The Eastern Red-Backed Salamander: A Comprehensive Guide to Care and Diet

The Eastern Red-Backed Salamander ( Plethodon cinereus) is a small, lungless salamander found in abundance throughout eastern North America. Known for its adaptability and two distinct color phases, the red-back and lead-back, this terrestrial salamander makes an interesting pet, but requires specific care to thrive in a captive environment. This comprehensive guide will cover habitat setup, appropriate diet, and other essential aspects of caring for these fascinating creatures.

Understanding the Eastern Red-Backed Salamander

The Eastern Red-Backed Salamander, also known as the redback salamander or northern red-backed salamander, is a member of the Plethodontidae family. It's one of 56 species within the Plethodon genus. They extend from Minnesota to North Carolina and northeastern Tennessee in the United States, and from western Ontario to southern Quebec and throughout Nova Scotia in Canada.

These salamanders are small, ranging from 5.7 to 10.0 cm (2.2-3.9 in) in total length. One of their most distinguishing features is the lack of lungs, relying solely on cutaneous respiration (breathing through their skin). This necessitates a moist environment for survival.

Eastern red-backed salamanders can occur in two color phases, lead-back and red-back. The lead-back phase salamanders are a consistent gray to black color while the red-back phase is characterized by an orange to red stripe down the length of their body and tail. In both phases, they are distinguishable by their mottled white and black undersides and five toes on their hind feet.

Creating the Ideal Habitat

Replicating the salamander's natural environment is crucial for its well-being in captivity. Here's how to create a suitable habitat:

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  • Enclosure Size: A 10-gallon tank is generally sufficient for a few red-backed salamanders, as they aren't particularly active.

  • Substrate: Topsoil is the way to go; redbacks are terrestrial and even lay their eggs on land. They aren't aquatic at all. Avoid using just water. Use topsoil or some kind of soil substrate, ensuring it remains damp but not waterlogged.

  • Moisture: Maintaining proper humidity is vital for these lungless salamanders. Regularly mist the enclosure with water to keep the substrate damp.

  • Hides: Provide plenty of hiding places such as flat rocks, pieces of bark, logs, and leaf litter. These will offer the salamanders security and help them feel more comfortable.

  • Plants: Live plants can be added to the enclosure to enhance humidity and provide a more natural environment. While most plants are safe, it's always best to research specific species beforehand. Avoid potentially harmful plants like Venus flytraps.

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  • Temperature and Lighting: Red-backed salamanders prefer cool temperatures, ideally between 60-70°F (15-21°C). Avoid direct sunlight and excessive heat. While they don't require special lighting, ensure the enclosure isn't exposed to intense light sources that could overheat the tank. If you turn your light on at night and they hide most of the time, they are probably avoiding it. The light won't kill them as long as it's not heating up the tank.

  • Ventilation: Ensure the enclosure has adequate ventilation to prevent the buildup of stagnant air and harmful bacteria.

  • Lid: Since they are small skinny sals, if there are holes in the top/screen, get some fine mesh fabric and put it in between the cover and the tank. They could squeeze through holes on a regular screen. Make sure you have a tight lid, as they are adept at escaping.

Nutritional Needs and Dietary Habits

In the wild, eastern red-backed salamanders consume a variety of small invertebrates. Replicating this diet in captivity is essential for their health and longevity.

  • Food Size: Redbacks need small food, like springtails or teeny worms, small slugs. Choose food items that are smaller than the salamanders themselves.

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  • Appropriate Food Items: Suitable food items include:

    • Springtails: These tiny arthropods are an excellent staple food, especially for smaller salamanders. You can try to culture the springtails in the tank: put some in one corner and sprinkle a tiny bit of fish food on that corner every day or two. Having some leaf litter in the tank will encourage the springtails to grow on their own. BUT… I would also say you should keep some of the springtails in a separate small container and grow them, so that if they all disappear from the setup you can restock it.
    • Small worms: Mini mealworms, bloodworms, and other small worms are readily accepted.
    • Termites: Literally after placing them in a enclosure for a few minutes they began eating termites that I placed in there.
    • Fruit flies: Flightless fruit flies are a good option for smaller salamanders.
    • Small insects: Any insect smaller than them can be offered.
    • Spiders
    • Millipedes
    • Centipedes
    • Pseudoscorpions
    • Harvestmen
    • Gastropods
  • Feeding Frequency: Feed the salamanders every other day or every three days, offering only as much food as they can consume in a short period.

  • Supplements: While not always necessary, dusting food items with a calcium and vitamin D3 supplement can help ensure proper bone development and overall health.

  • Observation: Because they're pretty secretive. You probably won't see them eat. Monitor the enclosure for uneaten food, and remove any leftovers to prevent mold or bacterial growth. If mini mealworms seam to be in the same spot they were in yeterday, they might not be eating.

General Care and Maintenance

  • Handling: Avoid handling red-backed salamanders unless absolutely necessary, as their skin is delicate and susceptible to damage. If handling is required, wet your hands thoroughly beforehand.

  • Water Quality: Always use dechlorinated water for misting the enclosure.

  • Cleaning: Regularly remove waste and uneaten food from the enclosure. A complete substrate change should be performed every few months.

  • Monitoring: Observe your salamanders regularly for any signs of illness or distress, such as lethargy, skin lesions, or loss of appetite.

  • Acclimation: When first introducing salamanders to their new habitat, allow them time to acclimate. They may not eat for the first few days as they adjust to their surroundings.

Recognizing Signs of Distress

It's important to be able to recognize signs of distress or illness in your salamanders. These can include:

  • Lethargy: A decrease in activity level can indicate a problem.
  • Loss of appetite: If your salamanders consistently refuse to eat, it could be a sign of illness or stress.
  • Skin lesions: Sores, discoloration, or other abnormalities on the skin can indicate a bacterial or fungal infection.
  • Abnormal behavior: Erratic movements, difficulty breathing, or other unusual behaviors should be investigated.

Additional Considerations

  • Origin and Genetics: Eastern Red-backed Salamanders have undergone extensive taxonomic revision. It's important to be aware of the geographic origin of your salamanders, as different populations may have slightly different needs.

  • Conservation: Eastern Red-backed Salamanders are generally abundant, but habitat destruction and emerging diseases pose potential threats. Support conservation efforts and responsible forestry practices to help protect these fascinating creatures.

  • Territoriality: Noticeably territorial, eastern red-backed salamanders will mark their territory with their scent and dung to notify other salamanders of their presence, range and size.

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