Jumping spiders, belonging to the Salticidae family, represent the largest group of spiders with over 4,000 species globally and approximately 300 in the United States. Their unique characteristics and hunting behaviors raise an important question: what exactly do jumping spiders eat? This article delves into the dietary habits of jumping spiders, exploring their favorite foods, hunting techniques, and the differences between the diets of wild and pet jumping spiders.
The Natural Diet of Jumping Spiders
In general, jumping spiders are carnivores with a varied diet. Jumping spiders eat insects like flies, moths, and crickets. They are not obligate carnivores, as they have been known to drink nectar.
What insects do jumping spiders eat?
Jumping spiders eat almost anything they can get their chelicerae (jaws) around. Flies, mealworms, moths, and other small, defenseless prey are their favorites. Jumping spiders will also eat crickets, cockroaches, and other spiders if given the chance. Though jumping spiders are mostly carnivorous, they cannot be called obligate carnivores because they have frequently been observed drinking nectar. Jumping spiders have also occasionally been known to eat ants, though ants are far from their favorite prey. Ants, unlike most other insects that jumping spiders eat, have formidable defenses, making them a dangerous meal.
Hunting Techniques
Jumping spiders, with their eight eyes and near 360-degree field of vision, have excellent eyesight. They use their great vision to spot prey like crickets or flies. Once they spot the unfortunate target, they spool out a string of silk and attach it to something solid. Though jumping spiders tend to be small, less than one inch at the largest, they will attack prey many times their own size. Jumping spiders eat all kinds of insects, and have been known to kill crickets that dwarf them in size. To aid in their hunting, jumping spiders have large, powerful front legs that they use to hold the prey in place. Unlike other kinds of spiders, jumping spiders do not use webs to catch their prey. Wild jumping spiders eat almost any insect unfortunate enough to cross their path. Many species of jumping spiders are constantly on the move, constantly hunting. Some species sit and wait for prey to cross their path. But no matter what hunting method the jumping spider uses, they all eat roughly the same thing; insects. Wild jumping spiders eat flies, crickets, worms, and even other spiders.
Keeping Jumping Spiders as Pets: A Guide to Feeding
Many people keep jumping spiders as pets. They can be purchased, but are more often caught outdoors in flower or vegetable gardens. Pet jumping spiders only need to be fed every three days or so, though it is not unusual for them to go a few weeks without eating. Jumping spider owners should be careful though, as some insects may actually harm their pet jumping spider. Crickets, if not immediately eaten, should be removed from the enclosure, as they can harm the jumping spider. This is particularly true if the jumping spider is older or close to molting. Similarly, owners should never try to feed ants to their jumping spiders. Baby jumping spiders eat more than adult jumping spiders. They prey on insects just like the adults, albeit smaller insects. Young jumping spiders drink nectar as well, making them omnivores, though they are mostly carnivorous.
Read also: Spider Beetle Identification
Feeding Schedule and Considerations
Offer your spider food every 3 days. But don't expect them to eat every time. How often they eat depends on age, species, and sex. Young spiders eat more than older spiders. And female spiders usually eat more than males. Some older adults go as long as a month without eating. Spiders sitting on eggs or molting may also go weeks without eating. The best time to feed is morning. If they don't eat it, remove it at night. Most jumping spiders are diurnal (active during the day). Uneaten prey may disturb or harm them at night.
Water and Hydration
Offer your spider droplets of water to drink and also keep their enclosure humid. This can be done at the same time as offering food. Many keepers use a spray bottle and just spray on the sides of the enclosure (not ON the spider). Do you need special water? That's a tough question. Most keepers use tap water without issues, but if you suspect your tap water isn't the highest quality, you can buy distilled water. Provide water and humidity by misting one or two sides of the enclosure 3 - 5 times weekly.
Jumping Spider Diet by Life Stage
The dietary needs of jumping spiders change as they grow. Here's a breakdown of what to feed them at different stages of their lives:
Slings Ages i2 & i3
Jumping spider slings begin to eat at age i2, when they leave the nest. They should be fed a diet of Melangoster fruit flies, at least 3 to 5 flies every other day.
Slings i4, i5 & i6
At i4 slings can be introduced to their first try at larger prey. Hydei fruit flies are a little bit larger than Melangoster and are a great first step. Next, the smallest of mealworm larvae and pinhead crickets can be introduced along with fly spikes and small roaches. Be sure not to offer too large or too intimidating of prey when beginning to introduce your jumping spider to new feeder insects.
Read also: Diet of the Brown Recluse Spider
Juveniles i6, i7 & i8, Sub Adults & Adults i9 & Older
Upgrading to larger sized prey your jumping spider was already eating is the first step for your Sub Adult. Adding any new prey should make for fun hunting, such as flying insects, and nutritional needs like waxworms for fat and moisture.
Sweet Treats: Fruits for Jumping Spiders
Jumping Spiders love to suck down the nectar from fruits like watermelon, strawberries, grapes & mangoes. The sugar is a sweet treat and will give your jumper a little boost of energy. This is a great snack for post molt and senior & dehydrated spoods.
