Cuban False Chameleon Diet: A Comprehensive Guide

Cuban false chameleons ( Anolis barbatus ) are captivating lizards gaining popularity as pets due to their unique appearance and relatively docile nature. These lizards, native to Cuba, are not true chameleons but belong to the Anole family. Characterized by their chameleon-like head, bulging eyes, thick neck, spiny dewlap, and rough scales, they make fascinating additions to reptile enthusiasts' collections. This article delves into the dietary needs of Cuban false chameleons, offering a comprehensive guide to ensure their health and well-being in captivity.

Understanding the Cuban False Chameleon

Cuban false chameleons are a medium-sized species of anole, growing up to 7 inches long from snout to vent, with a tail slightly shorter than its body. Their unique physical features and calm disposition make them increasingly popular in the US pet trade. These lizards primarily inhabit the transition zone between dry forest and upland rainforest in western Cuba. They are arboreal, meaning they spend most of their time in trees, perching on narrow branches and twigs.

Essential Dietary Components

Cuban false chameleons are primarily molluscivorous, meaning their diet mainly consists of gastropods like snails and slugs. In captivity, while they can adapt to alternative prey, snails should remain a significant part of their diet, especially captive-bred snails.

The Importance of Snails

Snails are a crucial component of a Cuban false chameleon's diet due to their nutritional content and the specific adaptations these lizards have developed for consuming them. These adaptations include specialized cranial morphology and bite force capabilities suited for molluscivory.

Insect Variety

While snails are essential, a varied diet is vital for the overall health of your Cuban false chameleon. A varied diet will lead to a healthier pet that always looks forward to mealtime.

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Suitable feeder insects include:

  • Crickets
  • Dubia roaches (nymphs)
  • Discoid roaches (nymphs)
  • Grasshoppers/locusts
  • Black soldier fly larvae
  • Mealworms
  • Hornworms
  • Silkworms

Supplementation

To ensure your Cuban false chameleon receives all the necessary nutrients, it's crucial to supplement their diet with calcium and vitamins. Lightly dust all feeder insects with a 50/50 mixture of calcium and multivitamin powders to correct the calcium-phosphorus ratio and provide extra nutrition at each feeding. Repashy Calcium Plus LoD is a recommended all-in-one supplement for beginners.

Feeding Schedule and Amounts

Juvenile Chameleons

Juveniles should be fed daily, allowing them to eat as much as they can consume.

Adult Chameleons

Adults can be fed every other day, providing only as much food as they can consume in about 5 minutes.

Monitoring Food Intake

The best way to gauge diet is from the lizard's body condition and his response to food. Some animals do ok with every day feeding, others with every other day feeding. But if he's a growing juvenile, daily would be the recommended way to start.

Addressing Feeding Issues

Picky Eaters

Some Cuban false chameleons may be picky eaters, especially when introduced to new food items. In such cases, it's essential to be patient and persistent. If your chameleon refuses snails, it may not recognize them as food, especially if it wasn't fed snails by the breeder.

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Solutions for Picky Eaters

  • Offer a Variety of Insects: Introduce different types of insects to stimulate appetite and ensure a balanced diet.
  • Tong Feeding: Try tong-feeding to entice your chameleon to eat.
  • Hand Feeding: If tong feeding doesn't work, try hand-feeding.
  • Scenting: Soak snails in a bit of water to make them more appealing.
  • Patience: Keep offering snails and other food items, as the chameleon may eventually accept them.

Newly Acquired Chameleons

A newly acquired Cuban false chameleon may not eat immediately due to the stress of a new environment. It can take time for them to adjust and feel comfortable enough to eat.

Solutions for Newly Acquired Chameleons

  • Allow Adjustment Time: Leave the chameleon alone for about 2 weeks to settle in.
  • Minimize Handling: Avoid handling the chameleon during the initial adjustment period.
  • Maintain Proper Environment: Ensure the enclosure has the correct temperature, humidity, and lighting.

Creating the Ideal Habitat

Enclosure Size

The absolute minimum terrarium size for a single Cuban false chameleon is 18”L x 18”W x 36”H. However, providing a larger enclosure is always better, as it allows for more space to explore and exercise natural behaviors.

