Eileen Ford (née Otte; March 25, 1922 - July 9, 2014) was a prominent American modeling agency executive who, along with her husband Gerard "Jerry" Ford, co-founded Ford Models in 1946. The agency became one of the most successful and influential in the mid and late-20th century, transforming the modeling industry into a legitimate and lucrative profession.
Early Life and Career
Eileen Ford's journey began long before she revolutionized the modeling world. She attended Barnard College, where she worked as a model for Harry Conover's modeling agency during her summer breaks. In 1944, she met her future husband, Gerard "Jerry" Ford, near Columbia University. While Jerry was deployed, Eileen gained experience as a secretary for photographer Elliot Clark, and later as a fashion stylist, copywriter, and fashion reporter for The Tobe Report.
During her pregnancy, Eileen started working as a secretary for several models, managing their calls from her father's New York City law office. She charged each model a monthly fee of $65 to $75 for her administrative support. In March 1946, Jerry returned from his deployment, and together, they established their modeling agency. Within a year, Ford Models became one of the most successful agencies in the nation, grossing $250,000.
Building Ford Models: A Revolution in the Industry
The Fords' agency stood out for its professionalism and innovative approach. Their first superstar model was Jean Patchett. Unlike other agencies, Ford Models had the financial stability to implement a voucher system, ensuring models were paid fairly and on time. Within two years, they were serious competitors to the leading agencies of Huntington Hartford and John Robert Powers.
A pivotal moment came when Dorian Leigh, pregnant with her third child in 1948, decided to close her own modeling agency. Leigh contacted Eileen, explaining that her 15-year-old sister, Suzy Parker, was earning only $25 per hour at Huntington Hartford's agency. Believing Suzy deserved $40 per hour, Leigh offered to join Ford Models if they would represent Parker sight unseen. Eager to have Leigh on board, the Fords agreed. They soon realized Parker had the potential to become a major star, and she indeed became the most successful model of the 1950s, propelling Ford Models to the top of the industry.
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In the 1940s and 1950s, Ford Models represented top models such as Mary Jane Russell, Carmen Dell'Orefice, and Dovima. By 1954, the Fords were highly successful and living in a duplex apartment on Park Avenue.
Eileen Ford's Management Style and Influence
Eileen Ford was known for her hands-on approach to managing her models. She provided them with hairdressers and dermatologists and constantly offered diet advice. She even allowed models to live with her to ensure they stayed out of trouble and made their early morning appointments.
Eleven of Ford's prominent models were featured on the April 1955 issue of McCall's magazine, including Parker, Leigh, Jean Patchett, Patsy Shally, Lillian Marcuson, Nan Rees, Leonie Vernet, Georgia Hamilton, Dolores Hawkins, Kathy Dennis, and Mary Jane Russell. Ford also advocated for standardized hours and wages for models, contributing to the professionalization of the industry.
Expansion and Competition
In 1957, Dorian Leigh, then 40 and retired from modeling, started another modeling agency in France. However, she faced legal challenges as French authorities initially considered it an illegal employment agency. After winning her case, Leigh contacted the Fords about expanding their business into Europe. The Fords agreed, and Leigh represented them in France and scouted for new talent across Europe. Her success led to the opening of branches in London and Hamburg, Germany.
In the early 1960s, Ford Models represented Martha Stewart, who, like Eileen, attended Barnard College. Stewart modeled briefly in her late teens and early 20s, including for Chanel. Other top models of the 1960s included Wilhelmina Cooper, Jean Shrimpton, Ann Turkel, Agneta Frieberg, Ali MacGraw, Candice Bergen, Tilly Tizani, Sondra Peterson, and Donna Michelle.
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To mark the twentieth anniversary of Ford Models in 1966, Jerry Ford told The New York Times that they were billing $100,000 per week and had become the first modeling agency to use a computer system.
The 1970s: Continued Success and New Challenges
In the early 1970s, Ford Models remained the leading agency, representing Jerry Hall, Christie Brinkley, Rene Russo, Kim Basinger, Janice Dickinson, Lauren Hutton, Karen Graham, Susan Blakely, and others. Hutton and Graham were among the first models to secure exclusive makeup contracts with Revlon and Estée Lauder.
However, in 1977, John Casablancas, founder of Elite Model Management, began poaching Ford's top models and her top booking agent, Monique Pillard. The Fords attempted to sue Casablancas and hired attorney Roy Cohn. During this period, Ford Models expanded, establishing a successful Men's Division that dominated the pages of GQ magazine. In 1975, they also launched a children's division, with the aspiration of representing Brooke Shields, who was already an established model at age nine.
The competition between Elite and Ford intensified in the late 1970s, with models frequently moving between agencies. Eileen noted that several Ford models from the 1950s and 1960s had died from smoking and breast cancer, while some 1970s models died from drug use, including Gia Carangi, who died of AIDS in 1986.
Later Years and Legacy
In 1981, Ford Models launched an international modeling competition called "Face of the 80s," later known as Ford Models Supermodel of the World. By the mid-1980s, drug-addicted blonde models were replaced by more professional, brunette-haired models like Cindy Crawford, Renée Simonsen, Carol Alt, Linda Evangelista, and Christy Turlington. Modeling fees increased rapidly, and several models earned millions of dollars per year.
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In 1995, Katie Ford took over her parents' agency after their retirement. The agency's 50th anniversary was celebrated in publications such as American Photo magazine and Top Model magazine. Katie Ford served as CEO for 12 years, from 1995 to 2007.
Eileen Ford's Views
Eileen Ford was known for her strong opinions and traditional values. In her 1975 book, Beauty Now and Forever: Secrets of Beauty After 35, she expressed some less-than-modern views on gender politics.
Eileen Ford's Book of Model Beauty
In 1968, Ford shared her expertise in Eileen Ford's Book of Model Beauty, offering beauty tips, nutrition advice, and exercise routines. This book provided insights into the standards and practices she upheld at Ford Models.
Eileen Ford's Diet Philosophy
Eileen Ford was an advocate for healthy eating and maintaining a slim physique. She was known for her strict diet advice, often discouraging models from indulging in unhealthy foods. Ford believed that models needed to be disciplined and committed to their appearance to succeed in the industry. Her diet philosophy emphasized moderation, balanced nutrition, and avoiding excessive weight gain.
Eileen Ford's Death
Eileen Ford died on July 9, 2014, at a hospital in Morristown, New Jersey, from complications of meningioma and osteoporosis. Her husband, Jerry Ford, had passed away on August 24, 2008, at the age of 83.