The Pacific Northwest is defined by its natural resources and first foods, inextricably linking its culinary identity to the traditions of its Indigenous people. The foods that the Northwest is known for - salmon, berries, and hazelnuts - are the same foods that sustained people here 10,000 years ago. This article delves into the rich dietary history of the Northwest Coast Native American tribes, exploring their traditional food systems, the impact of colonization, and the ongoing efforts to revitalize Indigenous foodways.
Abundance and Ingenuity: Traditional Northwest Coast Native American Diets
Indigenous people in the Pacific Northwest had so much bounty around them that they never needed to develop agriculture like people in other parts of the country, but there’s new evidence that a sort of farming did take place here. Unlike other regions of North America, the Pacific Northwest did not rely heavily on the "Three Sisters" (winter squash, beans, and maize) agricultural model. Instead, they managed entire ecosystems to support their food supply. Pacific Northwest tribes are known to have tended forest gardens of hazelnuts, hawthorn, berries, and crabapples. According to a recent study published in the journal Ecology and Society, “forest gardens have substantially greater plant and functional trait diversity than periphery forests even more than 150 years after management ceased.” Native women tended their huckleberry patches in mountain foothills and deftly employed fire to maintain meadows of camas; they cultivated crops of wapato tubers year after year, supporting wetland ecosystems in the process.
The traditional diet of Northwest Coast Native Americans was characterized by its diversity and abundance, reflecting the region's rich natural resources. Their diets consisted of more complex carbohydrates (such as whole grains, peas, beans, potatoes) and fewer fats (such as meats, dairy products, oils). Foods harvested generally included seeds, nuts, corn, beans, chile, squash, wild fruits and greens, herbs, fish and game, including the animal’s meat, organs and oils. Foods were dried, smoked, stored for later use. This included a wide array of foods, including:
- Salmon: Salmon held immense cultural and nutritional importance. For Indigenous peoples of the Northwest Coast and Plateau, the return of the spring’s first salmon marked the end of living on dried meats and roots, and in some cases salvation from imminent starvation. First Salmon ceremonies have been observed in our region for thousands of years and are still held to celebrate the salmon’s return each year to begin the fishing season. They were so plentiful that the fatty fish were used as fuel to keep fires burning brightly, and as fertilizer to nourish the soil. Tribes developed sophisticated techniques for catching, preserving, and utilizing every part of the salmon.
- Other Fish and Seafood: Beyond salmon, the coastal tribes harvested a variety of other fish, such as eulachon (also known as candlefish), halibut, cod, and shellfish like clams, mussels, and crabs.
- Marine Mammals: Seals, sea lions, and whales were important sources of protein and fat for coastal communities.
- Berries: A wide variety of berries, including huckleberries, salmonberries, thimbleberries, and salal berries, were gathered and consumed fresh or dried for later use.
- Roots and Tubers: Camas, wapato (Sauvie Island was originally named), and other roots provided essential carbohydrates.
- Game: Elk, deer, and other game animals were hunted to supplement their diet.
- Nuts and Seeds: Hazelnuts and other nuts and seeds were gathered and consumed.
The Impact of Colonization: Dietary Shifts and Health Disparities
The arrival of European settlers brought significant changes to the dietary habits of Native Americans. In the 15th century, European settlers brought sheep, goats, cattle, pigs, horses, peaches, apricots, plums, cherries, melons, watermelon, apples, grapes, and wheat. The shift in the way American Indians and Alaska Natives eat came as a result of being removed from their homelands and relocated to reservations. The Federal Indian Removal Act of 1830 forcefully removed more than 100,000 American Indians to Oklahoma Territory. In 1864, the Diné endured the Long Walk, a forced relocation from Arizona to New Mexico. The Trail of Tears in 1868 removed the Cherokee, Muscogee, Seminole, Chickasaw, and Choctaw Nations to Oklahoma. The forced removal of American Indians to reservations and the destruction of traditional food sources were deliberate governmental efforts to terminate Native peoples. Army said, “Kill every buffalo you can! Destructive efforts continued far into the 20th century. Native children were removed from their families and communities to boarding schools. Children experienced forced assimilation that brought neglect, abuse, oppression, and intergenerational trauma. The federal government discouraged American Indians and Alaska Natives from continuing their traditional hunting and gathering traditions and provided food rations known as commodity foods - lard, flour, coffee, sugar, and canned meat (also known as spam) - to Native communities. Such food products are completely foreign to the traditional Native diet. The distribution of commodities created dramatic dietary changes among Native people. The government never provided enough food to feed all tribal members, and the diet is linked to a multitude of poor health outcomes, including diabetes.