Environmental Conditions

Maintaining the correct environmental conditions is crucial for the health and well-being of Cuban false chameleons.

  • Basking Temperature: 90°F (32°C)
  • Cool Side Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
  • Nighttime Temperature: 65-72°F (18-22°C)
  • Humidity: 40-60% during the day, up to 100% at night

Lighting

Cuban false chameleons are diurnal and require UVB lighting for survival. UVB is essential for vitamin D3 synthesis, which aids in calcium absorption.

  • UVB Bulbs: Use UVB bulbs housed in a reflective fixture.
  • Light Cycle: Lights should be on for 12 hours a day or cycled seasonally according to local sunrise and sunset times.
  • Plant Grow Lights: Plant grow lights can also benefit the environment.

Humidity Management

Maintaining proper humidity levels is essential for the health of Cuban false chameleons. Humidity should be measured by at least one digital probe hygrometer with the probe placed in the middle of the enclosure.

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  • Misting: Mist the enclosure twice daily with a spray bottle, once in the morning and once at night.
  • Substrate: Use a naturalistic substrate to help maintain humidity levels.
  • Water Bowl: Provide a small water bowl for drinking and humidity.
  • Humidifier/Fogger: In dry climates, use a cool mist humidifier or fogger to maintain high humidity levels, especially at night.

Substrate

A suitable substrate helps maintain correct humidity levels and makes the enclosure more attractive.

Recommended substrates:

  • DIY tropical mix (60% organic topsoil, 40% coconut fiber)
  • Zoo Med Reptisoil
  • Zoo Med Eco Earth
  • Exo Terra Plantation Soil
  • The Bio Dude Terra Fauna bioactive kit

Substrate should be at least 2 inches deep and completely replaced every 3-4 months.

Enclosure Enrichment

Enrichment is vital for a Cuban false chameleon's mental and physical well-being. An empty terrarium can lead to boredom and reduce their quality of life.

  • Branches and Perches: Provide narrow perches and branches for climbing and basking.
  • Live or Artificial Foliage: Add foliage for hiding and security.
  • Hiding Places: Ensure plenty of hiding spots to reduce stress.
  • Climbing Material: Place climbing material at all levels of the enclosure to allow for proper thermoregulation.

Health Considerations

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

Improper diet or insufficient UVB exposure can lead to metabolic bone disease (MBD). MBD is a common issue in captive reptiles and is caused by a calcium deficiency.

Prevention of MBD

  • Proper Diet: Ensure a diet rich in calcium-rich insects and snails.
  • Calcium Supplementation: Dust feeder insects with calcium supplements.
  • UVB Lighting: Provide adequate UVB lighting to promote vitamin D3 synthesis and calcium absorption.

Signs of MBD

  • Lethargy
  • Weakness
  • Swollen limbs
  • Deformities

If you suspect your Cuban false chameleon has MBD, consult with a reptile veterinarian immediately.

Other Health Issues

  • Nutritional Deficiencies: Ensure a varied diet and proper supplementation to prevent deficiencies.
  • Impaction: Avoid using small, loose substrates that can be ingested and cause impaction.
  • Dehydration: Maintain proper humidity levels and provide fresh water to prevent dehydration.

Taming and Handling

Cuban false chameleons are generally best left alone rather than handled regularly. They don't typically appreciate handling like dogs and cats do.

Taming Process

If you wish to tame your false chameleon, follow these steps:

  1. Acclimation Period: After bringing your false chameleon home, leave it alone for 2 weeks or so to settle in.
  2. Introduce Yourself with Food: Use soft-tipped feeding tongs to offer food.
  3. Habituate to Your Presence: Get your hands in the enclosure daily for spot cleaning and water changes.
  4. Encourage Interaction: Once the chameleon regularly takes food from the tongs, encourage it to come to you by enticing it to climb onto your arm.
  5. Proper Handling: If you must pick up your false chameleon, gently scoop it up from below and support its feet.

Handling Precautions

  • Never approach quickly or from above, as this can scare your pet.
  • Always support the lizard's body when handling.
  • Avoid excessive handling, as it can cause stress.

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