Bolivian Rams (Mikrogeophagus altispinosus), also known as Bolivian Butterflys or Ruby Crown Cichlids, are a popular and peaceful freshwater fish that makes a beautiful addition to any community tank. Native to the Amazon River Basin, particularly Bolivia and Brazil, these cichlids bring a splash of color and personality to the home aquarium. Their elegant colors and peaceful temperament make them aquarium favorites, much like the butterflies of the fishkeeping hobby.
Bolivian Ram Basics
The generic name of Mikrogeophagus altispinosus is composed of three Greek roots: mikr, or small; geo, or earth; and phag, or eat (in other words, “small eartheater”), while the specific epithet refers to the elongated first ray of the dorsal fin and was created from two Latin roots: alt, or high; and spinos, meaning spiny. The species was originally described as Crenicara altispinosa. Later the fish was placed in the genus Apistogramma; however, as its morphology and spawning behavior are similar to M. ramirezi, it was moved to a new genus set up for that species. Some researchers believe this species to be more closely related to the genus Biotodoma than the Venezuelan ram, on account of some morphological details, namely the shape of the dorsal fin and the head, as well as the body coloration and the absence of a large spot on the third crossband (typical of Mikrogeophagus ramirezi). There is an interesting and complicated story connected with the genus Mikrogeophagus, as well. A well-known fish researcher, Frey introduced the genus Microgeophagus, and spelled it with a “c,” in 1957. In 1968 Meulengracht-Madsen introduced the name Mikrogeophagus, spelling it with a “k.” This led to a dispute among the scientists as to which of the two names was valid. You would expect that Mikrogeophagus would be considered a junior synonym of Microgeophagus, but it is the former name that wound up being judged valid.
Appearance and Lifespan
Bolivian Rams have an elongated oval body with a muted base coloration of tan or silver. Faded black stripes can be seen on many specimens, and a large vertical black stripe covers the head. The fins have some special color patterns as well. All Bolivian Rams have rayed fins. Rigid rays act as a defense mechanism against predators. The rays are sharp enough to pierce the inside of a predator’s mouth when swallowed! The dorsal fin features a small black stripe on the front. The rest of the dorsal fin is transparent. However, bright red edging provides a pop of color. The anal and pelvic fins have more subtle red tones. Large eyes, a characteristic snout reminiscent of a parrot’s beak, elongated anterior rays of the dorsal fin, a black eye stripe, and a black spot on the lateral line are the traits that dominate the appearance of these beautiful fish. It is also worth knowing that in a state of stress, six indistinct crossbands appear on the body of the fish; and during brood care the yellowish body color of the female, the black eye stripe, and the black lateral spot become very intense.
Bolivian Rams typically live for about 4 years, with their lifespan influenced by habitat and care conditions.
Sexual Dimorphism
Bolivian Rams are sexually dimorphic, meaning there are physical differences between males and females. Typically, females are a bit smaller than males. The typical Bolivian Ram size is around 3 inches in length when fully grown. On the other hand, female specimens usually don’t reach 3 inches at all. Males are slightly longer (10 cm, or 4 inches, in length) and slimmer than the females, which in turn are stouter and more rounded in the belly area. The mature males are very active and often display to the females, spreading their fins.
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Natural Habitat and Tank Setup
These cichlids live in Bolivia and Brazil. Known localities inhabited by this species lay in the catchment of the upper Rio Madeira (Bolivia). The fish are mostly found in shallow, sandy ponds with a temperature of around 27°C (81°F), a pH of 7 to 7.6, and a carbonate hardness below 100 mg/l.
To best care for Bolivian Rams, replicating their natural habitat in the aquarium is essential.
Tank Size
Even though they remain small in the home aquarium, they should be provided with a tank that is at least 29 gallons (110 liters). However, we recommend using a 30-gallon tank. You should definitely increase the tank size if you’re planning on keeping a larger community tank. While they are peaceful, every fish needs to have their own space. While it sounds paradoxical, larger aquariums are actually much easier to maintain. The water tends to be far more stable, and there is more room for error from the aquarist.
