The Cecropia moth (Hyalophora cecropia) is North America’s largest moth, boasting a wingspan of 5-6 inches. These moths are east of the Rocky Mountains in the United States and Canada, often in open areas with trees. While the adult moths are beautiful, their adult stage doesn’t last long. The adult cecropia moth does not eat; its only purpose is to mate, and it only lives for a few weeks. Therefore, understanding the dietary needs of the caterpillar stage is crucial for successfully raising these impressive insects. This article delves into the specifics of what Cecropia moth caterpillars eat, offering guidance for enthusiasts looking to rear them.
Life Cycle and Instars
The Cecropia moth is strictly univoltine, meaning that they only have one full generation per year. The female cecropia moth lays rows of eggs on both sides of a leaf on a tree or shrub. The eggs, which look like they're glazed but are not sticky to the touch, hatch in 10-14 days. The caterpillars begin eating the host tree or shrub's leaves and even eat part of the egg shell before wandering off in search of food.
Caterpillars' skin doesn’t grow, so when they get too big for their skin, they shed it and expose a new, larger skin underneath. Each of these stages between shedding is called an “instar”. Caterpillars will go through five instars before making their cocoon. The skin of each instar is a little different. The caterpillars will need to start eating right away.
Host Plant Preferences
Cecropia caterpillars are known to feed on a variety of trees and shrubs. The cecropia caterpillar eats the leaves of many trees and shrubs. Some of the commonly accepted food sources include:
- Ash
- Birch
- Box elder
- Alder
- Elm
- Maple (Silver Maple)
- Poplar
- Wild cherry (Wild Black Cherry, Pin Cherry)
- Plum
- Willow
- Apple (Crabapple)
- Lilac
- Dogwoods
- Linden
- Elderberry
While they have a very extensive list of food plants, they will usually do best on plants that are a preferred choice in the area their parents came from. For example, some may thrive on Box Elder or Black Walnut, which are common species in certain regions. However, cecropia from other areas almost always become diseased when reared on these. It's also a good idea to know what their parents were reared on as they tend to have regional food preferences.
Read also: Feeding Giant Leopard Moth Caterpillars
Specific Regional Preferences
Different regional stocks of Cecropia caterpillars may exhibit preferences for specific host plants. For example, some stocks do best and get the biggest on Wild Black Cherry and Silver Maple. Most wild cecropia cocoons are found on the cherry.
Considerations for Rearing Cecropia Caterpillars
- Availability of Fresh Leaves: Ensure a consistent supply of fresh leaves from the preferred host plants. When the old leaves look wilted, put fresh leaves in. Usually, the caterpillars will move to the fresh leaves quickly, but check the wilted leaves before you throw them out to make sure you aren’t throwing out any caterpillars. To be sure no caterpillars are thrown out, put all the used leaves into a bucket - a clean 5 gallon plastic pail works well - along with some fresh leaves.
- Water Source: Caterpillars aren’t very smart about open water, and if the stems of the plants are in a jar of water, they may climb down the stems and drown. Access to the water can be blocked with a crumpled piece of waxed paper or plastic wrap stuck between the stems. Or you can put the water in a plastic container with a plastic lid.
- Enclosure Size: Smaller cages, like glass jars, should only be used if you’re raising one or two caterpillars. It’s better to use larger cages for larger numbers of caterpillars.
- Cleanliness: Caterpillars produce “frass” - droppings - which will need to be cleaned out. When the caterpillars are small, the frass will be small, but when they get larger, the frass will be larger and messier.
The Cocoon Stage
In August or the beginning of September, the caterpillars will be about as big as your thumb and ready to make their cocoons. The larva begins pulling several leaves into a little cluster around it, like blankets. The cocoon becomes more and more opaque over the next few days. The cecropia caterpillar continues to grow and becomes truly massive, over four inches long now, and thicker than a thumb.
The cocoon is a silk, water tight protective structure. Inside, the caterpillar has changed into a pre-pupa. In this stage, it can no longer walk or eat, although it can wriggle. The pupa is brown, and the antennae are clearly visible.
Overwintering and Emergence
This outdoor stage is very important - they need to go through a winter because it keeps them on the same schedule as the moths in the wild. The next spring, the moths will emerge sometime between early May and the end of June. The warmer the weather, the earlier the moths will emerge. If you’ve kept the cocoons in the refrigerator, put them outside once the weather starts to warm up - usually around the end of March. When it gets close to the right time for them to emerge, check the cocoons every day to be sure not to miss them. The moths will usually emerge in the middle of the day and spend the day pumping up and then drying their wings.
Identifying Male vs. Female Moths
Males have very large, feathery antennae. Female antennae are much thinner. If you have a male, release it when it gets dark. The job of the adult moths is to mate and lay eggs. The female moths don’t fly very far - they sit in one place and send out pheromones into the air to attract males. The mating pair will stay coupled for hours - often overnight. Release the male as soon as it gets dark.
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Read also: The Hoxsey Diet
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