Popular Food Options for Pet Jumping Spiders
Keeping feeder bugs is an essential part of keeping a pet jumping spider. There are a variety of options that jumping spiders enjoy and are easy to keep. Here's a look at some popular choices:
Flies
Flies (blue and green bottle) are one of the most popular food options for pet jumping spiders. They are easy to keep and all popular pet species will eat them. Unlike crickets or mealworms they cannot harm sick or molting spiders .The major disadvantage is they are difficult to raise at home. Most people buy them online. But a single order can last a month or more with proper care. You can order flies in the form of spikes or pupae. Pupae are a great starter food: stick in a critter keeper, they'll hatch in a few days. Once they've hatched stick them in the fridge for a few hours so they won't fly out when you open the enclosure. Then take out and feed. Fly food is easy to make. You can use sugar or anything sweet mixed with warm water. Place it in a small cup (like a deli cup) and put a paper towel in the solution to soak it up so the flies don't drown. Let the flies feed for a few hours and then place back in the fridge for storage. They'll keep in the fridge, alive, for a few weeks. If they are dying too soon your fridge may be too cold. Place in a warmer part of the fridge (towards the front) or adjust your fridge temperature. Flies in the fridge will be in a state of torpor. This makes them easy to handle because they won't fly away. You can pick them up with your hands or feeding tweezers and put them in your spider's enclosure. Another choice rather than ordering pupae are spikes, which are little maggots that can be fed to spiders directly or within a week or so they will turn into pupae and hatch into flies. The major advantage of these over just ordering pupae is that they can be stored in the fridge for a few weeks and still remain viable. Spikes are the maggot stage of fly development. Some spiders will eat them directly. They will turn into pupae and then hatch into flies within a week or so. The advantage of spikes is they keep in the fridge in that stage for 1-3 weeks.
Species Ideal for Flies
Adult spiders.
Read also: Diet of Argiope aurantia
Pros of Flies
Can keep for a long time in fridge, most species prefer them, some species like otiosus strongly prefer flies (and may refuse non-flying prey).
Cons of Flies
Having flies in your fridge (eeew).
Where to purchase Flies
Mantisplace.
Crickets
Crickets are a popular feeder source because they are easily found in almost any pet store. The disadvantage is they can harm your spider or even kill it. Spiders are most vulnerable if molting or older, and the biggest danger is at night. Remove from the enclosure before night if they aren't eaten..Pinhead crickets, tiny newly hatched crickets, are safer to feed. Some spiders will accept freshly killed crickets, which makes them a possible option for sick or young spiders. Some species like the canopy jumper (Phidippus otiosus) may refuse to eat crickets.
Species Ideal for Crickets
Adult spiders.
Pros of Crickets
Easy to purchase at the local pet store.
Cons of Crickets
Can be dangerous to molting, resting, or sick spiders. Watch carefully and remove if uneaten.
Where to purchase Crickets
Your local pet store.
Fruit Flies
Species Ideal for Fruit Flies
Spiderlings or very small adults.
Pros of Fruit Flies
Simple to raise yourself.
Cons of Fruit Flies
Not enough food for most adult spiders.
Where to purchase Fruit Flies
Petco or Josh's Frogs.
Roaches
Some pet stores also sell dubia roaches, which many jumping spiders will accept. They are also easy to raise.
Species Ideal for Roaches
Adult spiders.
Pros of Roaches
Easy to purchase at pet stores and to raise.
Cons of Roaches
May burrow into substrate, where your spider can't find them. Adults may be too large for some spiders.
Where to purchase Roaches
Your local pet store.
Mealworms
Mealworms are another popular food you can buy at a pet store. Make sure to remove any uneaten mealworms because they grow up into beetles. The beetles can be aggressive and dangerous towards spiders.
Species Ideal for Mealworms
Adult spiders.
Pros of Mealworms
Easy to raise.
Cons of Mealworms
Too big for many spiders, may burrow and turn into beetles which are dangerous to your spider.
Where to purchase Mealworms
Your local pet store.
General Care for Pet Jumping Spiders
Beyond diet, here are some important care considerations for keeping jumping spiders as pets:
Housing
Jumping Spiders are 'arboreal' meaning they are tree-dwelling and can be found living in bushes, trees, and in-between the blades of tall-leaved plants. A growing spider can be housed in a 4x4x6 enclosure, but an adult will need a larger 6x6x10 size. Ventilation is key for your spider's health, with holes to prevent your spider (or food) from escaping while letting fresh air circulate. Humidity should be around 75% normally and 85 to 90% during molting. Place your spider in a brightly lit location, they love light when hunting! Coco coir with some sand added in works well for a substrate at the bottom. Sadly, Jumping Spiders are solitary and must be housed alone. When housed together, one will often eat the other one after a brutal fight.
Molting
Be very careful not to disturb your spider or feed it when it is molting, they are extremely fragile. The molt can take a few hours to a few days to complete. They will act less active than usual afterwards until the new exoskelton hardens.
A Note on Wild-Caught Jumping Spiders
Emerald Jumping Spiders (Paraphidippus aurantius) possess unique personalities and can make excellent pets. Jumping spiders are commonly found from Canada to the Atlantic coast states and stretches west to California. There are more than 5,800 described species found in the world, of which 300 are found in the United States. They have a wide range of habitats, from rocky areas, vegetation, wood piles, and even inside your home. These little jumpers are also known to frequent gardens, and as they make great pets, it is typically not advisable to take a wild spider, or wild animal of any kind, from its natural habitat. There are some rare species of jumping spiders and often, people who take them from the wild are unaware of which type or what sex they have collected. Collecting a female is not generally the best choice as they may be carrying babies and you can create certain complications. Should you decide that you would like to have one for a pet, as they are low maintenance and easy to care for, you can find pet stores or breeders who will know which species you are receiving.