Chico's Tacos is more than just a restaurant; it's an El Paso institution, a cultural marker, and a source of nostalgia for generations of El Pasoans. Founded in 1953 by Joe Mora, Chico's Tacos has become synonymous with El Paso's unique border identity, offering a singular culinary experience that defies easy categorization. From its humble beginnings as a side gig to its current status as a beloved chain with multiple locations, Chico's Tacos has woven itself into the fabric of El Paso's history and culture.
The Genesis of a Borderland Staple
The story of Chico's Tacos begins with Joe Mora, a local boxing promoter and jukebox mechanic. In 1953, Mora opened his first restaurant on Alameda Avenue, using a recipe he created as a teenager. With limited resources, Mora had to be creative, crafting simple and inexpensive meals for his younger siblings while his parents were at work. This necessity led to the creation of the now-iconic Chico's Tacos.
When Mora opened his first location, some people questioned the name, arguing that they were not tacos. Mora's response was simple: "Right, they're Chico's Tacos." This playful defiance reflects the restaurant's unique position in the culinary landscape, existing outside the boundaries of traditional Mexican or Tex-Mex cuisine.
The Menu: More Than Just Tacos
While Chico's Tacos is best known for its namesake dish, the menu also features other classic comfort foods. In addition to their legendary tacos, you can also get a hot dog on a hamburger bun topped with chili, mustard and pickles; burgers, burritos and grilled cheese. Don’t forget the crinkle cut fries.
Eating at Chico’s won’t break the bank - a single order with fries and a drink is under ten bucks - cash only but there’s an ATM onsite. There’s also a jukebox in the corner to honor Mora’s profession as jukebox mechanic.
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The Iconic Tacos: A Culinary Enigma
The star of the show at Chico's Tacos is undoubtedly the tacos themselves. However, these are not your typical tacos. They are technically flautas - rolled and deep-fried tortillas - served in a paper boat filled with a soupy tomato salsa and topped with shredded cheese. It is customary to pick up a taco individually from the special tomato sauce, then using a fork, scoop the melted cheese onto the taco before taking a bite. The most commonly ordered items are the single order (three tacos) or double order (six tacos).
This unique preparation has sparked debate and controversy over the years. Some traditionalists refuse to eat Chico's Tacos because they are not "authentic." Others embrace the dish for its unique, nostalgia-inducing flavor. As Dr. Richard Pineda, director of the Sam Donaldson Center for Communication Studies at the University of Texas at El Paso, puts it, "Chico's is a copy of nothing."
A Family Legacy
Joe Mora died in 1992, but his children have kept up the tradition. Emma Mora, the matriarch of the iconic Chico’s Tacos, may not have been a visible presence at the famed restaurant, but her dedication to raising her family allowed her husband to grow the business, making it one of the most beloved in El Paso. “She was solid as a rock, tough as nails," her son, Bernie Mora, said. "She had all kinds of things through her life that she dealt with, but always moved forward. She was very reliable, always gracious.”
One meal Bernie Mora said his mother never cooked was the signature dish from the famed Chico’s Tacos. “You can’t do it at home,” Bernie Mora said. “It’s a magic trick at the restaurants.”
Mora’s sons are running Chico’s Tacos locations, using the same recipes and business methods that their father did. “We still use the same approach and we haven’t changed anything,” Joe B. Mora said. “He knew what he was doing and it worked. The recipes and the menu haven’t changed since the first location opened in 1953.”
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Recognition and Controversy
Chico's Tacos has garnered recognition far beyond El Paso. The restaurant has been featured on the Food Network show The Best Thing I Ever Ate, and standup comedian Gabriel Iglesias mentioned Chico's in his 2009 Comedy Central special I'm Not Fat, I'm Fluffy. The restaurant was also honored by the 78th Texas House of Representatives in 2003, celebrating its 50th anniversary. It also made the list of 10 Best Places to Get Your Taco Fix on Cinco de Mayo by USA Today.
Despite its popularity, Chico's Tacos has also faced its share of controversy. In the late 2000s, the owners of Chico's Tacos sued an Austin-based restaurant, Chuco's Tacos, for trademark infringement. In 2008, a fire at the Montana Avenue location led to a "rebellion" by customers who refused to evacuate without their tacos or a refund.
In 2016, Chico's Tacos switched from a vegetable shortening-based imitation cheese to real cheddar, sparking outrage among some loyal customers. The change highlighted the deep connection El Pasoans have with the restaurant and its traditions.
Chico's Tacos and El Paso Identity
Chico's Tacos is more than just a place to eat; it's a symbol of El Paso's unique border identity. The city's population is predominantly Hispanic, but this designation encompasses a rich cultural mix. Many immigrants in El Paso consider themselves “real” Mexicans, and look down on Mexican Americans as “pochos,” a derogatory term for people who speak Spanglish.
Chico's Tacos transcends these divisions, offering a culinary experience that is uniquely El Pasoan. As Richard Mora Jr., Joe Mora's grandson, explains, "Joe [Mora] never intended for his small restaurant to be classified into a category."
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A Taste of Nostalgia
For many El Pasoans, Chico's Tacos is a taste of home, a reminder of childhood memories and family traditions. The restaurant's unique flavors and atmosphere evoke a sense of nostalgia that is hard to replicate.
"Chico's is all about nostalgia," says Dr. Richard Pineda. "It is the borderland exemplar of Proust's Madeleine cookies. In one bite, people flashback through their experiences in El Paso."
Locations and Legacy
Originally located at 4230 Alameda Avenue on El Paso's south side, Chico's has since expanded to four El Paso locations, including the original on Alameda and others on Dyer Street in Central, Montwood Drive and George Dieter Drive in East El Paso. It closed its Montana Avenue location in Central El Paso in 2016, and a location on McRae Boulevard in 2008.
Despite the changes and challenges it has faced over the years, Chico's Tacos remains a beloved institution in El Paso. Its unique tacos, affordable prices, and nostalgic atmosphere continue to draw crowds of loyal customers, making it a true culinary icon of the Sun City.