherwise inspect their body. While it may look uncomfortable for the hamster, they are not in pain so long as the technique is performed correctly.
Natural Behaviors
Pouches
Hamsters have pockets in their cheeks called pouches that let them carry a lot of stuff from one place to another. In the wild, it would let them collect an array of seeds, berries and other foods found far from home and take it to their nest easily and efficiently. Hamsters will also use their cheeks to carry bedding.
Nesting
Prey creatures will build a warm nest to sleep in and hide their food. Plenty of bedding, hides, bendy bridges and other forms of cover give them options for where and how to build their nest. Nests are their safe place, so it’s important to be careful when disturbing their nest. For hamsters that do not come out of their nest often during your waking hours, it’s perfectly fine (and even recommended) that you dig or lure your hamster out of their nest to pick them up.