Substrate and Decor
It is vitally important that they are provided with a sand, or other small grain substrate. The Amazon River Basin is teeming with life. Start with a nice sandy substrate. Bolivian Ram cichlids are unique in the fact that they don’t like to disturb the substrate too much. It is also important to provide driftwood, caves, and flat rocks in their aquariums. Pieces of driftwood will be useful as well, providing the fish with refuge in the face of a threat. Also consider flat stones on which the fish will lay their eggs if the conditions are favorable. The waters are filled with natural plants. These plants act as a natural hiding spot for Bolivian Rams. Once your substrate is prepared, introduce live plants of varying sizes. Aquatic plants like Java Fern, Amazon Swords, Water Wisteria, and more are all great. Introduce some rocks and driftwood into the mix as well. Like plants, driftwood is a good place to rest and hide. We recommend creating some caves with rock is possible. Alternatively, you can invest in faux rock decor. Either way, those caves are a good place for your fish to lay eggs. When you’re arranging the tank, consider how the fish will swim. Also consider flat stones on which the fish will lay their eggs if the conditions are favorable. Plants would be a useful element in the tank setup, as these fish look great against the background of lush greenery. However, we should not forget to leave open space for swimming, as these are active fish.
Water Parameters
Bolivian rams need nearly perfect water conditions, and any aquarium containing them should be well filtered. The freshwater bodies they inhabit in the wild are relatively warm. We should not forget good filtration, and partial water changes should be made weekly to reduce the level of nitrates, which, in large concentrations, negatively influence the well-being of these dwarf cichlids and can even cause mortality in young specimens.
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- Temperature: 25° to 28°C (77° to 82°F).
- pH: 6.5 to 7.5
- GH: Below 10
- Carbonate Hardness: below 100 mg/l.
Filtration and Lighting
Perhaps the best choice for a filter is a hang on back filter, though they are also an excellent candidate for a canister filter. A standard filtration system will do. Whichever filtration method you choose, just make sure that it’s powerful enough to treat the tank efficiently. The fish are sensitive to high nitrate levels. You also need to make sure that the filter doesn’t create too much flow. Bolivian Ram Cichlids prefer light flow. The same goes for lighting.
Diet and Feeding
Bolivian rams are omnivores and mainly consume plant matter and small invertebrates in the wild. In their natural habitat, they feed by sifting through the substrate and you will often see a similar behavior in the home aquarium. In captivity, they do just fine on dry food. As far as feeding is concerned, the food should be small in size and varied; both live and dry foods are equally greedily taken. However, we should take care not to overfeed, as this species is voracious. Because they stick to the bottom and middle of the aquarium, stick to sinking pellets. While they prefer to feed from the substrate, they will also eat directly from the surface, and most will readily accept prepared fish foods. Their diet should also be regularly supplemented with frozen of live foods. We recommend feeding the fish multiple times throughout the day. Keep the meals small.
Tank Mates and Behavior
While they can technically be kept in a community tank, it is best if they are kept in a species only aquarium. They tend to be shy, and will often be out competed for food by more aggressive tank mates. To make them bolder it is advisable to include companion fish, such as species of the genus Apistogramma or small characins. Bolivian Rams are very peaceful fish. Usually, that aggressive behavior is only towards fish that get too close to the breeding area. Throughout the day, you’ll see your fish swimming around the open spaces and exploring hiding spots. Remember how we said that they don’t like to disturb the substrate too much while they search for food? They do this by swimming in short quick bursts. This allows them to kick up some substrate for sifting. They can search for food without digging like other fish species. While they are not a shoaling species, Bolivian Rams do appreciate the company of others. Aside from other Bolivian Ram Cichlids, you can introduce other peaceful fish into the aquarium. The only thing you need to consider is size. On account of their peaceful temperament they are the perfect inhabitants for community aquariums, and they can be confidently recommended to all novice enthusiasts of South American cichlids.
