Savannah Monitors ( Varanus exanthematicus) are popular mid-sized reptiles cherished by reptile enthusiasts. Their relatively simple habitat, feeding, and care needs, coupled with their potential for taming with regular handling and a lifespan exceeding 10 years, make them attractive pets. Native to the savannahs of sub-Saharan Africa, these monitors typically reach an adult size of 2.5 to 3 feet, starting at 6 to 10 inches as babies. This article provides a detailed guide to the diet of baby Savannah Monitors, incorporating expert insights and practical advice for optimal health and growth.
Understanding the Savannah Monitor Diet
Monitor lizards, belonging to the Varanus genus, have diverse dietary requirements. It is essential to research the specific needs of the particular monitor species being kept. While some species have very specific dietary requirements, others will eat nearly anything placed before them. In the wild, the staple diet of many monitor species is insects and other invertebrates. Savannah monitors are opportunistic carnivores in their natural habitat, consuming insects, invertebrates, small reptiles, amphibians, carrion, and small mammals. Recent studies have shown that presumed rodent eaters such as savannah monitors, actually consume mostly termites, millepedes, and scorpions.
Essential Dietary Components for Baby Savannah Monitors
Baby Savannah Monitors are primarily insectivores. According to experienced keepers, both juveniles and adults should be fed as many insects as they will eat daily. Variety and balance are key to a healthy monitor.
Insects
- Crickets: A staple insect.
- Dubia Roaches: Highly nutritious and easy to breed.
- Giant Mealworms: Offer in moderation due to their higher fat content.
- Earthworms: A good source of protein.
- Waxworms: Use sparingly as treats due to their high-fat content.
Additional Food Items
- Egg Whites: Boiled or cooked egg whites can be offered in small amounts.
- Fish: Small pieces of fish can add variety.
- Mazuri Carnivore and Insectivore Chow: Can be mixed for a balanced diet.
Foods to Avoid
- Wild-Caught Bugs: Avoid feeding wild-caught bugs due to the risk of pesticides, parasites, and diseases.
- Toxic Insects/Arthropods: Certain insects are toxic and should be avoided.
- Cat and Dog Foods, Hot Dogs, and Red Meat: Foods designed for other types of animals (or humans) should be avoided or fed sparingly.
Feeding Schedule and Amounts
- Hatchlings: Should be fed every day, focusing on gut-loaded insects.
- Savannahs Under 2 Years: Feed 3-4 times a week until they reach sexual maturity and roughly adult size.
- Adults: Feed 1-2 times a week depending on their body condition.
The Importance of Gut Loading and Supplementation
Gut Loading
Gut loading is the practice of making sure that feeder insects are well nourished and hydrated before feeding them to your pet. The easiest way to do this is by using water crystals and a commercial insect gutload formula. Gutloading is essential to ensure that the insects provide maximum nutritional value. For best results, feed insects for at least 48 hours before offering, and use a rotation of gutloads to create a varied diet.
Supplementation
Supplements are an essential part of any pet reptile’s diet, but this is especially the case for insectivores, since calcium supplementation is needed to balance the calcium:phosphorus ratio in captive-bred insects.
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- Calcium/Vitamin D3 Supplement: A calcium/Vitamin D supplement, such as Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 or Rep-Cal Calcium, should be sprinkled on insects daily. A high quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement should be used at every feeding.
- Multivitamin Supplement: A multivitamin supplement should be added to the calcium powder weekly. A multivitamin is highly recommended in the form of a powder that is designed specifically for reptiles.
Rodents and commercially made foods do not have to be dusted with supplements.
Hydration
Savannah monitors may be from a relatively arid climate, but that’s not a reason to dehydrate them. You will need a large water bowl in the monitor’s enclosure at all times. Provide a large, heavy bowl of fresh water daily. The bowl should be large enough for your Savannah Monitor to fully soak its entire body.
Feeding Methods and Considerations
Substrate Considerations
If the substrate is soil/sand or eco earth, there is no risk of feeding in the cage. It is a myth that Savannah Monitors cannot pass most substrates with no problem as long as they are properly hydrated.
Avoiding Cage Aggression
To avoid cage aggression, put the crickets in the cage when the monitor is in its hide or not paying attention.
Pre-Killed vs. Live Prey
It is widely accepted to feed only pre-killed rodents to monitors. Live mice and rats can easily injure the animal they are intended to feed, resulting in lacerations, infections, or abbesses.
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Enclosure Setup and Environmental Factors
- Enclosure Size: Young monitors can start in a 36”L x 24”W x 20”H enclosure, but will soon need to be moved to a larger enclosure - about double the size - 6’L x 5’W x 4’H.
- Substrate: Savannah Monitors need substrate deep enough for digging and excavating, packed tightly for maximum firmness.
- Temperature Gradient: Maintain a thermal gradient of 78° to 88° Fahrenheit for daytime; 72° to 80° F for nighttime and a basking area up to 110° F.
- Humidity: Relative humidity should always be above 60, preferably 70 and above.
Health and Veterinary Care
Collect the monitor's 1st poop and bag and tag it with the date and time and bring it to a vet who knows reptiles, especially monitors. Through that they will let you know if it has any type of endo-parasite (worms). Usually if they do have parasites their poop is EXTRA stinky and it's not properly digested, i.e. cricket heads, legs, you get the picture. A fecal exam should be done as soon as you get a new buddy especially if the genus/species is 95% imported, even if its a CBB.
Addressing Common Misconceptions
A common misperception about savannah monitors is that they need bird and mammal prey as a regular part of their diet.
Rodents in the Diet
Mice and rats are generally considered to be too high in fat for most captive, exercise-deprived monitors. Keepers who choose to raise their monitors on a rodent-only or mostly rodent diet should be encouraged to avoid unweaned mice, as they have little or no calcium, and are fairly deficient in other vital nutrients. It should be noted that rodents are not a completely bad food source. In fact, they are an important part of a balanced diet. Adult monitors may also eat frozen/thawed pinkie mice. Pieces of cooked chicken or small mice can be occasionally offered as a treat for enrichment as well as training in some individuals.
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