Rough green snakes ( Opheodrys aestivus) are slender, non-aggressive snakes native to North America. While once common, their populations are declining in many areas, making them a species of concern. These snakes are known for their gentle nature and striking green coloration, perfectly adapted for life among the leaves and twigs. Understanding their specific dietary needs is crucial for responsible care in captivity.
Natural Diet and Feeding Habits
Rough green snakes are insectivores, meaning their diet consists entirely of insects and worms. In their natural habitat, they consume a variety of prey, including:
- Crickets
- Moths
- Grasshoppers
- Caterpillars
- Fly larvae
- Spiders
- Worms
These snakes are primarily diurnal, meaning they are active during the daytime, and hunt for their food in the dense vegetation surrounding water sources. They are excellent climbers and spend most of their time above ground, searching for insects among the leaves and branches.
Nutritional Needs in Captivity
Replicating the natural diet of rough green snakes in captivity is essential for their health and well-being. While it's tempting to simply offer readily available insects, a varied and properly supplemented diet is crucial to prevent nutritional deficiencies.
Recommended Food Items
- Crickets: A staple food item for captive rough green snakes. Ensure the crickets are appropriately sized for the snake (roughly the same size as the snake's head).
- Grasshoppers: Another excellent option, providing variety and essential nutrients.
- Mealworms: Can be offered as part of a balanced diet, but should not be the sole food source. Mealworms have a tough exoskeleton, which can pose a risk of impaction if consumed in excess.
- Other Insects: Supplement the diet with other insects like moths, caterpillars, and fly larvae whenever possible to mimic their natural prey diversity.
Gut-Loading and Supplementation
- Gut-Loading: All prey items should be gut-loaded before being offered to rough green snakes. This means feeding the insects a nutritious diet, including a vitamin and mineral supplement, to enhance their nutritional value for the snake.
- Calcium Supplementation: Insects are naturally low in calcium, which is essential for bone health and other physiological functions in reptiles. Dust prey items with a calcium supplement before feeding. Repashy Calcium Plus LoD is a recommended option.
Feeding Schedule and Amounts
- Juveniles: Should be fed daily due to their rapid growth rate. Offer 2-3 insects roughly the same size as the snake's head per feeding.
- Adults: Can be fed 2-3 times per week, with the same amount of insects per feeding as juveniles.
- Feeding Time: Some keepers find that feeding at dawn or dusk can be more effective, as these are the times when the snakes are naturally more active.
- Quantity: Feed your green snakes twice on feeding day, the amount totaling what they will eat over a 20-minute period.
Addressing Feeding Problems
Rough green snakes are known to be shy and can be picky eaters, especially when newly acquired. Here are some tips to address feeding problems:
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- Minimize Stress: These snakes are easily stressed, so avoid excessive handling, especially when they are not eating.
- Provide a Secure Environment: Ensure the enclosure has plenty of greenery and hiding spots to make the snake feel secure. Green snakes that do not have lots of greenery to hide amongst will become stressed.
- Offer Food in a Quiet Setting: If the snake seems uninterested in food while you observe, leave the room and return after an hour or so.
- Be Patient: Newly acquired snakes may go on a hunger strike for the first few days. Resist the urge to check on them frequently. Put your new pet in its fully prepped habitat and leave it completely alone for the first 5 days. Offer food on day 3, and change water every other day only until your pet has fully settled in.
- Experiment with Different Foods: Try offering different types of insects to see what the snake prefers.
Water Requirements
Like the arboreal lizards, these snakes prefer drinking water droplets off of leaves rather than from a bowl or other groundwater source, so a daily misting of the greenery is recommended. In addition to some occasional misting, the snake's water dish will provide sufficient humidity.
Health Considerations Related to Diet
An improper diet can lead to various health problems in rough green snakes. It's crucial to be aware of these potential issues and take preventative measures.
Impaction
Feeding excessive amounts of insects with tough exoskeletons, such as mealworms, can lead to impaction, where the snake is unable to pass waste properly.
Nutritional Deficiencies
A diet lacking in essential vitamins and minerals can result in various health problems, including:
- Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Caused by a calcium deficiency, leading to weakened bones and other skeletal abnormalities.
- Vitamin Deficiencies: Can cause a range of symptoms, including skin problems, neurological issues, and weakened immune system.
Cryptosporidiosis
Cryptosporidium serpentis is a common disease that affects the digestive tract, making affected snakes unable to digest food properly. Sick snakes will vomit regurgitate undigested food items three to five days after eating. Unfortunately, captive green snakes may show no signs at all and simply fail to thrive, and then finally expire. Diagnosis involves a veterinarian performing a physical examination, a fecal exam and possibly a blood sample.
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Creating the Ideal Habitat
A well-maintained habitat is crucial for the health and well-being of rough green snakes, influencing their appetite and overall condition.
Enclosure Size and Setup
- The absolute minimum terrarium size for a single rough green snake is 18”L x 18”W x 36”H. Of course, larger is always better!
- A 30-gallon hexagonal tank is a good choice because it provides lots of space for greenery as well as hiding spots.
- The tank will need a very tight-fitting fine mesh screen lid to prevent escapes.
- Green snakes that do not have lots of greenery to hide amongst will become stressed.
- These snakes are small enough that live plants such as pothos, ivy, fake vines and even silk plants will work.
- The greenery should fill at least 50 percent of the tank.
Substrate and Cleanliness
- Substrate in the enclosure should be in the form of small stone or gravel, such as the Exo Terra Small Natural River Pebbles. This will enable easy cleaning and reduce the risk of harmful external parasites such as snake mites.
- A monthly removal of all substrate and cleansing of any hides or inorganic furniture such as vines will help greatly improve the chances of prevention.
- For this easily stressed animal, if they seem sick then daily spot cleaning may be unwise, and certainly not recommended for a newly acquired snake.
Temperature and Humidity
- Being diurnal (day active), these snakes should also have a UVA/UVB bulb on for 10 to 12 hours per day situated in such a way that they can bask when they choose.
- Lights should be on for about 13 hours/day during summer and 11 hours/day during winter in order to encourage natural hormonal cycling.
- Any visible light and any UVB light source should be turned off at night to give the snake a light-dark cycle.
- Full spectrum lighting can be provided by snake heat lamps such as the Exo Terra Solar Glo All in One Reptile Lamp.
- Rough green snakes should have a basking area temperature of 90°F. On the other side of the enclosure, the temperature should be between 72-80°F.
- Rough green snakes need an average humidity of 50-75%.
- Increase humidity by misting your snake’s enclosure 1-2x/day with a spray bottle. Mist first thing in the morning and then again at night if needed.