The frilled lizard, scientifically known as Chlamydosaurus kingii, is one of Australia's most distinctive and familiar dragon lizards. Also known as the frilled dragon, frill-necked lizard, or affectionately as "frillie" by keepers, this reptile captivates with its unique appearance and intriguing behaviors. Native to northern Australia and southern New Guinea, the frilled lizard has become a popular subject of interest for reptile enthusiasts.
Physical Characteristics and Natural Habitat
The frilled dragon is a medium to large-sized lizard, growing up to 3 feet in length, including its tail. Males tend to be larger than females, especially those from Australian bloodlines. These lizards are slender, with long limbs and a moderately long tail. Their natural color is a rocky grey, with some orange or sand-colored overtones that intensify when they raise their frills. One distinguishing feature of Australian frilled dragons is their distinct white cheeks. Hatchling frilled dragons come out of the egg fighting for their lives
Frilled dragons are most frequently found in humid climates, such as the tropical savannah woodland and occasionally the tropical and temperate forests of Australia and New Guinea. As an arboreal lizard, they prefer places with plenty of tall trees and interlocking branches for easy movement. They are diurnal creatures, remaining active mainly during the daytime.
The Iconic Frill: Display and Function
The frilled lizard is most famous for its intimidating “frill”-a large, colorful, circular membrane of skin that projects upward and outward. This frill, which lies like a cape over its shoulders when relaxed, is primarily a warning display employed when the lizard feels threatened or surprised. When alarmed, the lizard can rear up on its hind legs and run quite quickly, often with its mouth open as part of its "bluffing" plan. The frill is erected to make the lizard appear larger and more imposing, scaring off potential predators. This display is often accompanied by hissing. Frilled dragons can run really fast - they can even run bipedally on their back two legs!
Frilled dragons are territorial and seem to use their frill to attract potential mates. The frills on males can be larger and more vibrant than females.
Read also: Diet and Feeding: Armadillo Girdled Lizard
Diet and Feeding Habits in the Wild
In their natural habitat, frilled lizards are primarily insectivores, with some omnivorous habits. Their diet consists mainly of spiders, ants, termites, and other insects. Frilled lizards spend about 90% of their time in trees, only descending to the ground to feed. Though frilled dragons are omnivores, benefiting from a variety of livefood and also from a varied diet of vegetables and some fruit.
Captive Diet and Feeding Guidelines
Providing a proper diet is crucial for the health and well-being of a pet frilled lizard. Here are some guidelines for feeding frilled lizards in captivity:
Insects
The main diet for a pet frilled lizard should be comprised of insects, such as:
- Crickets
- Dubia roaches
- Locusts
- Hornworms
- Silkworms
- Soldier fly larvae
- Superworms
- Canned grasshoppers (available in some stores that sell reptile supplies)
It’s important to ensure that whatever you feed is smaller in size than the distance between their eyes.
Vegetation
While insects form the bulk of their diet, frilled lizards can also be offered small amounts of vegetation. Some may eat it, while others may ignore it. You may try feeding them with green leafy vegetables like spinach.
Read also: The Hoxsey Diet
Supplementation
All insects should be dusted with a quality calcium and vitamin D3 supplement. It is recommended to supplement their food with a dusting of calcium and D3 at every (sometimes every other) feeding.
Feeding Frequency
- Juveniles: Juvenile frilled lizards should be fed appropriately sized insects, no larger than two-thirds of their head width, up to three times a day.
- Adults: Adults will feed once a day or every two days.
Also frilled dragons are often happy to be hand fed when they get older, but watch your fingers. Allowing them to hunt increases mental stimulation and exercise. Some Frilled Dragons can get obese in captivity as they become accustomed to being lazy and having food hand delivered!
Hydration
Frilled lizards drink water droplets. Mist juveniles around three times a day, when feeding. Healthy adults can have a daily rain. A shallow pan placed in the bottom of the enclosure may or may not receive much attention, though placing a heat source under it will help raise humidity levels. Usually, after a few minutes of misting or rain, a thirsty lizard will drink. One of the first signs of dehydration is sunken eyes. Also, if the skin is loose and you pinch it, and it stays pinched-looking, you have a dehydrated lizard.
Housing Requirements
Creating the right environment is essential for the well-being of frilled lizards in captivity. Here are the key aspects of their housing:
Enclosure Size
- Juveniles: A 20-gallon “tall” enclosure is adequate for a single pair of juvenile frillies measuring 12 inches long.
- Adults: Adult enclosures can range from 4 to 6 feet tall, at least 2½ feet deep, and 5 feet long, especially if you’re raising a breeding pair or trio of frilled lizards. Dimensions can be somewhat smaller for a single adult, but remember, height is very important.
For an adult we would recommend an enclosure that is at least 5-6 feet in length, 2 feet (but 3 feet is better) in depth, and 4-6 feet in height. A juvenile could be kept in a smaller enclosure for the first year to eighteen months of their life, like our largest chameleon setup, but you do need to have a plan for how to house this lizard as an adult.
