The African fat-tailed gecko ( Hemitheconyx caudicinctus) is a captivating and increasingly popular reptile in the pet trade. Native to West Africa, these nocturnal, ground-dwelling lizards are known for their docile dispositions and relatively easy care requirements, making them a favorite among reptile enthusiasts. They closely resemble leopard geckos, but they're smaller and come in fewer colors. Their eponymous fat tails are used to store fat, and they can discard them as a defense mechanism if attacked.
Natural Habitat and Appearance
African fat-tailed geckos are found in the wild in West Africa, ranging from Senegal to northern Cameroon, where they inhabit arid grasslands, dry Sahel, and savannah environments. They often seek refuge near rock crevices and within the leaf litter of dry forests, preferring humid burrows.
These geckos typically reach 7 to 9 inches in length as adults. They possess a stout body, stubby limbs, an oval head, and pebbled skin. Their most distinctive feature is their plump, segmented tail, which serves as a fat storage reserve. The typical coloring consists of alternating bands of medium and dark brown, sometimes accented with dark spots and white markings, including a white stripe running from head to tail.
Enclosure
Size
African fat-tailed geckos may seem small, but they still need an enclosure that is large enough to give them adequate opportunity to explore, hunt, and generally exercise natural behaviors. They are also terrestrial, which means that they are a ground-dwelling species, and generally prefer terrariums that are wider than they are tall.
The minimum recommended enclosure size for a single African fat-tailed gecko is 36”L x 18”W x 18”H. Wherever possible, larger is strongly recommended! Although they are considered terrestrial, African fat-tailed geckos are built to live amongst rocks, and are capable climbers.
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While a 10-gallon aquarium may house a pair of geckos, providing ample space is always beneficial.
Here are some enclosures that are appropriate for housing African fat-tailed geckos:
- Kages 36″x24″x18″ PVC Reptile Enclosure
- Toad Ranch SF36 3’x2’x19 Luxury Reptile Enclosure
- Repti Zoo 36″ x 18″ x 18″ Reptile Terrarium
Housing multiple geckos
African fat-tailed geckos are territorial, solitary animals. This species is generally considered to be solitary, and does not appear to live in groups in the wild. Multiple female geckos can be housed together or can be housed with a single male. Seufer et al. notes that a pair can be successfully housed together in a large enough enclosure, but keep in mind that if the geckos don’t get along, they can fight and severely injure one another. Males in particular are known to fight.
Substrate
Providing substrate for African fat-tailed geckos is a bit of a controversial issue, but the short of it is that as long as a naturalistic substrate is used, and the gecko is adequately heated, hydrated, has access to UVB, and is otherwise healthy, there’s nothing to be worried about. For a more thorough explanation, read this article.
For African fat-tailed geckos, it’s best to use a well-drained, naturalistic substrate that is similar to what is found in their native habitat. This substrate should be layered at least 4″ deep to allow for burrowing behavior. Here are a few options:
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- DIY semi-arid mix: 40% organic topsoil, 40% play sand, 20% Zoo Med Excavator Clay
- Lugarti Natural Reptile Bedding
- Zoo Med ReptiSand
- Exo Terra Desert/Riverbed Sand
- Exo Terra Stone Desert
The ideal African fat-tailed gecko setup will include bedding of larger vermiculite granules that are best for egg-laying. The larger granules don't break down as quickly. You'll need to spray the bedding periodically to maintain its moisture content. You can also use shredded newspaper or orchid bark instead of vermiculite.
New African fat-tailed geckos should be >6 months old and must pass quarantine before naturalistic substrate is added to their enclosure. Before then, use paper towels or blue shop towels.
Feces and urates should be removed daily, and contaminated substrate should be scooped out and replaced.
Decor and Enrichment
Decorations play a vital role in your African fat-tailed gecko’s enclosure as environmental enrichment. Enrichment items encourage exercise, stimulate your pet’s natural instincts, and help promote overall wellbeing. And, of course, they make the enclosure look nicer! Without décor, your gecko’s terrarium is just an expensive box of dirt.
Because fat-tailed geckos are used to rocky, uneven surfaces, you should include items for them to climb on in their cage. They're active at night, and during the day, they'll usually be hanging out in their favorite hiding spots. Providing enrichment items in the form of decor will encourage your African fat-tailed gecko to get enough exercise. Give your pet hollow logs, leaf litter, branches, and plants, either artificial or drought resistant, to entertain your gecko. You want to make sure your gecko has lots of places to hide, climb, and explore.
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Hollow logs, thick branches, leaf litter, ledges, and artificial or drought-resistant live plants work well as décor in an African fat-tailed gecko terrarium. You can also provide additional hideouts. Ensure that there are hiding spots and decor on both the hot and cool sides of your enclosure so your gecko can make use of the whole tank and feel secure.