Breeding
If Bolivian rams are provided with soft water, and excellent water conditions, they will usually breed on their own. There doesn’t appear to be any specific breeding triggers, and a group of at least three males and three females should be kept together until they pair off. Breeding Bolivian Rams is a pretty straightforward process. But, they do require a lot of space. You don’t necessarily have to separate the fish for breeding, but we recommend it. Bolivian Rams are egg layers. You can start off by placing a bonded pair into a large tank. If you don’t have a bonded pair, you can get a large group of juvenile fish and let them pair off naturally. The female fish will usually start the breeding process by looking for a nice flat rock or cave to lay her eggs. Both males and females are involved in the parenting, and they will normally spawn on a flat rock in the aquarium. The male will engage in courtship behavior, which includes body movements, and rapidly moving his head back and forth. He will then begin to prepare the spawning area and will also create a shallow pit somewhere in the aquarium. Spawning At the time of spawning, the blunt genital papilla of the female becomes visible; the male’s papilla is more pointed. The courtship can last for a few days and consists of reciprocal lateral displays and mouthing the stones (or wood) where the eggs will subsequently be laid. When a suitable stone has been chosen, thorough cleaning commences, and then pits are dug around it in the sand, to which the larvae will later be transferred. During this time the male becomes very aggressive, so it is advisable to separate the pair from the rest of the fish with a divider placed crosswise in the aquarium. A few hours after the cleaning of the stone, the female begins the act of spawning with a few dry runs, while the male watches her keenly. Then the spawning process begins; the female lays the ovoid, light gray eggs, a few at a time, and they are immediately fertilized by the male. The spawning lasts for about an hour, and in this time around 100 to 300 eggs will be laid in a circle.
Egg and Fry Care
Once she’s done that, the male will fertilize the eggs externally. When the spawning is finished, the female takes the position over the egg plaque and fans it with her pectoral fins; that is, she uses one of them for fanning, and the other to maintain her position above the spawn. In the meantime the male protects the territory, but sometimes he relieves his partner for a few seconds. The eggs will be watched over by the female, who will fan the eggs and may occasionally start to cover them with substrate. New parents will occasionally consume their eggs after their first breeding, though they generally get it right on the second or third attempts. In about 2 to 3 days, the eggs will hatch. After about 48 hours (depending on the temperature) the larvae hatch from the eggs. Sometimes the female has to help extricate them from the egg shells, and then she will carry them in her mouth to a pre-dug pit. After another five to eight days the larvae become free swimming, and then they can be given freshly hatched Artemia and microworms. Water changes of 40 percent should be performed every other day, using water of the same physical and chemical parameters, as the hatch is sensitive to elevated concentrations of nitrates, which can lead to large losses. The parents are quite protective of the baby fish. They will put them in their mouths to transport them to other areas of the tank. You can feed the fry baby brine shrimp. When they’re about 7 days old, they can swim freely. At this point, the parents will lead the fry in large groups to go find food. The juveniles are very active, and the parents are not very good at protecting the territory. As a result the fry can easily become food for the other fish, which is another reason why it is advisable to separate them. They can be moved to another aquarium, or, as I have already mentioned, the parents with the young can be divided from the rest of the fish with a tank divider. After about six months, well-fed young fish will, on average, reach a length of 4 cm (1½ inches). This species usually lays its eggs on a hard surface (stone, wood, etc.), and only very rarely in pits dug in the sand. In soft water it is more prolific, and interestingly, it forms very strong monogamous relationships.
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Common Diseases and Prevention
Bolivian Rams are susceptible to diseases just like any fish. Ich is, for the most part, a byproduct of stress. It’s caused by poor water conditions or an uninhabitable environment. You can treat Ich in several ways. Some aquarists like to increase the water temperature to about 86 degrees for a bit to see if the fish heal. The most effective way to deal with freshwater diseases is to prevent your fish from getting them in the first place.