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Visual Barrier
It is recommended to use a visual barrier-such as by attaching cardboard or another material, painting the walls, etc.-on all sides of the tank except for one, the viewing side, as this will help provide the required feeling of security. Feeling exposed can lead to stressed-out frilled lizards that are excessively wary whenever something moves in the room where their enclosure is located.
Arboreal Setup
As arboreal lizards, they require climbing opportunities. Branches of various diameters should be placed vertically, diagonally, and horizontally. Also, attach a branch or shelf to the upper section of the enclosure’s rear wall. A large rock under the basking light makes a wonderful basking site. Live plants such as aloe and palms can be added to the enclosure. Artificial plants are easily disinfected and make appropriate accessories.
Substrate
While frilled lizards rarely spend time on the ground, substrate must still be carefully considered. A suitable substrate holds humidity well and is not dusty. A combination of coco fiber, play sand, and organic potting soil with about a 2-inch depth is a good option. Orchid Bark, Forest Bedding or EarthMix are also good options. These substrates will allow for some digging and foraging, whilst also holding the humidity without going moldy. You should not use loose substrate with them.
Temperature and Lighting
Frilled lizards are basking lizards that require a good UVB source (mercury vapor or fluorescent) and basking bulbs for heat.
- Basking Area Temperature: The basking area temperature should be around 115 degrees Fahrenheit, focused on a branch in the upper quadrant of the cage. Daytime temperature needs to provide a hot basking spot of 115-120F / 46 - 49C. Because of their large frill they can sometimes accidentally burn themselves on bulbs.
- Ambient Temperatures: Ambient temperatures of 85 to 90 degrees should be maintained throughout the rest of the cage.
- Nighttime Heating: In cooler climates or during the winter, heat tape can be used to help warm the cage bottom, or ceramic heat emitters should provide the necessary ambient temperatures inside the enclosure. We recommend a ceramic heater bulb on a thermostat to meet minimum night time temperatures.
- UVB Lighting: It is essential to provide UVB lighting during the day for 10 - 16 hours a day, simulating the natural season. According to research performed by Arcadia Reptile, a Frilled Dragon needs a Basking Zone (this is the area they most often sit and bask) of 3-4 UVI. UVI is UV Index, a measure of strength of UV at any specific location. To reach 3-4 UVI you will want a T5 6% Bulb or T8 12% Bulb if the basking zone is 12-15″ away from your Dragon. However if you have a taller enclosure and your zone is 15-24″ away, you will need a stronger bulb such as a T5 12%. Remember that any UVB bulb needs to be changed as according to the instructions from the manufacturer, which can range from 6 - 12 months. This needs to be changed even if the bulb is still giving off light. They give off a normal amount of light to the human eye, but the UVB rays which your reptile needs to thrive and survive decay. These can be measured with a UV Meter, but this is an expensive piece of equipment. Therefore most people will simply change the bulb in accordance to the instructions on the box. Mark down the date you changed the bulb in your calendar as it’s easy to forget.
- Controlling Heat: You should always control your heat sources with a thermostat. Your heat source plugs into the thermostat and a probe goes into the vivarium. The probe detects the temperature and then automatically adjusts the heating element to the correct heat output.
- Measuring Heat: You should have a thermometer - either analogue, or digital - in the enclosure as it is possible for thermostats to be faulty and you want to double check that your temperatures are correct.
Humidity
Frilled dragons require a high level of humidity, around 70%. In the UK this means a large water bowl to create an ambient humidity, and a twice daily 30 second spray with room temperature water. If you live in a dryer climate you may need to spray more often.
Social Housing
Frilled Dragons are not a social species and can live their entire lives without meeting another Frilled Dragon and will not suffer because of it. Two males can be extremely dominant over territory and will fight. This can result in serious injury or even death. A male and female may breed two young. If deciding to breed you must be sure that your female is old enough and in good condition then the male is introduced, and have a plan for separating them. Two females will usually get on, but it’s not guaranteed.
General Care and Handling
Temperament
Frillies are quite complacent in their enclosures and can be that way outside of them as well, but some frilled lizards do not appreciate the stress of being moved into an open area. Please do not force this on your lizard if does not seem to enjoy being outside its cage’s comfort zone. A stressed frilled lizard will “frill out” with its mouth open, and it will probably hiss and may even try to bite you, or bluff -bite.
It will take some months of persistent healthy interaction to let your Frilled Dragon know that humans are safe, but once your Frilled Dragon trusts you they will tolerate handling and be happy to hand feed. The older they get the tamer they are. When handling, never pick up a Frilled Dragon by the tail or head. You should support them fully underneath the body. As they are an arboreal species who likes to climb, do not be surprised if they aim for the highest part of you - your head!
Hygiene
You should always put hygiene first. Washing your hands before is to remove any toxins or scents on your hands that might confuse the dragon (especially if they think you smell like food!), whilst washing your hands after washes away anything you’ve come into contact with on their skin.
Potential Health Issues
Prevention is key to maintaining a healthy frilled lizard.
- Keep your pet’s habitat clean and dry.
- Feed your pet properly - neither less nor in excess.