These changes had a devastating impact on the health of Native communities, leading to increased rates of obesity, diabetes, and other health problems. The introduction of processed foods high in simple carbohydrates (refined sugar), salts and fats replaced traditional foods. One example of such a food that is commonly found in Indian Country is frybread. Frybread found today is a product of the shift from traditional foods to government-issued commodities.
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American Indian and Alaska Native elders face disparate rates of obesity: nearly 40 percent of men and more than 46 percent of women are obese. The rates of diabetes among Native people are more striking: more than 16 percent have diabetes, a rate more than twice as high as that of the general population in the United States as a whole. Among Native elders, 30 percent - nearly one in three - have diabetes. Some Native communities suffer even higher rates of diabetes. The Pima of Arizona have seen rates of diabetes as high as 60 percent in their community. The consequences of diabetes left untreated include amputations, blindness and death.
Revitalizing Indigenous Foodways: A Path to Health and Cultural Preservation
Recognizing the detrimental effects of the "modern" Western diet and the importance of traditional foods, many Native communities are actively working to restore their food systems and promote healthier eating habits. Tribal Nations are restoring traditional food systems and rebuilding relationships with the land, water, plants, and animals. Native communities can begin by conducting a food sovereignty assessment to understand their current food system and plan how to regain control of their local food system. The First Nations Development Institute has a Food Sovereignty Assessment Tool that could be adapted to the local community and includes information on who participates, how to collect data, survey questions, a process for asset mapping, developing, and implementing local plans.
These efforts include:
- Food Sovereignty Initiatives: Asserting the right of Indigenous people to control their own food systems, including production, distribution, and consumption.
- Traditional Food Programs: Educating community members about traditional diets and promoting the consumption of locally sourced, healthy foods.
- Community Gardens and Farms: Growing traditional crops and providing access to fresh produce.
- Language Revitalization: Reclaiming traditional food names and knowledge through language programs.
- Intergenerational Knowledge Transfer: Engaging elders in sharing their knowledge of traditional food practices with younger generations.
The Sicangu Food Sovereignty Initiative (SFSI) was developed by the Rosebud of South Dakota with input from community elders, local producers, and partner organizations. Regenerative agriculture will be used for all food production within the boundaries of Rosebud. Infrastructure will be in place to facilitate equitable access to nutritious food for all communities. For example, the state and federal food codes do not account for traditional harvesting and food preparation techniques, so a Tribal food code will be created. A second effort is to organize small local farmers to collectively sell their produce to meet the supply demands of Rosebud’s institutional food market (schools, stores, etc.). Third, SFSI provides a mobile grocery market, which sources from local producers. Food will again be seen as medicine that heals the body, mind, and spirit of the Oyate, and deepens Lakota identity. The food system will foster and support sustainable business ventures, making food production and entrepreneurship a viable pathway for job creation and income generation. Youth will be empowered to lead their families back to self-determination by knowing how to grow, harvest, and prepare foods of their choice. Tribal citizens will be empowered to make highly informed consumption decisions.
Some activists in partnership with Tribal Nations and universities have begun to push for a return to traditional Native diets. One such movement is the “Decolonizing Diet Project” started by Professor Marty Reinhardt at Northern Michigan University. The Decolonizing Diet Project takes the perspective that the change in dietary practices that resulted from the colonization of North America is a form of oppression. Broadly, these types of projects share common objectives. By engaging elders, the knowledge of generations is built and shared among the community in support of the local food system. Such programs also educate communities about traditional diets and the importance of embracing and reviving traditional practices. These programs also help increase physical activity among Native people by encouraging hunting, gathering, gardening and traditional preparation of food.
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Many, if not all, Native cultures teach, “Food is medicine.” Eating a healthy diet can be a challenge due to food deserts, the unhealthy nature of commodities, the convenience of fast foods, and limited resources to buy fresh foods. However, you can begin slowly and prepare healthy traditional recipes and cook with traditional ingredients that can preserve and promote your culture. All elders can benefit from a healthier diet. Make one change at a time. Changing diets is not easy and habits can be hard to break. By making one change at a time, it will be easier to change habits successfully. Cook by sautéing, baking, broiling, roasting, boiling, and steaming. Use healthy traditional oils, e.g., seal oil (if available) or avocado, olive, and expeller-expressed sesame oils. Drink several glasses of water each day. Avoid sugary drinks such as soda, juices, and beverages with high fructose corn syrup. Avoid processed foods, which are generally found in the middle (the aisles) of grocery stores. Try traditional recipes and traditional ingredients.
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