Temperature and Lighting
Temperature Gradient
Humans are warm-blooded, which means that our body temperature is automatically regulated. African fat-tailed geckos, however, are cold-blooded, which means that they have to move between areas of different temperatures to regulate their body temperature. In the wild, African fat-tailed geckos warm up during the day by sleeping in a warm burrow or patch of sunlight. In captivity, the best way to replicate the warming effects of sunlight is with a heat lamp, possibly supplemented (but not replaced) by a heat mat.
African fat-tailed geckos need three temperature zones. One area of their tank should be a warm hide that's 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The warm side of their tank should be 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, while the cool side should be 70 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
Generally speaking, a ~50w PAR30 halogen heat bulb or two should be plenty for achieving the desired temperatures in your African fat-tailed gecko terrarium. However, if the bulb is mounted inside the enclosure, a halogen bulb is likely to be too intense and I recommend an incandescent spot bulb instead, such as the Exo Terra Intense Basking Spot or ReptiZoo Intense Basking Spot. Exo Terra provides approximations of expected basking temperature based on distance on their site, but you may still need to experiment with bulb wattage to get it just right.
RAINY/WARM SEASON (April-October)
- Warm hide: 90-94°F (32-34°C)
- Cool side: 72-77°F (22-25°C)
- Nighttime: 72-77°F (22-25°C)
DRY/COOL SEASON (November-March)
- Warm hide: 79°F (26°C)
- Cool side: 68-74°F (20-23°C)
- Nighttime: 63-64°F (17-18°C)
Creating the Basking Area
To create a warm hide, you can take a small box and put it directly under the heat lamp. Place a slab of stone like an aquarium slate on top of the box to create a basking platform. The box underneath the tile will be the warm hide, which should be kept at around 90 degrees. You can add a heat mat under the box if the warm hide isn't getting warm enough, although you should cover it with one inch of a substrate to prevent direct contact with the hide.
Place one of the hides (I prefer a rectangular black box hide for this) directly under the heat lamp(s) and place a light-colored slab of stone (ex: flagstone, sandstone) or hardwood on top to create a basking platform. The hide underneath will be the warm hide. The heat lamp should be able to heat the warm hide to the target temperature, but this can vary depending on room temperature, thickness of the basking surface, etc.
If your warm hide is not getting warm enough: add a heat mat under the hide box, covered with 1” of substrate to prevent direct contact. Plug this heat mat in to a thermostat such as the Inkbird brand. Place the thermostat probe inside the warm hide to regulate its temperature correctly. For best results, schedule your heat mat to turn off a few hours after sunset rather than immediately at sunset to replicate that lingering-warmth effect nocturnal reptiles benefit from in the wild!
Tracking Temperature
To measure the general temperature of different areas of your terrarium, you can use an infrared thermometer (a.k.a. temperature gun). To passively track basking temperature, use a digital probe thermometer, with the probe placed on the basking surface under the heat source.
Lighting
African fat-tailed geckos are nocturnal, which means that they are primarily active at night. This means that they are likely to prefer cooler temperatures, are exposed to low levels of indirect UVB during the day, and have exceptional night vision.
Since African fat-tailed geckos don't need as much light as lizards that are active during the day, they can survive without a UVB bulb as long as they're getting enough D3 in their diet. However, African fat-tailed geckos are capable of surviving without UVB lighting as long as they receive a high-D3 calcium supplement, but they are most likely to thrive when UVB is provided.
All lights should be turned off at night. They need 12 hours of daylight, although you can provide 11 hours of daylight during the winter and 13 hours during the summer, with a gradual transition. All lights should be turned off at night. You can use a 12/12 day/night cycle, or you can vary day length seasonally to encourage more natural hormonal rhythms. If you choose to do the latter, lights should be on for up to 13 hours/day during summer, and down to 11 hours/day during winter, with gradual increments in-between.
The UVB lamp should be installed on the warm side of the enclosure, overlapping with the heat lamp, because heat and UVB work together. The UVB lamp itself should span no more than half the enclosure’s length.
In order to get the right strength of UVB (measured by UV Index, or UVI), distance, obstructions, and fixture type must be considered. The distances listed below should be measured from the gecko’s back on the basking platform to the UVB lamp.
Lamp placed over mesh:
- Arcadia ShadeDweller 7% - 8-12″ / 20-30cm
- Zoo Med T5 HO ReptiSun 5.0 - 14-20″ / 35-50cm
Lamp installed under mesh:
- Arcadia ShadeDweller 7% - 10-16″ / 25-40cm
For best results, use an Arcadia or Vivarium Electronics brand T5 HO fixture. Josh’s Frogs and Bio Dude T5 HO fixtures are essentially the same as the VE.
Humidity
Try to mimic both a wet and dry season for your African fat-tailed gecko. African fat-tailed geckos do best in an environment that cycles between wet and dry seasons:
- Rainy/warm season - 70-80% daytime, 100% nighttime
- Dry/cool season - 50% daytime, 70-75% nighttime
It is also important to your gecko’s health to provide them with consistent access to an area of higher humidity. This can be done with a “humid hide” - a cave or hide with moistened substrate (NOT sphagnum moss), placed on the cool end of the enclosure. This helps your gecko shed successfully and stay hydrated. Keep the humidity levels in this hide around the same as your current target nighttime humidity.
