Oily skin, a common concern, presents challenges like shine and breakouts. However, with the right skincare, these issues can be minimized, revealing a healthier, clearer complexion. As skin matures, it requires a routine that balances oil control with anti-aging benefits. This article provides a comprehensive guide to crafting the perfect skincare routine for oily, aging skin.
Understanding Oily Skin and Aging
Oily skin is characterized by excess sebum production, leading to a greasy appearance, especially in the T-zone. It can also contribute to clogged pores, blackheads, and acne. Aging skin, on the other hand, experiences a loss of collagen and elastin, resulting in wrinkles, fine lines, dullness, and potentially enlarged pores.
Mature skin tends to become oily sometimes, which calls for a conscientiously curated skincare routine that equally addresses all skin concerns.
Why Skin Changes with Age
As people age, the skin tends to become drier due to certain intrinsic and extrinsic factors, says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and author Dr Jaishree Sharad.
Products crafted for ageing skin features emollient and humectant ingredients like hyaluronic acid, shea butter, ceramides and the likes, to ensure your skin receives adequate moisture and nourishment. Decreased sebum production and reduced skin cell turnover (the process by which old skin cells are shed and replaced with new ones) also contribute to dryness, informs Dr Jaishree Sharad. The skin contains natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) such as amino acids and urea, which help to retain water and maintain skin hydration. But, as we age, the skin’s NMFs levels decline, resulting in decreased moisture retention. This may cause the skin’s barrier function to also weaken, making it more susceptible to moisture loss and environmental damage. Also, decreased sebum production and reduced skin cell turnover (the process by which old skin cells are shed and replaced with new ones) also contribute to dryness. Hormonal fluctuations during menopause and other extrinsic factors like exposure to harsh weather conditions, UV radiation, pollution, and other environmental aggressors may cause the buildup of dead skin cells on the surface, says Dr Sharad.
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Can Mature Skin Become Oily Instead?
Characterized by enlarged pores, worsened texture, sagging, dryness and pigmentation and freckles, ageing skin can become oily due to a possible play of hormones, believes New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist and author Dr Kiran Sethi. Everyone’s hormones are different; very often, testosterone or another type of androgen is elevated in more mature skin, which could cause oiliness. But, it may not always be problematic. Dr Sharad believes that oily mature skin can be attributed to hormonal changes, poor skincare habits, genetics and lifestyle. During menopause, estrogen levels decrease, which can cause the sebaceous glands to produce more oil, leading to oil buildup, says Dr Sharad. Due to slowed down skin cell turnover, dead skin cells can accumulate on the skin’s surface, trapping oil there and contributing to a more oily appearance; environmental factors like humidity or spending time in heated or air-conditioned environments, can also affect the skin’s oil production. When the skin is dry, it may trigger a feedback mechanism where the sebaceous glands attempt to compensate for the lack of moisture by producing more oil, leading to an oily complexion. Lastly, a lot of potent anti-ageing ingredients like retinol, kojic acid and vitamin C have the propensity to dry out the skin. And thus, they can strip the skin of its natural oils, prompting the sebaceous glands to produce more oil to compensate for the dryness.
Key Ingredients for Oily, Aging Skin
Salicylic Acid: Helps unclog pores and prevent future breakouts. It also reduces pimples by decreasing swelling and inflammation and sloughing off dead skin cells.
Niacinamide: Known for its anti-inflammatory benefits and skin-smoothing effects. It helps balance oil production and refine pores.
Retinoids: Derivatives of vitamin A, retinoids improve skin tone, minimize fine lines and wrinkles, and prevent clogged pores.
Hyaluronic Acid: Hydrates the skin without adding shine. It binds moisture to the skin’s surface, providing long-lasting hydration.
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Vitamin C: A potent antioxidant that helps defend against free radicals, brighten the skin, and improve the appearance of fine lines and dark spots.
AHAs/BHAs: Exfoliating agents that remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and brighten the complexion.
Daily Skincare Routine: Morning and Night
A well-structured skincare routine is essential for managing oily, aging skin. Here’s a detailed guide for both morning and nighttime routines:
Morning Skincare Routine for Oily Skin
Cleanse: Use a gentle, foaming cleanser to remove excess oil and impurities without over-drying the skin.
Recommended Product: La Roche-Posay Effaclar Purifying Foaming Gel Cleanser.
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Esthetician Tip: Massage a small amount onto damp skin using gentle, circular motions. Focus on the T-zone and rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Avoid hot water.
Tone: Apply a toner to balance oil production, minimize pores, and improve skin texture.
Recommended Product: Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner.
Esthetician Tip: Apply the toner to a cotton pad and gently sweep it across your face and neck. Allow it to absorb fully.
Serum: Use a serum that combines niacinamide with prebiotics to regulate sebum production and minimize the appearance of pores.
Recommended Product: Allies of Skin Prebiotics Niacinamide Pore Refining Booster.
Esthetician Tip: Dispense a pea-sized amount onto clean fingertips and gently pat the serum into your skin, focusing on areas prone to excess oil.
