The Eastern hognose snake (Heterodon platyrhinos) is a fascinating and unique species found only in North America. Known for its upturned snout and dramatic defense displays, this mildly venomous snake has specific dietary needs that are crucial to its health and well-being, especially when kept in captivity. This article delves into the intricate details of the Eastern hognose snake's diet, covering everything from its natural prey in the wild to the best feeding practices for captive individuals.
Understanding the Eastern Hognose Snake
Before diving into the specifics of their diet, it's essential to understand the characteristics and natural habitat of the Eastern hognose snake. They are found from eastern-central Minnesota and Wisconsin to southern Ontario, Canada, and extreme southern New Hampshire, south to southern Florida, and west to eastern Texas and western Kansas. Their habitat includes forests, woodlands, fields, shrubland, prairies, grassland, river valleys, and coastal areas. These diurnal and solitary animals are mostly active during the summer months and hibernate from September to November.
Eastern hognose snakes are known for their variable color patterns, ranging from red, green, orange, brown, gray to black, or any combination thereof depending on locality. They can be blotched, checkered, or patternless, with a belly that is typically solid gray, yellow, or cream-colored.
When threatened, Eastern hognose snakes exhibit a remarkable defense mechanism, flattening their neck and raising their head off the ground, hissing and striking, though they rarely bite. Although rear-fanged, their venom is considered non-harmful to humans, primarily used to subdue their prey.
Natural Diet in the Wild
Eastern hognose snakes are carnivores with a strong preference for amphibians. Their diet in the wild primarily consists of toads, but they also consume frogs, salamanders, small mammals, and other invertebrates. The snake's specialized rear fangs are used to inject a mild, amphibian-specific venom into prey and to "pop" inflated toads, making them easier to swallow.
Read also: Dietary Habits of Whip-poor-wills
Studies of wild Western hognoses reveal that while toads are their primary food source, they occasionally eat frogs, salamanders, snakes, lizards, reptile eggs, birds, mammals, and insects. However, birds and mammals are extremely rare in their natural diet.
Dietary Needs in Captivity
While wild Eastern hognose snakes have a diverse diet, providing a balanced and appropriate diet for captive snakes requires careful consideration.
The Problem with Rodents
While young mice can be used to feed hognose snakes, these calorie-dense feeders aren’t ideal for their health and should only be a part of rotation at most. Hognose snakes fed primarily rodents are more prone to obesity and related health issues than those fed a more natural diet.
Alternative Prey Items
To mimic their natural diet, consider these non-rodent options:
- African clawed frogs
- Cane toads
- Cuban tree frogs
- Redback salamanders
- Gray treefrogs
- Axolotls
- Quail eggs
- Frozen/thawed anoles
- Dropped gecko tails
- Reptilinks
If wild amphibians are used as prey, ensure they are harvested from areas free of pesticides or herbicides to avoid poisoning the snake. Freezing wild-caught amphibians before feeding can also help eliminate parasites.
Read also: Red Bat Feeding Habits
Treats
Human-grade cuts of meat or bits of cooked egg can be given as occasional treats, but they should not be a regular part of the diet due to their lack of essential nutrients.
Feeding Schedule and Prey Size
Designer-Morphs Western Hognose Snakes by John R. Berry suggests the following feeding schedule:
- Juveniles: Food every 4-5 days
- Adults: Food once per week
It is crucial to avoid overfeeding, as it can lead to obesity and organ damage. Hognose snakes don’t seem to “expand” as well as other snakes, possibly because they’re not constrictors and had to adapt to smaller, slower prey. Prey items should be the same diameter as the snake’s head, no larger. Gradually increase the size of the prey as the snake grows.
If the prey is too large, the snake may regurgitate, which is extremely stressful and potentially dangerous. It is better to offer multiple small meals rather than one large meal. If the snake is hungry, it will take it. However, if your snake starts to gain too much weight, reduce the number of prey items per feeding.
Preparing the Prey
Hognose snakes rely on their sense of smell to find prey, not a heat signature. However, they seem to respond better to warm prey items, possibly because the warmth disperses the scent more effectively.