You can monitor humidity levels in your humid hide with a digital probe hygrometer with the probe placed in the middle. You will need another device if you want to monitor the humid hide separately.
During the wet season, humidity should be 70% to 80% during the daytime and 100% at night. During the dry season, the humidity should be 50% during the daytime and 70% to 75% at night. During both the wet and dry "seasons," your fat-tailed gecko should have access to an area of higher humidity. You can provide this by ensuring your fat-tailed gecko has access to a hide with a moistened substrate that's kept on the cool side of the tank.
To increase humidity levels in the enclosure, use a handheld pressure sprayer. Misting the enclosure a few times a week with an Exo Terra Reptile Mister, and the use of moss and live plants can help maintain humidity. The humidity can be read with an accurate digital hygrometer.
Diet and Nutrition
African fat-tailed geckos are insectivores, which means that they eat insects. They are entirely carnivorous. They eat crickets and larval worms, such as mealworms, wax worms, and hornworms. In the wild, they also eat other types of small insects like beetles and roaches. The African fat-tailed gecko diet typically consists of live reptile food like crickets and/or mealworms. They may also readily accept silkworms, waxworms or pinkie mice, but these food items should only be given as a supplement as they are high in fat content.
How often an African fat-tailed gecko needs to depends on age: The general rule is to offer 2 appropriately-sized bugs per 1 inch of your gecko’s length, or however much they can eat in 15 minutes. Juveniles should be fed daily, and young adults fed every other day/every 3 days. Adults whose tail is fatter than their neck can be fed every 5 days. If you have a juvenile African fat-tailed gecko, feed them every day. Adult fat-tailed geckos should be fed every two or three days. If your fat-tailed gecko's tail is fatter than their neck, you can feed them every five days.
Feeder insects:
- crickets
- dubia roach nymphs
- discoid roach nymphs
- black soldier fly larvae
- mealworms
- darkling beetles
- hornworms
- silkworms
- grasshoppers/locusts
The key to providing a healthy, balanced diet for your pet is VARIETY. Provide as varied of a diet as you possibly can, and you will be rewarded with a healthier pet that always looks forward to mealtime.
Feeder insects can be easily sourced online from reputable breeders such as Dubia.com, Beastmode Silks, and Luna Roaches.
Gut Loading and Supplementation
African fat-tailed geckos in captivity need additional minerals and vitamins. Special powders are sold in pet shops so you can "dust" the crickets with them before feeding them to your fat-tailed gecko. You can also ensure your fat-tailed gecko gets the nutrients it needs by "gut loading," which is the process of feeding the insects a high-nutrient diet before feeding them to your fat-tailed gecko. Insects should be gut loaded with either a commercial gut load product or a mix of either baby cereal, fish flakes or high grade dry dog/cat food as well as leafy greens such as endive, dandelions or romaine lettuce. Gut loading ultimately means that the prey insect is acting as a vehicle to pass on beneficial nutrients to your gecko.
All insect feeders should be lightly “dusted” with calcium powder to balance the calcium-phosphorus ratio. Multivitamin powder can be used every once in a while to provide extra nutrients. All-in-one powders provide a balanced dose of both at once.
There are many options in terms of supplements, but Repashy CalciumPlus LoD is a solid all-in-one supplement for African fat-tailed geckos that have appropriate UVB. For best results, use as directed by the manufacturer.
Water
African fat-tailed geckos should have free access to a shallow bowl of fresh, clean water daily.
Handling
African fat-tailed geckos can be shy, but can also be open to being handled and can become tame with regular contact. Once you’ve brought your gecko home, it’s tempting to start playing with them right away. But wait 2 weeks after buying before beginning handling - your gecko needs time to settle into their new home, and handling on top of that can cause additional stress. If your gecko hasn’t eaten by the time the 2 weeks are over, do not handle and make an appointment with an experienced reptile vet.
After the 2 week waiting period is over, introduce yourself to your gecko by putting your hand in its enclosure every night for a few minutes so it can get used to your scent and presence. They should already be relatively familiar with you, since you’ve been in their space replacing water, offering food, cleaning up, etc. Let it come to you! (Food bribes can be helpful here.)
It is important to always take great care when handling a gecko and it is important to never hold or constrain a gecko by its tail. The tail of a fat-tailed gecko will detach as part of a defense mechanism called caudal autotomy. When you begin handling, start with 5 minute sessions every other day, gradually increasing the length of the sessions and escalating to daily. Support the feet, body, and tail. Never grab the tail, as it is detachable. Consistency is key to successful taming.
Stay close to the ground or a soft surface (ex: bed, couch) in case the gecko jumps. You want handling to be a positive experience, and injury is not a positive experience.