Dermaplaning has surged in popularity as a simple yet effective facial rejuvenation treatment. This minimally invasive procedure involves using a specialized blade to shave the uppermost layers of the face, removing dead skin cells and peach fuzz. The result is brighter, smoother, and more youthful-looking skin. While dermaplaning is generally safe for most skin types, some factors must be considered before trying it at home. To mitigate potential irritation, "oilplaning," using oil for dermaplaning, has emerged as a beneficial practice. This article dives deep into choosing the best dermaplaning oil for your skin type, discussing why it matters, what to look for, aftercare, and more.
Understanding Dermaplaning and Oilplaning
Dermaplaning involves using a sharp blade, or dermatome, to scrape the skin's surface, removing dead skin cells and peach fuzz. This exfoliation method offers several skin advantages, making it a popular choice for those seeking a more youthful look. Dermaplaning can smooth the complexion, remove peach fuzz, and even help with acne scars and dry skin.
However, the direct scraping of the blade can cause friction, potentially leading to redness, dryness, and minor cuts, especially when performed at home without professional expertise.
Oilplaning addresses this issue by creating a barrier between the blade and the skin's surface. Applying oil before dermaplaning lessens the friction, allowing the blade to glide over the skin. The oil lubricates and protects the skin during the treatment, softens hair and dead skin cells for easier removal, and penetrates the skin to provide nourishment.
Why Choosing the Right Oil Matters
Selecting the appropriate oil for oilplaning is crucial to avoid negative skin consequences. A heavy or comedogenic oil can clog pores and trigger breakouts, while an oil that is too light or not nourishing enough may not provide adequate protection and hydration. Each oil has varying properties that make it suitable for different skin types and concerns.
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The ideal oil should be naturally derived with simple ingredients to minimize the risk of irritation. Exfoliation can compromise the skin barrier, so avoiding heavily fragranced oils is essential. Opting for a non-comedogenic face oil is crucial, as these oils can be used on all skin types without clogging pores during or after dermaplaning. Furthermore, the face oil should possess nourishing and hydrating properties to restore moisture and protect the skin.
Identifying Your Skin Type
To get the most out of dermaplaning, it's essential to use oils suitable for your skin type, as some oils may work wonders for certain skin types but be too heavy or cause breakouts for others.
Oily and Acne-Prone Skin
An oily complexion is caused by sebum overproduction, leading to excess oil, breakouts, and inflammation. The best oil for dermaplaning oily skin is a non-comedogenic oil high in linoleic acid and low in oleic acid with a light texture. Grapeseed oil is fast-absorbing and an excellent choice for oily or acne-prone skin. Jojoba oil, with its similar structure to natural skin oils, is a gentle, non-comedogenic carrier oil that can also benefit oily skin.
Dry and Mature Skin
Dry skin results from a lack of moisture, making it prone to irritation, redness, and flaking. Dehydrated complexions also tend to look duller. The best oils for dry skin are rich in fatty acids and aid in the skin's lipid balance. Argan oil excels at hydrating the skin, while coconut oil acts as a protective sheet on the complexion. These oils are also beneficial for mature skin, which tends to be drier, thinner, and more prone to wrinkles, sagging, and dullness.
Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin is often due to an overactive immune system triggered by genetics, environmental factors, or medication, making it prone to inflammation, redness, and irritation. For sensitive skin, gentle and soothing oils are essential. Jojoba oil, due to its similarity to the skin's natural oil, is an excellent option for sensitive skin.
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Normal Skin
Normal skin is well-balanced, neither too dry nor too oily. The best oils for normal skin are lightweight, easily absorbed, and rich in antioxidants and nutrients. Jojoba oil and argan oil are lightweight options suitable for normal skin. Rosehip oil, packed with antioxidants and essential fatty acids, is also a great choice.
Best Oils for Dermaplaning
- Jojoba Oil: With its similarities to our sebum, jojoba oil is gentle enough for even sensitive skin.
- Squalane Oil: Squalane oil is a naturally derived lipid that mimics our skin's natural lipids.
- Argan Oil: Argan oil comes from the kernels of the Moroccan argan tree and is excellent for hydrating the skin.
- Rosehip Oil: Rosehip oil is extracted from the seeds of rose bushes and is overflowing with antioxidants and essential fatty acids.
- Grapeseed Oil: Grapeseed oil is fast-absorbing and great for oily or acne-prone skin. It can also lighten skin discolorations like acne scars.
Preparing for Dermaplaning
Proper preparation is critical to avoiding irritation and achieving optimal results from at-home dermaplaning. Always start with freshly cleansed skin, free of makeup, sunscreen, and debris. However, sensitive or dry skin types should avoid over-exfoliating to prevent damage to the skin barrier. It’s best to avoid using retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, vitamin C, and other potent actives in your skincare routine on the day you dermaplane. Patch testing is a must if you have sensitive skin or allergies.
Step-by-Step Guide to Oilplaning
- Cleanse: Start with a gentle cleanser to remove any debris and residue from the skin's surface.
- Apply Oil: Pat your face dry with a clean towel after cleansing. Apply a dime-size amount of oil into your hands and pat it onto your face. Using oil on dry skin first helps it spread and absorb better.
- Dermaplane: Use one hand to keep the skin stretched and taut. Hold the dermaplaning tool at a 45-degree angle, barely grazing the skin’s surface. Avoid digging in, as applying too much pressure can cause irritation. Use short, feather-light downward strokes, starting at the sides of the face near the temples. Overlap strokes slightly to cover all areas, and never go over the same spot more than 2-3 times. Take care around the delicate eye region, lips, and corners of the nose.
- Cleanse Again: After dermaplaning, gently cleanse your face immediately to eliminate any remaining debris and residue.
- Hydrate: Dermaplaning can leave your complexion a bit dry or sensitive, so use a hydrating serum or face oil to aid recovery.
- Moisturize: Follow up with hydrating serums or moisturizers since the barrier may be compromised.
Post-Dermaplaning Care
After dermaplaning, the skin becomes more sensitive to the sun’s harmful rays. It’s essential to use sunscreen after dermaplaning. Apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 sun product daily. For a week following dermaplaning, stick to a simple beauty routine that includes a gentle cleanser, hydrating serum, and daily sunscreen. It’s best to avoid using makeup right after the treatment to ensure pores don't get clogged and then resume your routine as normal the following day. Steer clear of harsh skincare products such as retinoids and glycolic acids, which can cause irritation, for at least a day after dermaplaning. Get plenty of rest and relaxation.
Tools and Techniques
Once you’ve selected the right oil and prepped your skin, it’s time for the actual dermaplaning. Specialized dermaplaning tools with a guarded design minimize nicks and cuts. Razors should have a single edge and a sharp, pointed tip to get into crevices around the nose and lips. Never share dermaplaning tools to avoid transferring bacteria.
When to Seek Professional Help
While largely safe for most, dermaplaning does require caution and care. Book an appointment with your dermatologist or esthetician promptly if you experience any unusual symptoms post-dermaplaning. Estheticians use medical-grade tools and specialized techniques to safely treat more complicated skin concerns.
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