Moisturize: Hydrate the skin with a lightweight, mattifying moisturizer that controls shine without clogging pores.
Recommended Products: IMAGE Skincare CLEAR CELL Mattifying Moisturizer for Oily Skin or BIOEFFECT Hydrating Cream.
Esthetician Tip: Gently massage a dime-sized amount onto the face and neck using upward strokes.
Sun Protection: Protect your skin from sun damage with a broad-spectrum sunscreen that offers a matte finish and won't clog pores.
Recommended Products: SkinCeuticals Physical Matte UV Defense SPF 50 or EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46.
Esthetician Tip: Ensure even coverage over all exposed areas of the face and neck. Reapply every 2 hours, especially when outdoors.
Nighttime Skincare Routine for Oily Skin
Cleanse: Use an oil-in-gel cleanser to effectively remove makeup, sunscreen, and impurities without stripping the skin.
Recommended Product: EltaMD Oil-in-Gel Cleanser.
Esthetician Tip: Apply the cleanser to dry skin and gently massage it onto your face and neck. Emulsify by adding water to create a milky texture. Follow up with a water-based cleanser for double cleansing.
Exfoliating Treatment: Incorporate a BHA liquid exfoliant to penetrate pores, remove excess oil, and smooth skin texture.
Recommended Product: Paula's Choice SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant.
Esthetician Tip: Start with a once or twice a week application to minimize the risk of irritation.
Retinoid: Use a retinoid treatment to target acne, regulate oil production, and improve skin texture.
Recommended Product: La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Retinoid Acne Treatment.
Esthetician Tip: Introduce the retinoid gradually, using a pea-sized amount every other night. Avoid using it on the same nights as other exfoliants.
Serum: Apply a serum that combines niacinamide with prebiotics to regulate sebum production and minimize pores.
Recommended Product: Allies of Skin Prebiotics Niacinamide Pore Refining Booster.
Esthetician Tip: Incorporate the serum after exfoliating to maximize its pore-refining benefits.
Moisturize: Use a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer to hydrate without greasiness and support skin health with antioxidants.
Recommended Product: SkinCeuticals Daily Moisture.
Esthetician Tip: Use the moisturizer as your final step to maintain balanced hydration without feeling heavy.
Optional Weekly Mask
Recommended Product: PCA SKIN Purifying Mask.
Esthetician Tip: Apply a thin, even layer to clean, dry skin. Allow the mask to dry completely (10-15 minutes) before rinsing off with lukewarm water. Use weekly to control excess oil and minimize breakouts.
Habits to Avoid
- Forgetting to blot away excess oil: Gently press blotting paper against your skin to absorb oil throughout the day.
- Skipping skin cleansing after exercise: Wash your face after exercising to remove sweat, oil, and dirt.
- Choosing the wrong products: Avoid products containing alcohol, cocoa butter, shea butter, and Vaseline.
- Skipping sunscreen: Always wear sunscreen with at least SPF 30.
- Overwashing: Stick to cleansing in the morning and at night, and after working out.
- Using grainy face scrubs: These can cause irritation. Opt for products with AHAs and BHAs instead.
Additional Tips for Managing Oily, Aging Skin
- Consider the oil cleansing method: Using lightweight oils can help lift sebum from the pores and reduce breakouts.
- Use non-comedogenic makeup: If you wear makeup, ensure it is non-comedogenic and apply it with clean brushes and hands.
- Consult a dermatologist: If OTC products don’t seem to be working, seek professional help. A dermatologist can provide personalized advice and treatment options.
Strike a Balance
It's important to maintain a balance between anti-ageing and oil-control properties when deciding on a skincare routine to ensure all your skin requirements are met, without overlooking any of its needs. Dr Sharad says, “It’s essential to tweak your routine to accommodate these variations in your skin’s oil production.” These variations are not vastly different from a skincare routine for dry and mature skin. While incorporating rich, emollient-based facial creams and anti-ageing ingredients like retinol, peptides, or bakuchiol remains unaltered for both skin types, the difference surfaces concerning boosting moisture versus controlling oil. And that is most prominently distinctive in the first step of a skincare routine-cleansing. “For dry and mature skin, a mild, soap-free cleanser that won't strip the skin of its natural oils is preferred; a non-stripping cleanser that removes excess oil and impurities without over-drying the skin is best suited for oily and mature skin,” says Dr Sharad. Additionally, although both skin types must indulge in chemical exfoliation to keep dead skin accumulation at bay, the concentrations and potency of the acids will differ for both skin types. Sharad recommends exfoliating dry, mature skin 1-2 times a week with milder acids, whereas exfoliation is a must daily for mature, oily skin. “It is essential [for oily skin] as it unclogs pores and removes dead skin cells. Gentle chemical exfoliants containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are ideal.” A balanced and healthy diet, rich in omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants, optimum water consumption and religious sunscreen application is paramount for ageing skin, regardless of the skin’s sub-type.