- Monitor the temperature, lighting, and humidity conditions in your pet’s enclosure periodically.
One of the first signs of dehydration is sunken eyes. Also if the skin is loose and you pinch it, and it stays pinched-looking, you have a dehydrated lizard.
Remember that substrates left unattended can result in severe mold formation in the enclosure. In addition, it could lead to the development of spores, which cause respiratory illnesses in frilled lizards.
Captive Bred vs. Wild Caught
Reptile Cymru recommends always obtaining Captive Bred animals where this is possible in your area. In the UK there are usually enough captive bred animals for the pet supply and there is no need to import, but some suppliers do still import them captive farmed. You should always ask the source of your Frilled Dragon before purchasing.
Captive Farmed animals are not taken directly from a natural, wild population, and thus do not contribute to species decline. This makes them a more ethical choice than Wild Caught animals, which are taken direct from the wild population. However, most or even all of the original animals will have been taken from the wild. This is also likely to be New Guinea populations due to export laws from Australia.
Captive Farmed animals are farmed in countries like Indonesia, where they are farmed in large, outside fenced off exhibits. Either the hatchlings are farmed when they appear, or the eggs are farmed and incubated and then the hatchlings housed in smaller enclosures, again, usually outside. Whilst this does mean they generally have a reasonable quality of life in their “farm”, export and shipping can be extremely stressful for these reptiles. Many reptiles still die during the export procedure, and animals can come into the country dehydrated and with parasite loads that are challenging.
If you are purchasing a pet, always look for a captive bred lizard and ask for confirmation of the country that the animal was born in. New Guinea and Australian Frilled Dragons are the same species, but because of their different ranges, they are different to each other slightly in size and appearance, with Australians being larger and more colourful - thus more in demand. New Guinea Frilled Dragons are not protected like Australian Frilled Dragons and therefore most Captive Farmed Frilled Dragons are farmed from originally Wild Caught New Guinea parents.
With complete bans on any exports from Australia now, there will be no new Australian bloodlines outside Australia. Because of this, it’s believed that the majority of Frilled Dragons in captivity will now have some or all New Guinea bloodlines. Be very careful of breeders guaranteeing Australian Frilled Dragons without showing photos of the exact parents of the animals, as well as multiple generations, this is a common way of trying to raise the price of a Frilled Dragon disingenuously.
Frilled Dragon Behavior
Defensive Behavior
Whilst some lizards such as Bearded Dragons gape to thermoregulate, in Frilled Dragons an open mouth is usual a sign of defense, aimed at showing their teeth and scaring off a predator. This is often accompanied by them erecting their frill to make themselves look as big and scary as possible.
Do Frilled Dragons Bite?
Yes. As this photo shows Frilled Dragons do have rows of small (approximately 1/8 inch), sharp teeth and a powerful jaw. They use these for crushing insects, and can also inflict wounds when defending themselves from predators, or fighting each other for territory or mating domination. A Frilled Dragon can bite a human, and it will break the skin slightly and can hurt - but is quite unusual. Frilled Dragons are a defensive species, and are not aggressive, so if you are getting bitten, you should evaluate your behaviour that led to the bite. A Frilled Dragon bite should be treated as any animal bite, by cleaning the wound and keeping it dry, but seek medical attention if you believe the wound is infected or not healing.
Salmonella
All reptiles can carry salmonella which can be passed onto humans primarily through poop, but occasionally the skin. However, you are far more likely to get Salmonella poisoning through food than reptiles. Having worked with reptiles for over twenty years, I’ve personally never come into contact with someone who has had Salmonella poisoning from a reptile, but I have had it from a turkey (thanks mum!). That being said, you should always put hygiene first.
Hibernation
In the wild Frilled Dragons may hibernate during the winter months out of necessity to survive. In captivity there is limited data on the benefits of this. Some breeders think that as with many species, this might encourage the reproductive cycle as the Dragon innately knows that spring follows winter and spring time is breeding time.
Tail Autonomy
No. Frilled Dragons have bone-filled tails that can be damaged or amputated but this is a severe injury and will never grow back.
Shedding
Babies may shed every couple of weeks as they are growing very quickly. As they get older they will shed less and less and it can vary from every month to every few months and then longer as their growth slows down. Adults will only shed once or twice a year.
Smell
Frilled Dragons themselves do not smell but any poop does have an odour and they will usually go every day, so it’s important to keep the vivarium clean. Some substrates do have an odour to them which some people like and others don’t!
Can Frilled Dragons Recognize Faces?
Yes! We believe a Frilled Dragon can recognize faces and may be calmer with a person that they already know and trust.
Interaction with Other Pets
Yes! Your cat or dog may be interested in watching the dragon. We would recommend ensuring your vivarium is securely locked if you have other pets to avoid any accidental opening, and having the vivarium up off the ground will keep it out of direct eyesight. Adult Frilled Dragons can be very tame and placid and happy to sit around children.
Reproduction
This species is oviparous. C. February or March. C. are territorial and seem to use their frill to attract potential mates. Clutch size ranges from 4-13, with an average of 8 eggs per clutch.