The Chinese Algae Eater ( Gyrinocheilus aymonieri ) is a freshwater fish popular in the fishkeeping hobby. Despite its name, this fish isn't actually from China. Gyrinocheilus aymonieri was first described by Tirant in 1883 and named after Étienne François Aymonier, a French linguist and explorer.
Natural Habitat and Appearance
The Chinese Algae Eater is native to Mainland Southeast Asia, specifically the northern Malay Peninsula, Chao Phraya, Mae Klong, and Mekong river basins of Cambodia, Yunnan province in China, Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam. These fish live in clear, fast-flowing mountain streams, where the substrates usually consist of boulders, gravel, and sand. Their sucker-like mouth allows them to grip onto rocks and other surfaces to stay stationary in the water.
Chinese Algae Eaters are large fish species with long, slender bodies and small fins. In the wild, they can reach up to 11 inches (28cm) in length. They are characterized by a sucker mouth, which they use to anchor to surfaces and scrape algae. The color of Gyrinocheilus aymonieri varies, often yellowish or pale brown with a lighter underside. Some selectively bred colors are also available, including marbled and a popular "golden" leucistic variety.
Identification and Similar Species
Chinese Algae Eaters are often mistaken for other shoaling fish species, such as the Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus oblongus, formerly C. siamensis), C. atrillimes, and Flying Fox.
Here's how to differentiate them:
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- Siamese Algae Eater (SAE): Grows to 6 inches (15 cm) long, has a bold, black line down its side with a tannish-gray back and lighter-colored belly, and possesses a pointed mouth.
- Chinese Algae Eater (CAE): Can reach 11 inches (28 cm) in length and has a large sucker mouth.
- Flying Fox: Similar to the SAE in appearance with a 6-inch (15 cm), shark-like profile, but has a thin, shiny gold line surrounded by two black stripes.
Aquarium Care
Chinese Algae Eater care is manageable for aquarists of all experience levels, as these fish are quite hardy. However, it's essential to provide a suitable habitat and maintain water quality.
Tank Size
Pet stores often recommend a 10 or 20-gallon (80 liters) tank, but this is inadequate. The minimum tank size for housing a Chinese Algae Eater is 30 gallons (120 L). A 50-gallon tank or larger is even better, as it helps to curb territorial aggression and ensures adequate spacing from tankmates as they grow.
Tank Setup
The ideal setup for a Chinese Algae Eater is a river biotope tank that imitates its natural habitat.
- Substrate: Combine sand, gravel, and larger river rocks.
- Décor: Add plenty of driftwood. Allow algae to grow on aquarium surfaces.
- Plants: Most plants tend to be safe, even the more delicate-leaved ones. Sturdy plants like Cryptocoryne are a good choice. Plants may be counterproductive as they compete with algae.
- Lighting: Standard lighting is sufficient. Bright lighting will help boost the growth of algae on plants and decors.
- Water Movement: Strong water movement is essential to replicate the flow in their natural waters. Use a good pump to recreate a powerful water flow.
Water Parameters
Chinese Algae Eaters don't respond well to low water quality. The water should be well-oxygenated and clean.
- Temperature: 68-80°F (20-27°C)
- pH: 6.0-8.0
- Water Hardness: Soft to hard water
Perform a 25% partial water replacement weekly or biweekly, or 25-50% at least once a month to maintain good water quality.
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Filtration
High-powered filtration is essential, as Chinese Algae Eaters are sensitive to nitrates. Ensure your filter is efficient enough to keep levels low. A filter like the Aquaclear Power Filter is highly recommended.
Feeding Chinese Algae Eaters
Chinese Algae Eaters are versatile feeders, but their dietary needs change as they mature.
Juvenile Diet
As youngsters, they do an excellent job of feeding on algae and cleaning plants, rocks, and gravel. They will actively search through plants and graze on them.
Adult Diet
As they mature, Chinese Algae Eaters become less interested in algae and require a more varied diet.
- Quality Flake Foods: Provide a quality flake food on a regular basis.
- Algae Wafers: Supplement their diet with algae wafers.
- Vegetables: Offer fresh vegetables like peas, zucchini, and spinach.
- Protein: Supplement their diet with protein-rich foods such as bloodworms, daphnia, and other live or frozen foods.
- Sinking Foods: Offer them sinking foods, as Chinese Algae Eaters tend to only take their food from the bottom or midsection of their tank. Hikari Tropical Algae Wafers are specifically made for bottom-feeding herbivores.
In the wild, their diet is a mixture of algae, worms, larvae, crustaceans, and insects. Their diet should never consist solely of algae in the aquarium.
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Behavior and Tank Mates
Chinese Algae Eaters are mostly peaceful when they are young, but as they grow older, they become territorial and aggressive towards others. Adding Chinese Algae Eaters last in an aquarium can help diminish territorial aggressiveness. Small groups (2 - 3) are not advisable unless you have a huge tank.
Tank Mate Considerations
- Avoid Bottom-Dwelling Fish: Bottom-dwelling fish should be avoided, as well as any wide, flat-bodied fish like goldfish.
- Avoid Slow-Moving Fish: If they are kept with slow-moving fish, they may latch onto the fish’s side and feed on their slime coat, which often leads to infection. Large and slow-moving tankmates should not be kept in the same tank with Chinese Algae Eater. This semi-aggressive fish may latch onto their flat bodies in order to eat their slime coat, resulting in injuries and most likely parasitic infections.
- Avoid Small Fish: Do not keep Chinese Algae Eaters with small fish species (like Guppies).
- Avoid Invertebrates: Inverts such as dwarf shrimp and freshwater snails should not be introduced into a tank with Chinese Algae Eater as they are very likely to get attacked. While it is possible to keep them with shrimp or snails when they are young and small, they grow very fast and will soon need to be monitored to ensure they are free from possible harm.
- Suitable Tank Mates: The best tankmates for this fish would be species that are quick and nimble, like neon tetras, loaches, barbs, giant danios, cichlids, and livebearers.
Aggression
To reduce aggression levels, it's usually recommended that the Chinese Algae Eater be the last fish you add to the aquarium. Keeping them in small groups (6 or more) is also said to help disperse aggression, but you'd need a pretty large aquarium to be able to house that many. In smaller groups, they can end up bullying each other to death, so you may want to consider keeping yours solo.
Breeding
Breeding Chinese Algae Eaters in a home aquarium is a rare and challenging feat. In the Far East, they are often bred successfully with the aid of hormone treatments, but such methods are typically not available to hobbyists.
Breeding Attempts
If you attempt to breed them naturally, mimic their natural habitat by providing a well-planted tank with plenty of hiding spots. In captivity, spawning is probably triggered by tweaking of the water temperature and parameters (24°С or 75F, pH 6.8, GH 4 - 5), as seen in many fish species. Next, you will need a group containing male and female counterparts, which is somewhat hard to achieve.
Spawning and Fry Care
The next day after spawning, the female will lay down around 3000 - 4000 eggs. After that, parents should be immediately removed from the rearing tank. The incubation period is pretty short, it takes only one day. However, the percentage of healthy eggs is extremely small due to the susceptibility of eggs to fungal diseases.
Health and Disease
Chinese Algae Eaters are hardy fish, but they are susceptible to common freshwater fish diseases.
- Ich: This occurs as a result of a parasite that causes tiny white spots to form across the body. Ich is caused by stress, which is usually a direct result of poor water conditions.
- Bloat: Bloat is caused by overfeeding.
When you detect an unhealthy fish in the tank, move them into a quarantine tank to prevent the disease from spreading to other inhabitants in the aquarium.
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