Khaki Campbell ducks, developed in England by Adele Campbell, are renowned for their exceptional egg-laying abilities and adaptable nature. This article delves into the specifics of their dietary needs and nutritional requirements, ensuring optimal health and productivity for these delightful birds.
Khaki Campbell Ducks: An Overview
The story of the Khaki Campbell begins in the late 1800s in England, where Mrs. Adele Campbell of Gloucestershire, a visionary duck breeder, set out to create a duck breed with exceptional egg-laying abilities. Through careful crossbreeding involving Rouen, Runner, and Mallard ducks, Mrs. Campbell achieved her goal. Named after their dedicated breeder and their distinctive khaki-colored plumage, Khaki Campbells quickly gained popularity for their prolific egg-laying ability and friendly demeanor. In 1929, Campbells were introduced to the United States by Perry Fish of Syracuse, New York. Although acknowledged by the American Poultry Association (APA) in its American Standard of Perfection by 1941, their population remained low for several years. However, their fortunes shifted in the 1970s when the number of Khaki Campbells surged in the US.
Khaki Campbells are considered a smaller, lightweight duck breed, making them easy to manage for backyard keepers and homesteaders alike. Males typically weigh between 4 to 4.5 pounds (1.8-2 kilograms), while females tend to be slightly lighter, usually around 3.5 to 4 pounds (1.6-1.8 kilograms). With proper care, a nutritious diet, and a safe environment, Khaki Campbells can live anywhere from 7 to 10 years. This is on the longer side for domestic ducks, which makes them a wonderful long-term companion for duck keepers. One of the biggest reasons Khaki Campbells are so popular is their exceptional egg-laying ability. Under optimal conditions, a single hen can lay up to 340 eggs per year-that’s nearly an egg a day! Whether you live in a cozy urban backyard or on a spacious rural farm, Khaki Campbells are likely to feel right at home. Their adaptable nature means they can thrive in various climates and conditions. Unlike heritage breeds that go broody and want to hatch their own eggs, Khaki Campbell hens usually don’t show strong broody tendencies. This trait supports their reputation as high-output layers, since they rarely take a break from laying to sit on a nest.
Nutritional Requirements of Khaki Campbells
Khaki Campbells do best on a balanced diet made up of nutritionally complete duck pellets, which support their high energy needs. While there is very little published research that addresses the nutritional needs of egg-laying ducks kept in North America, most of the research is based in Asia. The ‘Duck - Management Guide‘ by the Central Poultry Development Organization, Southern Region, produced a table on the nutritional requirements for egg-producing Khaki Campbells.
Feeding Methods
Ducks can be given their feed as a dry mash, a combination of dry/wet mash, or pellets. They should never be given access to feed without water nearby. It is best to place the waterer directly next to the feeder and make the water available at all times. Even without a pond, ducks require more drinking water than chickens, as they immerse their entire bill in the water.
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Feeding Ducklings
When ducks are allowed to forage, it is recommended that the ducklings receive feed ad libitum for the first eight weeks. Ducklings will typically consume 12.5 kg (27.6 lb.) up to 20 weeks of age.
Medicated Feed
Ducks do not normally need medicated feed since they are resistant to most of the common avian diseases. Medicated chicken feed can be toxic to waterfowl. Typically this is because the medication is included in the chicken feed at a level that will provide the correct dose to the chickens based on the amount of feed they will eat.
Foraging and Supplementation
Khaki Campbells are excellent foragers and will gladly snack on garden pests like snails, slugs, and insects. When ducks are allowed to forage, it is recommended that the ducklings receive feed ad libitum for the first eight weeks. You can supplement their feed with vegetable scraps from the kitchen or weeds from the garden. They are a feathered solution to an infestation problem. Surprisingly swift, I’ve seen them snap a fly out of the air. Though slugs may be a bane to your garden, they are a delicacy to your ducks. During the winter, approach small supermarkets about over-ripe vegetables for feed.
Balancing Foraging and Feed
Largely due to their selective breeding modern domesticated ducks in most cases will not be able to get 100% (or even close to) of their daily nutritional needs simply from foraging. Even domesticated mallards nutritional needs cannot be compared to that of a wild mallard.
One owner reported feeding their 9-week-old Khaki Campbell ducks 1/2 ration (16OZ) figuring that they are foraging all day. When I feed them they devour their food as if they are starving! Yet they will sit in the yard for 2 hours quacking and napping while waiting for food, not foraging.
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Based on feedback, while they are still growing, I have decided to give them a full 6-7oz per duck per day. Half around noon, half before bed. I had food available all day when they started free ranging and that created two problems: 1) they would just laze about all day eating their feed and napping instead of foraging. I want them to forage for a more balanced diet, exposure to microbiota, less need for feed, etc. So I hope this 50/50 strat works well.
So, I did switch to giving a full 6-7oz of food per duck per day based on recommendations in this thread. The ducks rarely finished their food. Fast forward some weeks and VT has been in a serious drought. The river level is the lowest that I have ever seen it. The ducks seem to love it. They were out in the river eating all day and in the evening when I would give them their food, they only ate a little bit of it and then the turkeys cleaned up the leftovers each morning. So in conclusion I would say, from my experience, go ahead and give the ducks their full amount of feed (6-7oz per duck per day for khaki campbell) and if they don't eat it all, then you can probably assume that they are getting plenty of food from forage. I should add that my situation may be a bit unique as these ducks have access to a very clean and healthy river all day long and they do almost all of their foraging in this river.
Calcium Supplementation for Laying Ducks
As the ducks start laying eggs, you will need to provide calcium for proper egg formation. I feed mine powdered eggshells. Though I can’t necessarily endorse it, my ducks do not suffer from the practice. Whenever I crack open an egg, I wash out the shell and let it dry. Once I’ve accumulated enough, I put them in the oven at a low heat and then grind them up. Instead of doing this, you could buy ground oyster shells from a farm supply store. Add the source of calcium to their feed, replenishing it as it disappears.
The Rewards of a Well-Nourished Duck
Speaking of eggs, the taste of a Khaki Campbell egg is sublime. Because they forage for bugs and weeds, their eggs are flavorful and rich. After being fed duck eggs, my ten year old nephew now refuses to eat chicken eggs. Several people at work are now addicted to them, so I have a small side-business which covers the cost of the feed. Furthermore, the duck eggs are superior to chicken eggs in baking.
Duck eggs are more popular in Asia than in North America, but there are many reasons for keeping ducks for egg production in a small flock. Ducks typically lay more eggs than chickens. Commercial chickens lay about 250 eggs a year, but commercial ducks can lay 300-350 eggs per year. Large chicken eggs weigh 24-26 ounces per dozen while duck eggs weigh 32-34 ounces per dozen. Duck eggs are also higher in omega-3 fatty acids and stay fresher longer. While ducks consume 20-30% more feed per dozen eggs produced than chickens, they can forage to meet some of their nutritional requirements.
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