Read also: Eating Habits: Eastern Coral Snake
If using frozen-thawed prey, thaw it in the refrigerator the night before feeding day to discourage bacterial growth. About 15-30 minutes before feeding, place the prey in a BPA-free plastic bag and submerge it in warm water. The prey should be about 98-100°F before offering it to the snake.
Feeding Techniques
Hognose snakes are visually-dependent, so simulate movement by wiggling the prey to encourage the snake to strike. Offer prey from long, soft-tipped tweezers to avoid accidental bites. Do not handle the hognose snake for 24-48 hours after feeding to prevent regurgitation.
Addressing Lack of Appetite
Lack of appetite is a common issue with hognose snakes, especially Easterns and Southerns. If a hognose snake refuses to eat, consult a veterinarian for guidance.
The Importance of Vitamin Supplements
Although hognose snakes should obtain all necessary nutrients from their prey, captive-bred feeder animals may lack the nutritional value of wild prey. Some studies suggest that commercially-bred feeder rodents are deficient in crucial nutrients like vitamin D.
To address this, lightly dust prey items with a calcium + vitamin supplement occasionally. Replace supplements every 6 months due to the natural decay of vitamin ingredients. Recommended supplements include:
- Repashy Calcium Plus LoD
- Arcadia RevitaliseD3
Water Requirements
Like all living beings, hognose snakes need water. Provide a large, heavy water dish that can accommodate their entire body for soaking. Place the water dish on the warm side of the enclosure to increase humidity. Change the water daily and disinfect the dish weekly with an animal-safe disinfectant.
Avoid distilled or softened water, as the lack of minerals can create osmotic imbalance within the snake’s body, leading to dehydration and malnutrition. Filtered and spring water are generally safe.
Enclosure and Environmental Enrichment
Enclosure Size
The minimum recommended enclosure size for an average-sized single eastern hognose is 36”L x 18”W x 18”H. However, larger is always better.
Lighting
Although hognose snakes can technically survive without UVB lighting, it is recommended to provide it. The 22” Arcadia 6% or Zoo Med T5 HO Reptisun 5.0 is likely to work the best for a hognose snake in an 18-24” tall enclosure. Replace the UVB bulb every 12 months to maintain its output. If using a bioactive setup, a plant light is also needed to encourage healthy plant growth.
Temperature and Humidity
Eastern hognose snakes need a temperature gradient within their enclosure to regulate their body temperature. A basking area can be created using a halogen flood heat bulb like the 50w Arcadia Halogen Heat Lamp (optimum wattage may vary) and a 5.5” ceramic-socket dome lamp fixture. Use a lamp dimmer to reduce the heat if the basking area gets too warm.
They also need a moderate to high humidity environment, with an average of 50-60% daytime humidity and higher levels at night. Use a mister to raise the humidity and moisten the substrate as needed.
Substrate
A thick layer of bioactive-compatible substrate is essential for a bioactive hognose snake enclosure. A soil-like mix that mimics fertile forest soil is ideal. This can be achieved with a mixture of 40% organic topsoil, 40% fine sand, and 20% coconut fiber or peat moss, mixed with leaf litter, sphagnum moss, and beneficial microfauna. Add CUC organisms like powder blue/orange isopods, dwarf white isopods, and springtails to make the substrate functional.
Enclosure Décor
Enclosure décor is crucial for providing environmental enrichment. Use logs, cork flats/hollows, caves, and plants to encourage natural behaviors. Live plants are particularly important for a functioning mini-ecosystem.
Handling
After bringing a new hognose snake home, avoid handling it until it is eating regularly, which can take two weeks to two months. Before handling, wash hands to remove potentially harmful bacteria and make them smell inedible. Gently tap the snake’s head with a paper towel roll to signal that it’s time for handling, not food. Pick it up with two hands, one behind the head and one supporting the body. Avoid handling within 48 hours of a meal or when the snake’s eyes are cloudy.
Conservation Status and Threats
While the Eastern hognose snake is not endangered or threatened, it holds a conservation status of special concern in New York State due to habitat loss from development and road mortality.