The world of skincare can be overwhelming, with countless products promising miraculous results. Understanding the ingredients that make up these formulations is crucial for making informed choices and achieving your desired skin health goals. This article delves into the components commonly found in Aspect Doctor Skincare, offering insights into their function and benefits.
The Foundation: Basic Ingredients
Water (Aqua): The most prevalent ingredient in cosmetics, water serves as a solvent, dissolving other ingredients and creating the desired texture. The water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized to remove mineral ions.
Glycerin: A natural component of the skin, glycerin is a humectant, attracting moisture to the skin and enhancing hydration. Its low molecular weight enables it to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, improving the skin barrier and protecting against irritants and bacteria.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: Derived from coconut oil and glycerin, this ingredient is a skin-softener, emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It helps prevent moisture loss, thickens product formulas, and facilitates even application by dissolving clumping compounds. Despite being derived from coconut oil, research does not support the assumption that it clogs pores.
Butylene Glycol: This multi-tasking ingredient functions as a solvent, penetration enhancer, slip agent, and humectant. It aids in the absorption of products, ensures smooth application, and attracts moisture to the skin. Butylene glycol is approved by Ecocert and commonly used in natural products.
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Dimethicone: Depending on its viscosity, dimethicone has various properties. It is unlikely to cause irritation as it is not absorbed into the skin.
Emollients and Moisturizers: Soothing and Hydrating Agents
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil: A non-fragrant emollient derived from sunflower seeds, this oil softens the skin and helps it to create ceramides, which are vital for repairing the skin barrier. Rich in fatty acids and vitamin E, sunflower seed oil moisturizes the skin, promoting a rejuvenated and smoother appearance. Indigenous cultures of North America traditionally used sunflower oil for moisturizing skin and hair.
Cetearyl Alcohol: A mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol functions primarily as an emulsifier, preventing the separation of oils and liquids in a product. It can also thicken formulas and create foam. As an emollient, it soothes and hydrates the skin by trapping moisture. Studies indicate that cetearyl alcohol is non-toxic and non-irritating. It is typically derived from plant oils like palm, vegetable, or coconut oils.
Stearic Acid: A fatty acid that acts as an emollient, emulsifier, and texture enhancer. It softens the skin, aids the skin's protective barrier by preventing water loss, and enhances product texture by adding volume and stabilizing water and oil ingredients. Sources include animal or vegetable fats/oils such as coconut or shea.
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter: A plant lipid extracted from the fruit of the Shea Tree, shea butter is an effective skin hydrator and emollient. It forms a protective film on the skin, trapping moisture and keeping it hydrated, thus soothing dry or itchy skin. Rich in antioxidants and fatty acids like stearic acid and linoleic acid, it helps replenish the skin and maintain moisture levels.
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Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil: Extracted from macadamia nuts, this oil is rich in fatty acids, including oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, and palmitic acid. Palmitoleic acid can soothe inflammation and promote wound healing.
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil: Derived from sweet almonds, this non-fragrant oil is a rich source of vitamin E, healthy fats, vitamins, and minerals. Its emollient properties soften and hydrate the skin by creating a moisture-trapping barrier. It also possesses antioxidant properties.
Panthenol: Also known as pro-vitamin B5, panthenol moisturizes the skin by attracting and holding water. It possesses anti-inflammatory and skin-protecting properties and can reduce irritation caused by other ingredients.
Emulsifiers and Thickeners: Maintaining Product Integrity
Ceteareth-20: An emulsifier and cleansing agent derived from cetearyl alcohol. It prevents oil and water from separating and acts as a surfactant, gathering oil, pollution, and dirt for removal.
Carbomer: A polymer of acrylic acid used to create a gel consistency in products. Most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
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Xanthan Gum: A commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. It is a natural polysaccharide produced from glucose and sucrose via fermentation.
Sclerotium Gum: A big sugar molecule (polysaccharide) that is used as a natural thickening and gelling agent. It is similar to more commonly used Xanthan Gum, and the two are also often combined to create gel formulas or to stabilize emulsions.
Lecithin: An amino acid-based emulsifier that helps water and oil to mix and stay that way. It is considered as natural, environmentally friendly, and hypoallergenic.
Preservatives: Ensuring Product Longevity and Safety
Phenoxyethanol: A preservative with germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. It prevents microbial growth and has a scent similar to that of a rose. It is often used with caprylyl glycol to preserve product shelf life.
Potassium Sorbate: A preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. Derived from potassium salt and sorbic acid, it is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
Sodium Benzoate: A preservative used in cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically and approved for use by the US FDA and EU Health Committee.
Ethylhexylglycerin: Commonly used as a preservative and skin softener. It is derived from glyceryl and often paired with other preservatives like phenoxyethanol to increase their effectiveness.
Antioxidants: Protecting Against Environmental Damage
Tocopheryl Acetate: Also known as Vitamin E, it is an antioxidant that protects the skin from free radicals, which damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract: Derived from rosemary, this extract contains antioxidants such as rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid. Rosemarinic acid can soothe skin conditions like eczema and acne.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C. It has skin penetration abilities and may be able to provide wrinkle-reducing benefits.
Specialized Ingredients: Targeting Specific Skin Concerns
Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3: A peptide.
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil: Derived from the seabuckthorn berry, this oil contains carotenoids, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, and vitamin E. It helps hydrate and nourish the skin and may help with alleviating UV damage due to its anti-inflammatory properties.
Dextran: A sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.
Alcohol Denat: Alcohol with some additives to make it unconsumable. It is great solvent, penetration enhancer, creates cosmetically elegant, light formulas, great astringent, and antimicrobial.
Niacinamide: A multi-functional skincare superstar that has clinically proven anti-aging, skin lightening, anti-inflammatory and barrier repair properties.
Glycolic Acid: A superstar AHA that not only exfoliates skin but is also a very good moisturizer.
Biosaccharide Gum-1: A sweet tasting sugar substitute that helps your skin to hold onto water when used in cosmetic products. A so-called exopolysaccharide (high-molecular-weight polymers) secreted by a microorganism living in hydrothermal deep vents.
Disodium EDTA: A chelating agent that neutralizes metal ions in a product, enhancing stability and aiding other preservatives.
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch: If you ever wondered what those little Listerine breath strips were made of, you found your answer! It dissolves in water and can make a thin, elastic, and moisture-absorbing film when spread on the skin that can cause an instant tightening effect. It can also be used as a thickener to get a silicone-like feel and can be used in peel-off masks.
Other Ingredients
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil: Comes from the ylang-ylang flower. Ylang-ylang oil has slight antibacterial, antioxidant and antifungal properties. However, it also contains a number of sensitizing ingredients such as geraniol, limonene, linalool and benzyl benzoate.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil: The essential oil coming from the rind of the orange.
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil: The essential oil coming from the rind of the lemon.
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